Question about Refrigerators
Hello Grant, The easist way to determine just where the problem with the ice maker is, is by doing some preliminary work to zero in on the core problem. By doing this, we can be sure of the faulty part, or if the entire ice maker is due for replacement.
Let's start with pouring some water into the ice maker and see if it freezes and ejects into the ice bin. Please empty the ice bin so you can tell when/if the ice maker cycles and drops the ice into the bin.
Also, as you well know, make sure the "bin full" auto shut off arm is in the down position, so the ice maker will operate. If after a couple of hours the ice does drop into the bin, check to see if the water has frozen and if the eject arm with all the little "fingers" is trying to push the ice out of the cube tray. If the little fingers are resting against the ice cubes and the ice isn't getting ejected, the small defroster built into the ice maker has failed and you'll need to replace the ice maker.
If the ice cubes are getting ejected, check to see if any water was dispensed into the ice maker. If not, check to see if the water inlet line might be frozen by shining a flashlight into the water funnel to see if you can see any ice build up. If you do, the line is frozen and the fastest way is to manually defrost the fridge/freezer to get the water flowing again. If it is not frozen, it could still be a frozen water inlet line, just the frozen section could be inside the freezer wall.
Now you'll have to pull the fridge out and get to the backside for the next steps. Start by looking at the water line going into the freezer, is it visibly frozen, hard to tell, so you'll have to remove the water line from the back of the fridge/freezer (the one that goes up to the freezer section) and lets see if any water flows out of it. Cycle the ice maker, lift the ice maker arm and lower it to start another cycle. You'll need a bucket and some towels to get any excess water that (hopefully) flows out the line when the ice maker calls for water.
If you don't get any water flowing at all, it is very likely a faulty water inlet valve and you'll have to replace that. If you get water flowing and shutting off, then we're back to a frozen water line and you need to manually defrost the entire fridge/freezer to get the line thawed and working again. grab some coolers and load them up, and shut off the fridge and leave all doors open for 6-8 hours to fully thaw it out.
The water inlet valve is located at the lower rear of the unit and you'll have to take off the access panel (unplug the fridge from the wall outlet and turn off the water supply valve). It's a good idea to take some pictures with your camera phone or digital camera of the set-up before you start, so you'll have a reference of where everything goes.
Remove the screw(s) that hold the water inlet valve on the frame and disconnect the water lines (mark them as to where they go - picture time again) and remove the old valve and install the new one.
These steps should help you zero in on the cause of the faulty ice maker and get you running again.
If you can get the complete model number of your fridge, you can get a free line drawing and parts list for it by going to:
It is very helpful to have the line drawings as it shows where all the parts are located in the fridge and freezer.
Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!
Posted on Nov 18, 2009
Hello. I can assist you. What you will find upon close examination is that the water in the supply line to your ice maker has frozen. Use a blow dryer to thaw out that supply line and you will be all set. Thanks for using fixya!
Posted on Nov 18, 2009
The power outage could have fried the emitter boards that tell your ice make to make ice. Open the freezer door and look on the right side of the freezer where you turn the i/m on and off. If the little light flashes twice then pauses, its great. Now hold down the flapper on the left side of the freezer, make sure not to block the hole. Does the light turn solid on the right. If it's on,then its ok. If either of these tests fail, you probably have a faulty emitter board. If those function properly, then most likely your i/m needs to be replaced.
Thanks for contacting fixya.com
Posted on Nov 18, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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