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My lochinvar boiler is very slow coming up to temperature and turning off,runs almost continuously,it is running infloor heat,thank you

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It sounds like your by-pass is shut tight and is forcing more water through heater than the heater will handel. You should open your by-pass 10-20% so the water moves slower through the heater and has more time to heat up.

Posted on Nov 27, 2009

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Taco 007 circulating pump stays on even though boiler shuts down


Don't know your specific unit, but in general, heating systems are two-stage devices:

1: Its too cold: the motorised HW/CH valve moved to the required position, and on achieving it, the circulaion pump starts and the boiler is enabled. (The circ pump may start immediately - its not usually important.) The hot water from the boiler circulates through the heat exchanger and/or radiators until the thermostat thinks its target is warm enough, whereupon it disables the boiler, stops the pump and closes/relaxes the valve(s).

2: The boiler is off while disabled. When enabled, it heats the circulating water to a 'high' temperature and seeks to keep it there. If it reaches that temperature, the boiler will cycle on and off as necessary to maintain the set 'high' temperature. (The circulation pump must run all the time the boiler is enabled.) This may be what you're noticing. Additionally, some boilers will run the circulation pump for a little while after being disabled to reduce the temperature if the water in the pipes and boiler.

Your question doesn't say how the pump running corresponds to thee thermostat settings, but if it were stuck on, I think you'd know!

Dec 31, 2016 | Water Heaters

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The extra benefit of a Modulating Boiler


You're looking to install a new hot water boiler or replace your existing boiler. You come across something called a "modulating" boiler. You wonder what on earth that means. I will attempt to explain some of the features of a modulating boiler.

How nice would it be if you could have your boiler make just enough heat to keep your house warm and nothing more? Your thermostat tells your boiler that you need heat in the house. The boiler starts up and heats the water that runs through the pipes to heat your house. The water does not heat up to temperatures that are more than just warm. But you notice that the temperature in your house is staying right where you want it to be.
This boiler is no ordinary boiler. It knows what the temperature is outside and varies your water temperature to make just the heat needed to keep you comfortable. The modulating boiler also runs much more then a normal boiler would but you can see by your gas bill that you are getting great efficiency from this thing.

The feature that makes this wonder so great is that it has the ability to vary the fire that heats the water up and down so that the water temperature stays precisely where the computer brain in the boiler wants it to be. This temperature is figured by measuring the outdoor temperature and changing the water temperature based on that. The colder the weather is outside, the hotter the water is going through your system.

With a system like this you will notice that your heat will run longer and still not cost anymore money. This makes you more comfortable. The modulating boiler will give you just enough heat to keep you warm without wasting much of the heat that a normal boiler would. This type of furnace will give you the most efficient heating possible on any given day.

Before buying a new heating system or replacing your old hot water boiler make sure that you check into a system that will modulate the fire and also vary your heating water temperatures according to the outdoor temperatures. This will save you money and give you a very comfortable heating system.

on Dec 08, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Wickes 102 combi boiler constantly loosing water pressure


It sounds like your thermostat could be the problem. Have you noticed the boiler cutting off at all, or does it run continuously until it goes out on low water?

You stated, "when boiler is on", so I am wondering how you get the boiler on. If your boiler is controlled by a thermostat, you need to check it for a cold draft possibly from behind the thermostat in the wall where the wires come through. The thermostat should never be on an outside wall. The thermostat could be defective.

An aquastat can also control your boiler. If you have an aquastat, check the setting, typically 175 - 180 degrees. You should also have a "high limit" which should be set at 210 - 220. Some people run that high side limit higher; not a good idea - defeats the purpose. If the aquastat is set too high, the boiler will operate too hot and the problem you have will occur.

"pressure rises and pressure relief valve opens" This could mean that your pressure switch is prematurely venting. Check boiler temperature to see exactly at what temperature the T&P valve purges. If it blows off below the high side setting, either adjust or replace. The T&P valves are usually not adjustable. That blow off temperature is stamped on the head of the valve. So, if it discharges too soon, replace it.

Have you actually seen evidence thgat the T&P valve is opening? You may have a bad bladder in your expansion tank and your system may have air in it. Your boiler should have 12 psi when cold and 20 - 22 psi when operating. Check your boiler pressure guage.

"
this eventually drops below the minimum operating pressure" Technically, there is set point for a NO MINIMUM OPERATING PRESSURE. That is a function of the amount of water in the boiler. If the T&P is blowing off, it will vent water from the boiler and the boiler pressure will go down. There is a minimum operating TEMPERATURE.

Your boiler could be low on water. You will have to manually fill the boiler. Be careful of thermal shock to the boiler. Feel the piping, and fill only when the circulator is running. Make sure the water is not going directly into the boiler. The supply water should go into the circulating supply side which feeds the radiators, radiant floor, or base board circuits.

All this will adversely affect your hot water. The heat exchanger for the potable hot water may have scale build up in it. Using the hot water keeps the boiler running, and a scaled heat exchanger will give you cooler hot water and the boiler keeps running. If this is a problem, you will need to replace the heat exchanger. A better idea is to not use the boiler for your domestic hot water. Why run the boiler in the summer?

Feb 02, 2013 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Came home after a weekend away and central heating not working. Programmer not turning heating on (honeywell st6400c) but the boiler (a sentima ht 60l) looks like it has a fault. The mains light us on but...


Possible cause of lockout: boiler low water level. If you have a combination temperature/pressure gauge, it should read approximately 12 psi when the boiler is cold. When it runs, it will be approximately 22 psi. If the pressure is low feel the inlet water supply piping. Open the manual feeder valve. The cold water coming in will verify that there is no obstruction to the water flow. You may have "dirt" in the line. You may have a defective water pressure valve or check valve. Another thought. Make sure your AIR SEPARATOR is functional. Remove the cap and depress the valve. You should see water. If air comes out, continue to"bleed" the AIR SEPARATOR. You may haven't to replace the A/S.

Jan 28, 2013 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Water to hot for gas boiler boiler gos off


It could be dyslexia, but I think you want to know what may be wrong with your boiler in this case!
This is a VERY old design. The diaphragm is on the water section, this operates a switch to turn ON the pump, and a further device causes the diverter valve to divert boiler water from CH duty to HW duty.
From your description it appears that the boiler is shutting down on internal boiler water temperature (too high), your 'briefly too hot' HW symptom may be caused either by the boiler side of the secondary heat exchanger being blocked/caked in sludge, OR the DHW side of it being scaled. Either way a new or replacement (descaled) secondary heat exchanger MAY inprove things. It's not easy on these old clunk-pots, and EVERY disturbed seal will subsequently leak, so get a good supply of o-rings and fibre seals before you start ("you" being the competant fitter you employ)

Dec 20, 2012 | Water Heaters

2 Answers

I have just had a new boiler fitted and wanted to run the thermostat (honeywell cm921) on auto, the electrician set the timer to come on at 1 & off at 2 disabled at 3 & 4 and on again at 5 and off...


Complicated because I need more info....but in General a Boiler should not be on a Programmable Thermostat as it takes too long to heat etc...do you have Radiators in your house???Or ductwork for heat???It will make a difference...if you put the boiler on a program it may come on anyway as some boilers maintain there own internal temperature regardless of the thermostat.....if you want to run it on a program adjust the temperatures so there is only about a 2 degree swing....70...down to 68....back to 70.....etc...there should also be a switch in the thermostat to set for Boiler...or Electric heat...make sure that switch is on...otherwise its difficult to give you a more conclusive answer

Nov 11, 2009 | Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Heater

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