Question about Mitsubishi WS-55809 55" Rear Projection Television

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Please post instuctions for convergence chips for ws-55809

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Mitsubishi convergence IC replacement: this applies to sets that use (2) STK-392-570

The Idea here is to get the Middle Circuit board out so you can replace the Convergence Ic’s.


HERE is what you will need: (most of this you can buy on the internet or at local electronics stores)

Two new: STK-392-570 CONVERGENCE IC’S
One good soldering iron
Solder
De soldering braid or wick
Liquid flux
Heat sink compound (grease)
Denatured alcohol
One short Philips screwdriver
One small clean toothbrush
One electric screw gun to REMOVE screws

Turn the set on and examine the picture for how the Convergence looks bad---when you are done examine it again---once in a great while you will get and install a new IC that is bad. Remember this when you have finished—if the convergence is still bad but different from what you started with you may have installed a new I.C. that was bad. Turn the Set off.


  1. Unplug set.
  2. Remove back cover.
  3. Remove front speaker grill and inspection plate behind it.
  4. Remove the 2 or 3 black screws that go thru the back edge of the plastic frame that hold the chassis down.
  5. Where all the video and audio jacks are on the right edge of them you will see a diagonal plastic (Black) remove the two brass screws from the outside edge, remove another to the right bottom and a third smaller screw forward and to the left; remove plastic piece and all four screws and set them aside.
  6. Look carefully at main board in center of the set.
  7. You will find a number of screws hold it into the plastic frame.
  8. Towards the left back edge of this (to the right of the plastic you removed) you will find a metal cover with a small screw on either end. It has a lot of round holes punched in it.
  9. Remove both screws and pull the shield up and off---remove the board beneath it by releasing the two tabs on the bottom right side and pulling the board out—handle it with care as it is the digital convergence board that stores the set’s memory of adjustments. Set it aside
  10. At this point you need to pull the entire Chassis back at least a few inches---If it does not slide back look for a plastic latch on either side near the front of it. Some sets have the latches on the left or right side—black plastic tabs that lift up.

Posted on Nov 18, 2009

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    1. Usually
      the board has 2 screws in the front and rear corners of the board and one
      almost dead center in the middle of the board---make sure you get all of
      them out before you remove the board.

    2. When
      you removed the back there was a diagonal board that slides out just below
      the lens; pull it out and it will give you more room to continue.

    3. There
      are a number of plugs on the board.
      Some of these sets have a small circuit board located at the very
      front of the middle board with plugs going into in, release the tabs at
      the bottom and pull the board up and out of your way. Now you should see 5 white fold over
      plugs---three on the left edge and two on the right---do not touch them
      yet.

    4. With
      the little board(if your set has it) out, unplug the several plugs at the
      front edge of the board(they are all idiot proof---different number of
      pins so you cannot put them in the wrong place) and are marked with
      letters that are also marked on the board.
      There is another 2 wire plug mid way to the right side of the
      board.

    5. Now
      the Tricky part: the 3 ivory color plugs on the left side that fold over
      and 2 more on the right side. You
      need to do this carefully---with a small flat bladed screwdriver pull up
      on one end until each comes loose(the reason we removed the board under
      the shield and the plastic piece (there usually is also a plug under it
      that you need to unplug) is to make this part more easy.

    6. Once
      you have all 5 of these lifted up and out of the way check to make sure
      you have not left any plugs still attached to the board.

    7. Pull
      the entire chassis back as far as you can get it (you may have to release
      wires on either side of the set from the plastic ties that bundle
      them---take your time).





    Note the very large metal Heat
    sink in the middle board towards the front; if you look from the front of the
    set thru the inspection plate you will see both IC’s with a metal plate that
    runs across them from left to right----there are three screws to remove
    here---two ways to get them out: you can remove them from the front of the set
    or what I do is use a short Philips and get them from the back by touch. Get all three out and remove the metal plate
    and set all aside.






    1. From
      the back of the set slide the chassis as far back as you can. There are 3 more screws on the front
      edge of the heat sink that hold it to the board and the middle one has a
      wire with a connector on it. This
      is the reason you need to get the chassis back; the screws are identical
      to the others and go thru the circuit board into the frame where it is
      mounted.

    2. You
      should now be able to lift the entire Heat sink from the set (sometimes
      you may need a putty knife to break the two IC chips loose from it) Set it
      aside and look the board over to make sure you have not missed any of the
      identical brass colored screws.
      Move any plugs clear of the board.
      There are 2 or 3 tiny plastic tabs at the front edge of the board;
      push them and lift the board up from the frame---do it slowly and if you
      missed any screws you will find it binds somewhere. The board lifts up front and is tucked
      into notches on the back side---Once it is clear of the plugs remove it
      from the set. You are halfway
      home.

    3. With
      the board removed look at the dozen or so light blue resistors right in
      front of the two STK IC’s; if any of them look somewhat white in the
      middle you need to replace them—they are all 3.9 ohm and you can check
      them with a multi-meter just like checking a fuse-I usually check them all
      even if they look good (saves having to pull the board out a second
      time). They are protection in case
      some part of the two IC’s short. If
      the resistors are all good you need to un-solder both of the STK’s.

    4. With a
      good soldering iron use a braided wick (called a de-solder braid—radio
      shack has them) and to make it easier use some liquid flux---most
      electronics stores sell this. These
      sets all use lead free solder and it may not be easy to unsolder without
      the flux put on it first.




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    1. Once
      you have unsoldered both and removed them take some denatured alcohol with
      a tooth brush and clean the bottom of the board where the STK’s were
      soldered in—this gets all the flux and any tiny solder specs out of the
      way. Let the board dry for a minute or so and look at it carefully---if
      you have to, use the de-solder wick again and clean up any solder on the
      board where the IC’s came thru—clean again with alcohol if you need to—the
      cleaner the surface the better and faster the new solder will attach.









    1. Install
      each of the new IC’s one at a time---make sure all the pins are straight
      or you will have problems getting them in—with one in place hold it and
      turn the board over and solder the pins at either end to keep it there; AT
      THIS POINT APPLY MORE SOLDER FLUX TO ALL THE PINS BEFORE YOU SOLDER THE IC
      IN! Straighten it if you did not
      get it upright and finish soldering all the pins. When you are done repeat this with the
      second IC and then with a good light take a very close look at all the
      pins to make sure they are all soldered and not touching another pin. You can also use the denatured alcohol
      again to clean all the pins on the two IC’s you just soldered.

    2. With
      both IC’s soldered install the circuit board back into the set---back edge
      first into the notches at the back of the plastic frame---make sure you do
      not hang up on any plugs or connectors; with the front edge of the board
      gently push down until the tabs on the front edge engage—the board must be
      perfectly straight to go in correctly.

    3. With a
      putty knife remove all the old white grease from the heat sink
      (careful—this stuff stains hands or clothing) and clean the heat sink with
      denatured alcohol. You are now ready to attach many of the plugs back to
      the board; you will find if you do it now it is easier to reach them with
      the heat sink removed---put all of the main plugs back and leave the fold
      over plugs for last. If you had the
      model with the small plug in circuit board on the front of the main
      board—install it after you have installed the plugs in front of it.

    4. A note
      about the 3 plugs on the left edge and the two on the right edge---you
      have to be careful when you snap them back in---sometimes one of the metal
      pins will lift up when you do this---hold your fingers down and apply even
      pressure---if you see any metal pin sticking up a little use a fine flat
      bladed screwdriver and carefully push it back down into the plug.

    5. Presuming
      you have now installed the board and have ALL the plugs back in place,
      slide the chassis back until the latches engage---any wires or cables you
      moved to get room you should now put back into the plastic hold off that
      contained them—clean up!

    6. Before
      you install the heat sink back, apply heat sink grease (important and you
      can get it at almost any electronics supplier that sells the liquid Flux
      and solder) This grease is the reason the original IC’s failed—after
      several years it dries out and an IC cannot move the heat fast
      enough---the grease is for quick transfer of heat from the IC to the metal
      heat sink.

    7. Now:
      if you used an electric screw gun to remove screws---do not use it to put
      them back—it is very easy to crack and damage the board if you use a screw
      gun and to strip the screws that go into the heat sink.

    8. Place
      the greased heat sink back in position and attach the 3 screws that hold
      it to and thru the board---I find starting all three and then tightening
      them by hand works best; don’t forget to put the wire with the grommet
      back to the middle screw.

    9. Replace
      the metal plate that goes across the chips and hold it in place until you
      get the middle screw back in (it has tabs that engage into little
      holes) once you get all three of
      the plate screws back in tighten them
      down firm (they hold the IC’s tight to the heat sink).

    10. With
      the heat sink installed, install the board on the left side back by
      plugging it in and install the metal box over it and the screws front and
      back by hand.

    11. Check
      that you have all the plugs you removed plugged back in.




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    1. Replace
    all the screws that hold the board into the plastic frame.


    2. Install
    the diagonal plastic piece you removed and by hand replace the 4 screws that
    hold it in place.


    3. Take
    a good look now to make sure all the plugs are back in place and installed
    correctly.


    4. Slide
    the entire Chassis back into place.


    5. Before
    you replace the screws that hold the chassis down (usually 2 or three long
    screws) turn the set on and see what you have----if it comes on and looks
    fairly normal you are ready to proceed.


    6. Replace
    the slide board (diagonal) you removed and wipe the three large lens with a
    lens cloth or clean with a paper towel with glass cleaner sprayed on it---if
    the lens are dusty the picture will be a bit darker and dull looking. Don’t worry about the mirror, it usually is
    ok.


    7. If
    the set has come on and looks ok, replace the long screws that anchor the
    chassis and put the back cover on the set.


    8. At
    this point you have two choices---you can go into the customer menu and select
    CONVERGENCE---there will be detailed instructions on screen for the center and
    fine adjustments---MOST Mitsubishi sets need to have the convergence adjusted
    in the regular and then in the HD mode---go to a HD channel if you have HD
    signal and adjust the convergence there.


    9. There
    is a TECHNICAL mode where you can do this but it requires knowing a number
    sequence by MODEL number---it adjusts just like the customer mode but IT SAVES
    THESE ADJUSTMENTS INTO THE SET’S MEMORY.
    Adjusting in the customer menu may not save the adjustments—if the set
    gets unplugged it will go back to whatever it was before. In the Technical mode you enter by pushing
    MENU and a 4 digit number code for the model you have and then pushing enter,
    you exit by pushing HOME on the remote twice—all this is done with the original
    Mitsubishi remote—you need to have an original working remote for this.


    10. If you were
    careful and lucky all went well and you now have a working set. The two new
    IC’s should be good for 3 to 5 years and many go 8 years.


    11. If you had
    any problems recheck everything you did in the process to make sure you missed
    nothing----take your time and usually it works fine.




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etower.766@netzero.net


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