I just installed a new piston and cylinder on a stihl 026. It seemed to go well, but the piston gets stuck at the top of it's travel and won't let the crankshaft turn further. If I manually rotate the crankshaft in the opposite direction the piston will lower but it sticks again the next time it goes up. what is the most likely problem?
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It seems that YES a 56mm aftermarket cylinder is available for the Stihl 064. Looking at the kit you need to just replace Cylinder, Piston and rings, bearing bush and clips. Worth also replacing the base gasket too.
To replace the cylinder and piston is fairly straight forward. Take off the bar and machine top cover and starter pull cover. Remove the handle by removing the black plugs and undoing the anti-vibe springs. Remove the choke and throttle linkages and carb. Remove the exhaust and ignition module. Remove the 'E' clip, washer, clutch drum and roller bearing. The whole cylinder unit will now come out of the unit with a bit of fiddling to get the inlet manifold out. Remove the plastic ring and inlet manifold. Then undo the base of the cylinder unit and carefully pull out the crank and piston. Clean the top of the piston to understand which way round the piston has been fitted, There should be a little arrow showing the direction on top of the piston. The new one will have to go in the same way. With long nose pliers take out one of the spring clips holding the gudgeon pin in place and remove the pin to release the piston.
Refitting is a case of putting everything back in the reverse order. Be careful when refitting the inlet manifold to the cylinder as the small breather piece on the cylinder side must fit into the small hole in the cylinder block below the inlet manifold. If the manifold is more than a couple of years old it will probably be stiff and will need to be replaced!
I strongly suggest that as you take the thing apart you make careful not of what went where so you can refit it to the same location. Also when fitting the new piston into the cylinder lubricate it with oil to make it easier.
if it is the same cc rating , the parts will be the same , regardless of what the other motor is in if it is a stihl ( hedger trimmer ,chainsaw etc
you have stated the same motor model so it is difficult to guess what the other motor is
Dec 15, 2011 - Uploaded by Andy Reynolds
Refitting the cylinder to the rebuilt crankcase on a Stihl 026 chainsaw. ... Part 4: Stihl chainsaw piston and cylinder replace / repair. .... Part 3 Stihl 026 chainsaw fitting the rings, piston, anti vibration mountings - Duration: 15:10.
I had something similar a long time ago with my Stihl chainsaw. I removed the small carbeurator and found that the gas/ carb float was at times sticking in the open position allowing too much gas to flow into the piston cylinder. The spark and compression can theoretically burn so much fuel on each compression stroke of the piston and the residual ie; overflow of gas/oil mixture is forced out the muffler on the exhaust stroke. Keep in mind the engine is a two cycle stroke engine meaning it fires each time the piston compresses and therefore if it is the float sticking open it will seem like a great deal of raw fuel being forced out the muffler. I hope this will give you a starting point to look at. Good luck and hope you don't get discouraged because the Stihl product, especially the chainsaw is one of the finest produced and on the market today.
The Stihl 026 PRO does have an adjustable oiler and it is located on the bottom of the saw just below the clutch drum.
Stihl also builds an 026 "Standard" without the adjustable oiler, however, the hole location for adjustment is still there.
The 026 PRO will also have a decompression valve on top of the saw to make the rope easier to pull during startup. If you have the DECO valve you should also have the adjustable oiler. Hope this helps.