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I have a 1989 honda accord dx with a oil pan gasket leak and a rear main seal leak, in order to fix the rear main seal leak, does the oil pan and the oil pan gasket need to be removed and does the gasket need to be replaced
Re: I have a 1989 honda accord dx with a oil pan gasket...
They don't use gaskets on oil sumps its sealant glue and yes u will have to reapply it when you put the sump back on, and what do u mean by main seal? do you mean the head gasket?
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I'm sorry, but I can't provide visual images or diagrams. However, I can describe the general order of gaskets in a 1999 Dodge Durango engine from the top going down:
Valve Cover Gaskets: These gaskets are located on top of the cylinder heads and seal the valve covers. They help prevent oil leaks from the top of the engine.
Intake Manifold Gasket: The intake manifold gasket seals the connection between the intake manifold and the cylinder heads. It helps maintain proper air-fuel mixture and prevents vacuum leaks.
Throttle Body Gasket: If equipped, the throttle body gasket seals the connection between the throttle body and the intake manifold. It ensures proper airflow into the engine.
Exhaust Manifold Gaskets: These gaskets are located between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder heads. They seal the exhaust gases and prevent leaks.
Head Gaskets: The head gaskets are situated between the cylinder heads and the engine block. They seal the combustion chambers and coolant passages.
Oil Pan Gasket: The oil pan gasket is located at the bottom of the engine and seals the oil pan to the engine block. It prevents oil leaks from the oil pan.
Front and Rear Main Seals: These seals are located at the front and rear of the engine crankshaft. They prevent oil leaks where the crankshaft exits the engine block.
Timing Cover Gasket: If equipped, the timing cover gasket seals the timing chain or belt cover to the engine block. It helps protect the timing components and prevents oil leaks.
This may be from excessive pressure in the sump from blow-by from the compression process . It is from a blocked PCV valve that is not equalising that pressure. I have also known oil leaks to happen because the rear main bearing cap is leaking oil past the join around the bolts (loose) or no sealing compound used in assembling the rear main bearing.. I would look at the PCV valve as it is the cheapest test first.. Check that the oil is not coming from the front gear box seal or torque converter seal.
Dear Sir, Here is the oil leaking Problem Identifying Technique
Engine oil leaks from the valve cover gasket are common.
The intake manifold plenum gasket may leak and cause increased oil consumption/burning and a spark knock during acceleration; the gasket should be replaced.
External oil leaks from valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets (front or rear), and the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal area are common. The rear main seal is an unlikely source. Normally, the bearing cap mating surfaces (as well as the sealing surface between the oil pan and bearing cap) are the source for the leaks.
If the oil filter casing shows signs of distortion from excessive oil pressure, theoil pump should be replaced.
Often misdiagnosed as a leaking oil filter gasket, the oil filter adapter can seep from between the adapter and engine block.
Carbon buildup on the top of the piston is common. As the buildup increases with mileage and over time, symptoms may vary from light ticking, to ticking/hammering, to hammering/knocking noises. Fuel injector cleaner often solves the problem.
sea foam makes an additive for reconditioning seals in the engine(rear main included)....cost about twelve dollars....use according to directions on package...then sell
First have to determine where are you loosing it from.
Possible engine oil leak areas : Valve cover gasket,oil pan gasket, rear main,oil filter. crank or cam shaft seal, oil pump. Pcv valve.
If its transmission oil leaking here are a few areas of interest: shell of transmission( depending where on the shell could be oil pump, or converter., vents, and axle seals.
If your not capable to jack the vehicle up and look for the leak , then take it to a repair shop.
Keep me posted
If it is leaking out of the pan, then you will need a new pan gasket. If it's leaking out anywhere else, you could have a bad main or rear seal depending on where the leak is. A can of tranny stop leak may help you out.
ok, There are many areas that the oil could leak from. Head gasket, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, front seal, valve cover gasket. You'll need to locate the leak under the car in order to know which one to replace. There is nothing simple about replacing the rear main seal and although he front seal is easier it can still be a problem. Good Luck.
Dear Sir,
Here is the oil leaking Problem Identifying Technique
Engine oil leaks from the valve cover gasket are common.
The intake manifold plenum gasket may leak and cause increased oil consumption/burning and a spark knock during acceleration; the gasket should be replaced.
External oil leaks from valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets (front or rear), and the rear crankshaft (rear main) seal area are common. The rear main seal is an unlikely source. Normally, the bearing cap mating surfaces (as well as the sealing surface between the oil pan and bearing cap) are the source for the leaks.
If the oil filter casing shows signs of distortion from excessive oil pressure, the oil pump should be replaced.
Often misdiagnosed as a leaking oil filter gasket, the oil filter adapter can seep from between the adapter and engine block.
Carbon buildup on the top of the piston is common. As the buildup increases with mileage and over time, symptoms may vary from light ticking, to ticking/hammering, to hammering/knocking noises. Fuel injector cleaner often solves the problem.
If the leak is coming directly from above the oil filter it is more than likely the oil pressure switch is leaking. The seal around the Oil pressure switch could have gone bad and now it is leaking.
The oil pressure switch is located right above the the oil filter and above the cooling system cross pipe.
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