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Pop off valve on return line leaking compressor keeps running turn compressor off stops leaking whats up?

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  • waynespaintw Nov 19, 2009

    I FOUND THE PROBLEM WAS THE PRESSURE VALVE IN TOP OF TANK AND THE POP OFF VALVE WAS FAULTY COST ABOUT $30 BUCKS.

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Once the pop off valve reaches its opening point, it will stay open as long as the pressure is above that point. When you shut the compressor off, the pressure leaks down until the pop off valve closes. Sounds like the pressure regulator is set a little too high. If you can turn the regulator switch down, it should fix it.

Cabinetman54

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Josh:
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1 Answer

I have a ingersall rand 2475e compressor that the valve that the small copper tube goes to started leaking. replaced the valve and put back together and now pop off valve on the line from the compressor to...


Sound like a bad receiver tank check valve. Located in top of the tank and the pop off valve is screwed into it. If check valve is good you need to remove the heads and check the finger valves. I believe you'll find your problem in the check valve

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I have a air compressure with a square d 9013fhg44mix pressure switch. The problem is where the 1/4 air line goes, this valve leaks when ever the compressor is off. Once the compress is on it is off and...


The 1/4" line is very necessary and there are no adjustments on it. When the tank reaches full the pressure switch turns off the power and opens the valve to the 1/4" line to bleed off pressure from the air pump and feed tube so the motor can turn over the next time the tank drops to the kick in pressure. Every time the pressure switch turns the motor off a small amount of air should be heard coming out of the bottom of the switch for three to five seconds and then it should stop completely. If air continues to leak out of the switch by the 1/4" line, you have a bad tank check valve. The tank check valve is the brass fitting at the other end of the 1/4" line where the feed tube from the air pump goes into the tank. It keeps air in the tank after the pressure switch turns off the motor. Easy to replace, find the one you need for your model compressor.

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1 Answer

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It could be that the input air filter is badly clogged. I might more likely be that the Non-return valve on the air tank input is not sealing properly and not allowing the tank to build up pressure. This valve is at the end of the main pipe runs between the compressor and tank. It could also mean (less likely) that the poppet valves inside the compressor cylinder head are not sealing properly. Other faults could be worn rings on the compressor pistons or a bad seal between the compressor cylinder head and block.

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It souds like a sticky "non return valve". See the fix below.
The non return valve is the chrome part with a hex cap adjacent to the upper tank. Remove the cap and make sure the piston moves freely. Slight resistance is ok, but if it sticks your compressor willl continually blow off air.

The check valve or "non return valve", as listed in the Hitachi parts manual is definitely the culprit here, but there is an alternative solution to replacing the entire valve that was actually suggested to me by a Hitachi Tech when I stopped by my local service center to pick up a new non return valve. Obviously, the rubber piston swells and sticks to the point that the spring under the piston can't over come the friction. I removed the piston and carefully reduced its diameter, by hand, with varying grades of wet or dry paper and it now operates perfectly. If one is uncomfortable with such a repair, at least keep it in mind for a quick jobsite fix. I have now been running my repaired compressor for several months without issue.

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2 Answers

My ec 12 compressor will run and shut off around 125 psi and then it bleeds off untill it turns on around 80 psi Ive replace the pressure switch and its still doing this Why?


It souds like a sticky "non return valve". See the fix below.
The non return valve is the chrome part with a hex cap adjacent to the upper tank. Remove the cap and make sure the piston moves freely. Slight resistance is ok, but if it sticks your compressor willl continually blow off air.

The check valve or "non return valve", as listed in the Hitachi parts manual is definitely the culprit here, but there is an alternative solution to replacing the entire valve that was actually suggested to me by a Hitachi Tech when I stopped by my local service center to pick up a new non return valve. Obviously, the rubber piston swells and sticks to the point that the spring under the piston can't over come the friction. I removed the piston and carefully reduced its diameter, by hand, with varying grades of wet or dry paper and it now operates perfectly. If one is uncomfortable with such a repair, at least keep it in mind for a quick jobsite fix. I have now been running my repaired compressor for several months without issue.

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1 Answer

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