Question about Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer
My 70 series Kenmore washer does not spin. The washer made a banging noise (we thought it was out of balance) but still spun slowly through the first spin cycle. After the rinse cycle, the drum would not spin and the noise was gone. The water was drained, but the clothes were still soaked.
I took off the cover and looked for problems in operation, but there aren't many visible moving parts it seems (maybe that's the problem).
Can someone tell me what's wrong?
First, see the Sears Parts Site for your washer.
Look at the section on the Brake, Clutch, Gearcase and Pump.
Top load direct drive washers such as yours (made by Whirlpool) use a number of devices to ensure that the motor and transmission don't destroy themselves.
One of the main devices is the Motor Coupler. This is a piece between the motor and transmission that is designed to fail if the motor or transmission jams. It consists of three pieces.
Two of the pieces (plastic) fit on the motor and transmission drive shafts and have three prongs. The prongs fit into a center rubber piece that is designed to frail if necessary.
If the Motor coupler fails, the machine will likely still pump water out since the other shaft of the motor is connected to the pump.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet on the washer and how to pull the pump, motor and (if necessary) the transmission.
It's not as hard as it may seem. It's also best to have someone help you because it's easier to pull the pump, motor and transmission if the washer is laid down on its' back.
The clutch is connected to the top of the transmission.
You don't have to pull the drive tube in order to check the motor coupler and clutch.
If the Motor Coupler is broken follow these steps to replace it:
See the following:
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
If the Clutch is broken, or the springs are broken they are an easy replacement.
If the Motor Coupler and clutch are OK, I's pull the agitators and the drive tube although they seldom break.
In order to get the agitators out, you need to remove the "Spanner Nut" and "Drive Block".
Many instructions call for a special spanner wrench to remove the nut. However,
You don't need a special spanner wrench. (About $20 retail)
I've used a short 10" pipe wrench (About $9 also good for cracking walnuts) hooked around one of the tabs on the spanner nut and tapped the handle with a hammer to loosen it.
Also, don't directly hit the drive block with a hammer (it's soft metal). Put a short piece of wood under the drive block and tap it up with a hammer.
When putting the washer back together, make sure that you align the tabs on the drive tube with the slots on the drive block.
If all are fine, it's likely that you have a transmission problem. I still wouldn't trash the washer since most parts in the transmission are easily (but messy since it holds 15 oz. of oil) and a lot less than a new washer or $170 transmission.
As an aside, the Sears site has part numbers and prices for the Motor coupler and a clutch rebuild kit (a lot less than a new clutch). You'll have to decide if the costs are worth it.
One of the good things about these washers is that they are relatively easy to fix.
Posted on Dec 02, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The problem is usually attributed to either a bad gearcase (transmission), or a broken motor coupling.
Since the washer still drained, this indicates the drive motor is still working as the drain pump is driven by the motor. The easiest (and least expensive) part to check first is the coupler. The coupler is located between the drive motor and gearcase and takes the place of a drive belt. This type of configuration is known as "direct-drive". The following link explains how to access and/or replace the motor coupling (if required):
The motor coupling is comprised on three pieces (two plastic pieces with three tines, and a rubber bushing). Usually the tines snap off, the rubber bushing shears apart, or the center hole that the motor shaft is inserted rounds out and the coupling slips. Newer versions of the motor coupling have a steel grommet in the center to make it more resilient. The part number is included in the link I provided. A replacement can be purchased at appliancepartspros.com for about $11 or $12.
If you inspect the coupler and discover that is still intact, I'm aftraid you may have a gearcase that has gone bad. The gearcase price averages about $150-$160 if you wish to replace it yourself. If you wish to pursue the repair on your own, it is not difficult. The following link explains:
A replacement gearcase can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
I hope I've given you enough information to work with. If you have any questions, or need assistance with identifying part numbers, please post back with your model number (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim) so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Nov 17, 2009
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