At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low. If both the B+ and remote turn-on lines are low and your battery is fully charged, you may have a bad ground connection.With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low. If both the B+ and remote turn-on lines are low and your battery is fully charged, you may have a bad ground connection.
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
Ssometimes the antenna wire is not enough to turn on the amp , some cars use relays in thier power antenna turn on set up which require low 500 ma 's . hit the amps turn on post with 12 volts directly from a jumper wire with alligator clips from main poower wire , if it still wont tunr on the amp the amp may be faulty , also check amps ground , metal its grounded must be free of paint , undercoating rug ect ....
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
hi lizzy, please make sure that the power wiring (red, black and yellow cables) of your unit is correctly connected to the vehicle. next check if the blk wire(ground) is connected to the chassis(metal body part) of your unit (use a mutimeter). if not then attach a wire from the body of your unit to the blk wire. also make sure that your antenna lead is connected to the unit, and that the antenna is securely grounded to the body of vehicle. once power is correctly connected your unit will light up a red LED light in the power/source button. if all this does not help it will be advisable to have unit checked at jvc service center. cheers!
The blue lead does not go to negative. It needs to go to the power antenna wire from your radio. If you have an aftermarket radio, then this would be a solid blue wire from the aftermarket radio harness, that should be connected to the matching blue wire in your other store bought Toyota harness that it mates to. Then this plugs into the OEM harness that is part of your truck wiring. You can confirm that the blue wire at your power antenna is the one that triggers the motor by briefly touching it to the power wire (red) and watching your antenna begin to rise up. Remove the blue wire from power, and it should descend.
jd40, Sounds like a grounding issue. The first two places to look into is the powered subwoofer and antenna. During your last test, did you leave the FM antenna and subwoofer connected? Many times the hum is directly related to the antenna and/or the subwoofer and to how they are grounded; creating a ground loop through the receivers ground on the outlet. If the antenna is grounded to the dwellings wiring, hum is inevitable and sometime you can get a ground loop hum from how or how & where the subwoofer is grounded. Try taking them completely out of the loop.
Also try taking it further back to the basics, start with the receiver plugged into a known good grounded outlet with no surge or line conditioner in the loop and nothing connected to the receiver, nothing. Use one speaker and different wire to test each speaker output while in tuner and any other mode but phono. With no signal, you will either get nothing (no hum or static) or just static in the tuner mode. No hum is a good sign. Some systems will mute the speakers if no signal is connected to eliminate the static from being produced through the speakers but a ground loop hum will most likely still be produced even in mute. If you get a hum when nothing is connected to the receiver, try looking into getting a better grounded outlet, even maybe to a different dwelling.
The unit should power up without an antenna. If it powers up then you would only get hash noise on the speakers. You can put a paper clip with a 12" piece of wire to the input or where the ant should go to see if you are getting a signal.
If you have power at the unit then you may have a bad ground (-).
this can be one of three things
1) the fuse on back of CD player could be blown
2) you need to push and hold the src/pwr button till unit powers on
as long as the yellow and red wire are attached to the positive battery wire you are good if the ground is to the battery ground and you try the first two steps i said and nothing happens........
3) ground the black wire from back of the CD player to any metal surface on the golf cart than try the first two steps again
it should power on if this is the case
hope i was able to help you
You will need to buy a signal amplifier antenna. One that doe not have to be connected to the Clock/Radio. It will provide the amplified signal and the radio antenna (the a/c line cord and the back of the clock/radio) will be able to pick up the signal from the amplified antenna.[http://www.radiolabs.com/products/antennas/am-antenna.php] this web link will show you one type of these antenna's. Copy the web link and paste it into the address bar in your browser. It will take you to the website. There maybe other types of these antenna's but this one had the best price. Call the store and talk to them before you buy the antenna to make sure it will work in your situation. I hope this information helps you with your antenna problems.
by the way you tell me that the radio illumination is the gray wire and all of the rest you are wrong. try the correct way red is key positive,yellow is constant power,black is ground,orange is illumination,blue is remote,gray is right front positive and gray black is negative,white is left front positive and white black is negative,green is left rear positive and green black is negative,violet is Right rear positive and violet black is negative,
easiest thing first. check the fuse on the hot wire on the radio harness. next, check to ensure the hot wire is to battery power, and the acc (likely yellow or orange) is attached to a wire that turns on with the ignition. next, check to ensure good ground. all this should take less than 10 minutes.
The wires you posted need not go anywhere not unless you have a device that will attached to them. antenna power - connects to the motor of a telescopic external car antenna. When you power on the unit, it will automatically raise the antenna; amp power - connects to an add-on/external amplifier. This switches/triggers the amp to gon when the Jensen is powered up; reverse - attaches to the reverse light of your vehicle. This will tell your unit that you are reversing and will activate a rear view camera.
As earlier stated, if you do not have any use of these devices then there is no need to connect the above described wires to anything. Connecting them to the ground would have a bad effect on the internal circuitry of the Jensen since they are meant to supply power and therefore are connected to the B+supply when the Jensen is powered except for the reverse which would sense a 12V from the vehicle's transmission. Connecting them to the constant B+12 would have no ill effect except that your Jensen would always be on.
Hope that this be of some help/idea. Pls post back how things turned out or should you need additional information.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low. If both the B+ and remote turn-on lines are low and your battery is fully charged, you may have a bad ground connection.
×