I suspect taht you can obtain a replacement back. The back should be removable by sqeezing together two pins on the hinge side of the back (on the inside). You should call B&H Camera in NYC (866-239-7781). They should be able to give you a price and order you one.
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I really loved your camera type though it was 35 years ago I had one. I envy you.
Not sure why you should be having trouble unless you have a bad film. Have you tried more than one film?
If the film cassette has dropped in properly and is laying flat, the film rewind has to be raised, I think, to allow that and the sprocket holes in the film are properly engaged with the sprockets and the free end of the film engaged onto the film wind-on reel then everything should be well below the door aperture.
I would wind on maybe a frame and fire the shutter prior to closing the film door just to observe everything moving as it should and then close the door.
The last quarter inch the door must be closed against the pressure of a spring but if the little spring-loaded device behind the door which is intended to keep the film perfectly flat against the camera body is working correctly only a light pressure will be needed to compress those springs and close the door.
Perhaps something is wrong there?
I don't remember any problems closing the film door.
I hope this helps but if it doesn't please come back again and describe your actions and the feel of the door more fully.
1. Remove the pan drawer 2. With someone holding glass up, remove the four screws at the bottom of the door that hold the glass front to the door frame. Gently lower the panel about two inches until the side guides are below the door trim cap. Place out of the way so it doesn't fall over etc. 3. Keeping the door closed, use a spring puller to remove each spring from the hinge. (I made one out of a hanger and a screwdriver. Double thickness at the hook, wrapped and secured around the screwdriver to make a handle) If you do things this way be VERY careful. Be sure it is really strong and is not going to slip. The springs are really under tension and will shrink down about an inch from where they are hooked. (Be sure to support the door so it does not fall open when the springs are removed. It will just make things worse.) 4. After the springs are off gently open the door all of the way. 5. Pull down the hinge locks from the oven body and lift the base of the door up. This will lift the door hinges off of the mounts in the oven frame and allow you to pull the door away from the body. 6. Place the door on your box or workbench etc 7. Remove the two screws on each side of the door that hold the hinges in place. Remove the hinges.
Reinstallation is in reverse.
Hinge repair. By placing the lower part of the hinge (by the axle) against a ruler I was able to see that the upper section was bent out on each hinge. To correct it I placed the hinge over a pair of 4x4 blocks so that it curved up in the center, and hit it a few times with a hammer. The metal was very responsive and quickly bent back into shape. Be careful here as you don't want to bend them too far. I actually went a little past true, wanting to get a little more push at the top of the door. I placed the hinges directly on the oven to see the difference and they looked good (Be sure to put a piece of cardboard or rag between them and the top to keep them from scratching the surface.
Put the hinges back in the door, screw it together and hang it back on the stove, replace the springs and the glass, and check your fit. Good luck.
The hardest part is going to be to reinstall the spring on the lower hinge arm. this is not a screw but rather a pin. There are two hinges that hold the door to body. when the upper and lower pins are removed the door will come away from body, it is important that before you remove the pins you take a look at the hinges. Pay close att. to the way the hinges sit inside each other and the way the pins go in. see if they go from top to bottom or from bottom to top. also note where the copper bushings sit in hinges. each hinge has one pin and two copper bushings top go into hinge. Over time the pins and bushings wear out ,making door hard to open and close. When the pins and bushings get so bad that the bushing is worn out and then the pins are now wearing into the hinge hole itself then this get tricky. if hinge hole is egg shaped the new bushings will not last. the door will hang again in a few weeks. this is where is get costly, the hinges now need replacing. i have gotten good at welding the holes and filing them back to shape but this takes skill or hole will be wrong and bushing will not fit or line up.
Here is a youtube video to help you. Take note. put jack stands under door with cloth to avoid scratching door.this is to hold door when pins are removed. have somone help you, they will hold door on stands. the wires will still run through door, pull door away from body a little to allow room to work.remove the spring, it will fall out as you remove pins, remove old bushings, clean hinge area and holes,next install new bushings, apply lube to holes for pins and on bushings, slide door back on frame hinges and install pins, next slide lock washers on pins to hold pins. last is the spring. you will need a spring tool, you may rent one at auto parts store. hope this helps good day.
The doors Hinges or Striker need to be adjusted to make up for the weatherstrip thickness. To do this, loosen the hinge-to-door bolts for lateral adjustment only. Loosen the hinge-to-body bolts for both lateral and vertical adjustment.
BEFORE YOU START:
Determine which hinge bolts are to be loosened and back them out just enough to allow movement.
To move the door safely, use a padded pry bar. When the door is in the proper position, tighten the bolts to 19-25 ft. lbs. (26-35 Nm) and check the door operation. There should be no binding or interference when the door is closed and opened.
Door closing adjustment can also be affected by the position of the lock striker plate. Loosen the striker plate bolts and move the striker plate just enough to permit proper closing and locking of the door.
TO ADJUST ON A:
F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator
HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL ADJUSTMENT
Loosen the front door hinge to front door bolts.
Adjust the front door alignment.
Tighten the front door hinge to front door bolts to 19-25 ft. lbs. (26-35 Nm).
FRONT DOOR FORE AND AFT ADJUSTMENT
Check the rear door hinge adjustment before adjusting the front door hinge.
Remove the front fender.
Loosen the front door hinge to body bolts.
Adjust the front door alignment to specification.
Tighten the front door hinge to body bolts.
Install the front fender.
1999-00 F-Super Duty Models
The following procedure is for performing fore, aft, up, down and tilt adjustments.
Remove the door striker.
Loosen the bolts only enough to allow for slight door movement.
Carefully close and adjust the door until flush with the adjacent body panels.
Carefully open the door and tighten the bolts.
Re-install and adjust the door striker.
Check the door for proper operation and alignment.
Mark the position of the striker before loosening.
Loosen the striker retaining bolts.
Adjust the door striker and tighten the striker retaining bolts.
Good Luck!! A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa.
Open the camera-back. Look to the right where the take spool is there is a red mark. The leader should go to the red mark not any more. Now look at the inside of the camera-door, you should see close to the hinge a springy thingy-bob. If that is missing then when you close the door there is nothing to push on the film to seat it. On that spring is a chrome pin as well. Hope this helps you.
Oven doors are made to lift off for routine maintenance but there might be problems if the spring load hinges are not disabled before pulling the door off the body.
There should be a catch which holds the hinge in the open position but if it is the release position (i.e. the state in which it is in for normal use), the I would expect the hinges to snap into the closed position when the door is removed from the body.
To rectify this, hold each spring loaded arm in the position it would be in the "door open" position and move the catch into the position which prevents the arm springing back when they are released.
It should now be possible to fit the door to the cooker.
No, you won't. Open the back and look at the hinge of the film door. There is a small screw near the top that sticks out. push it down with your finger to release the upper door pin. Your light leak is likely coming from that area too. A bad seal on the hinge is the usual suspect.
open the door on the hook that's still engaged look in the slot you will see a hinge lock using a small screw driver flip it back to lock the hinge then let the door up til the door engages the hinge lock grasp the door on either side and lift up and back to take the door off then pull the other hinge out till you can lock it then grasp both sides put the hinge hooks on the pins in the slot open the door all the way and fold the locks back in the body of the range and close the door
I finally got my door back on, I had to wedge a butter knife in the hinge to keep it open, then I could put it back on the pins and slide the metal cover/locking thinge over it. Was a pain in the ass.