Hotpoint first edition wma 11 drum bearings removal
I hope ya will be able to help me i have a hotpoint first edition wma 11 and the bearings need changing i have manged to get to them with minimal fuss and have removed the back bearings no problem. i have now come to removing the front ones and they have eroded completley and only the outer ring remains which is a bugger to get to as there is not enough to of a lip to be able to bray it out is there anything i can do to make it easier thanks for your time
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Re: hotpoint first edition wma 11 drum bearings removal
Hey kevin that outer cone of the front bearing is a mission im telling ya...
But from experience ive found that by cleaning around it ( i use a metal brush on a drill ) and using wd40 and letting it soak in for a few hours its makes like a lot easier,,
I use a bolster with an end similar to a crow bar to just get inbetween the tiny gap and a very big lump hammer to know out the cone.... Best way knocking it from side to side ie bottom the turn the back half of the drum round and knock the top then the sides,,
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Depends where you live here in England I buy from hotpoint.however its quite a big job to do also you may find this models bearings are sold on as half drum,you need to buy he half drum with bearings fitted to replace and costs parts approx 70.pounds..hope this helps
Remove the lower rear panel of washer.
Locate and remove the large black hose fastened to bottom of drum.
Remove and clean plastic filter inside the hose, reassmble and test for leaks.
Have some cloths ready to mop up any water that may appear..
Removed lower rear panel of washer.
Undo 2 screws securing motor to outer drum casing, unplug motor lead and remove motor, brushes ar e located at the end of the motor furthest away from the motor pulley.
If there are no visible screws or other obvious means of the 2 drum halves being joined together, then it is not possible to change the bearings, as it is a one piece drum.
Current models are one piece, earlier models had screws securing the drum halves together,
Hope this helps..
Here are a series of free videos to help you with your
bearing problems and how to fix them
For all your free videos on appliance repairs remember to
mark us down and leave feed back please
For all your parts visit our site http://www.apart4u.co.uk
This first video shows you how to diagnose the problem
The next Hotpoint video is on how to take the drum out
This Hotpoint video will show you how to change the bearings
in the drum tub
the last one will show you how to change the spider or drum
support as they are known
working from the front using mole grips get hold of the suspension peg now feel round the back you should feel a raised part of the peg this has to be depressed now pull the peg out if it gets stuck push back 5mm and try again repeat on other side life the springs out with the drum
hope that helps
Hi, I also have the bearing problem on a hotpoint wma and have just stated the repair job. I have found the following on different forums, so maybe it might help others. You do need to remove the drum and there are two different sizes of bearings 30mm and 35mm. To find the size you need you have to get to the bearings and measure them.
. Ok,Hotpoint wma series drum bearing failure.Firstly very common problem since i work on these things every day-i think there is a design fault-nothing new in this trade!What follows is
the sequence of problems in changing the drum bearings:If the machine has been thrashed into oblivion just changing the oilseal/bearings will have you back to square one within a
couple of months since you would`ve damaged the drum shaft as the bigger bearing of the 2 goes into shapnell mode!So you`d best change the drum shaft(in the trade known as the
spider) however this thing is aluminium usually held onto the the drum via torx headed screws either in steel or soft Al2 also-forget it as your not going to get these out unless your mega
lucky,what we do at work is to replace the whole tank/drum/bearing assembly which comes with a new element and belt ie the whole tank unit,the trade price of this part is less than
£100.00-you can draw your own conclusions as to the retail price as you wish.If you haven`t thrashed the machine you can get away with replacing just the bearings or easier still the rear
half of the tank(trade price 30.00+vat) in which the bearings are already fitted via the factory and reuse the existing spider/drum shaft so long as it isn`t damaged by disintergrated bearing
shapnell.I hope this clears up this problem for you.Please note that this machine`s filter which is at the rear doubles up as the air trap-the oval section 8" long semi transpatent plastic tube
thing-the part that allows the water to compress the air so turning off the level of fill at the right level via the round swt behind the soap dispenser-called the pressure swt-if the filter gets
bunged up the machine o/fills and either overfills or overfills and floods or tries to spin with aload of water still inside the drum or perhaps no spin at all.Hope this helps someone.
The drum comes out through the front on this one. Take off kick plate and remove screws holding front panel to frame. Take out soap drawer & remove screws behind it. Take off band
holding door seal & peel seal back. Remove 2 screws holding door lock &push lock through. Pull control panel forward at left side & slide to right to remove being careful with board &
wiring.Remove screws holding top end of front then lift slightly &remove front.Remove back panel & take wiring off heating element & pump. Disconnect the pump hose at the drum end,
disconnect the hose from the soap dispenser, note that wiring is fastened to the drum at several points and will need to be disconnected. Remove panel from behind control board then
carefully move everything away from the front of the machine, the drum can now be lifted clear.
Forgot to mention unplugging motor but common sense will prevail. ///////////////////////////////
it could be a number of problems which are very common on the entire wma range.
1, drum bearings are really poor in these.
2, concrete block tapping, sometimes the bracket n the drums snap.
3, motor bracket snapped causing tapping.
i've found the plastic drums seem to be quite weak on the wma range to be honest so will more than likely be one of the above.