Question about Whirlpool Calypso GVW9959K Top Load Washer

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During the initial rinse cycle, got an OB code which is out of balance. Redistributed the load and it started spinning but stopped with an OB code again. After redistributing the load several times and getting OB codes, I took the entire load out. I was then left with just water. Had to restart a wash cycle, without a load, to get the washer to empty out the water. It added a small amount of water then nothing. I could hear a humming sound but nothing happened. Then it started to spin for a couple of seconds and stopped. It started agitating for a couple of seconds, trying to spin and then stopped. Did nothing for several minutes and then came up with the "LD" long drain code, did nothing and then shut off after a couple of minutes. As far as I can tell there is not water being drained out of the washing machine. I let it sit for a couple of hours as I thought I might have cause a motor to over heat or something. Tried putting it thru the "rinse only" cyle and it just repeats what I described above. No water gets drained and it eventually gives LD code and shuts off after a few minutes.

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HI,

The Calypso washer takes a very long time to drain or doesn’t drain at all if something stops the flow of water through the pump, any of the hoses, and/or the drainpipe. Then the LD error code begins. It is combinedd with the OB error code, The solution for the above issue is as follows

Read through the following numbered items, and employ all safety precautions before trying them.

1. Check the drainpipe first because it’s most accessible. The drainpipe comes out of the machine through a small indented plate at the upper right of the back of the machine. The pipe is corrugated, and a ring holds the pipe flush to the plate at one of the ridges. Slide the ring away from the plate and remove the plate. Then the pipe is slack and easy to check for kinks and plugs.

2. The LF (overflow, flood) error might be a minor side effect of running the machine through a cycle after erasing the LD code without fixing the drain problem.

To disappear the LF code:
a. Lay the pipe on the floor or ground where it can drain to a sewer, run the washer through a cycle, and the water caught in the tank might or might not run out.
b. Use gravity to drain the machine. Remove the big back panel. Locate and detach two small clear plastic tubes inserted in a small well at the bottom of the water tank. Stand behind the machine and pull it back so it will be on its back on the floor. First, position a strong board or other item to hold the top end about 4 inches above floor level so the machine won’t crush the water hoses and electric cord. Position the board so that the control console hangs free and doesn’t bear any of the machine’s weight. Water should pour out of the water tank through the inlets of the little well without squirting water where water could make trouble. If the machine leaks significantly when it’s upright and going through a cycle later, put the clear plastic tubes back on their inlets and straighten out the plastic overflow bag like somebody forgot to do sooner.
c. Turn off the water supply before putting the machine through subsequent test cycles and/or repeat 2a and 2b as needed after failed repair attempts.

3. The OB error might flash every few seconds when the machine goes through a test cycle, with or without water, and with or without any fabric in the tub. Wander back around to the back of the machine when the big back panel is still off and stare at it. Notice that the OB error beeps and flashes just after the tub and water tank **** to one side. Realize that the drainpipe does more than drain. It also anchors the tub and tank. The OB error occurs because the drainpipe is slack.

4. Stop the OB error by making the drainpipe taut. Put the drainpipe plate back in the back of the machine. Pull the drainpipe taut. Slide the ring on the corrugated ridges until the ring is flush with the plate.

5. Most hoses and inlets that can clog are visible when the machine is upright and the big back plate is removed. They are also visible when the machine is tilted backward and the bottom plate is removed. Either way, the clamps that hold the hoses to the inlets are difficult to get at with a wrench; and they are too sharp and strong to squeeze by hand. If necessary, use a hammer to whack the hose clamps so they go where they can be reached with a wrench. Be sure to leave the clamps accessible when putting the machine back together.

6. Hoses and clamps that can’t be reached through the bottom, can probably be reached through the front of the machine after the front wall is removed.

7. The front wall of the machine can be removed after the top of the machine is removed. Use a wide chisel or putty knife to remove the top. Insert the chisel under the top near the two clamps that hold the top down. The clamps are inside. Use a flashlight to locate them through the **** under the top.

8. Some do-it-yourselfers report that pages of useful information and instructions are inside a plastic bag taped inside the front wall of the machine.

9. A repair manual in pdf format can be downloaded for free at http://www.affordableappliance.com/Download%20Folder/Calypso%20Washer%20Service%20Manual.pdf
Manual is Job Aid part #8178010 (L-67) for Whirlpool Electronic Control Washer with Calypso Wash Motion Model GVW-9959K-0. 68 pages, including blank pages for notes.

10. The original drain pump has three pieces.
(a) The electric motor.
(b) A horseshoe shaped housing for water wheels.
(c) A capacitator.
An improved replacement pump combines the motor and water wheels. The replacement pump costs $100+. The three pieces can’t be replaced separately as needed at low cost. Before spending $100+ that would be better spent at the Laundromat or on a new machine, try the following.

11. Remove the horseshoe shaped water wheel housing and poke inside for lint and other blockages. The housing is easy to remove. Squeeze the hose clamps and slide the hoses off the inlets. Pop the two metal clamps that hold the housing to the motor. Carry the wheel housing to a place with comfortable seating and strong light. Lint removal can take several hours with any of the ad hoc devices that the do-it-yourself community has jerry rigged for the job. Don’t give up right away if lint doesn’t immediately reveal itself. Rotate the wheels and they might eventually churn up lint from the invisible interior of the housing.

12. If there is no lint, or lint removal doesn’t stop the LD error, the problem could be a ball where the drainpipe attaches to its inlet at the tank. Eliminate the ball by purchasing and installing a generic drainpipe that fits the inlet and doesn’t have a ball.

13. The problem could be the hole in the center of the water wheel housing where the shaft of the pump motor fits. The hole is ridged to grab the gear-like shaft. The ridges can strip off and then the shaft won’t grab and turn the wheels. When the wheels don’t turn, water won’t circulate and drain. The problem can be fixed with glue. Put glue in the hole, fit the wheel housing on the shaft, clean excess glue, and let dry. The person who reported success with repair by glue didn’t say what kind of glue he/she used.
Please leave me comment, if you need further assistance
Thanks for using FixYa!

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

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