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Posted on Nov 17, 2009
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Is it correct way to run the wires parallel from

Is it correct way to run the wires parallel from the amp itself?
nithin

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  • Posted on Nov 17, 2009
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Running parallel means positive to positive and negative to negative.

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Ammeter wiring how do I wire -20/+20 12v gauge to 4 batteries wired in parallel in my caravan ? I have 480w of solar power, 4x120 a/h deep cycle batteries.I run 12v fridge, 12v TV plus lights,pumps,...

4 batteries in parallel equal 480 a/h so if you pull 10 amps as an example it would last 48 hours. To measure current the amp meter would have to be in series with the total output of the four batteries. If you go between the batteries current is divided due to being in parallel Divide the total a/h by the current being drawn to work out the time frame .
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Wire 2 sub 4ohm

I am assuming these are subs, you didnt say, but that is my guess. do you want bass, or do you want to take it easy on your amp? do you have a terminal cup on your sub box, or just wires going into the box to the speakers? take it easy route: wire positive from amp to positive of one speaker, negative of amp to negative of the other speaker, with a jumper wire connecting the negative of the first speaker, to the positive of the second.
more bass route: run seperate positive and negative wires to each speaker, making sure to maintain proper polarity.
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it could be the the starter solenoid or starter itself that is the problem.you said it started when you started using your fm transmitter have you tried not using it to see if it starts working correctly for a few days.if it works normally then this is the problem.try another outlet if you have one to see if the problem starts again.
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I installed the MTX Audio JackHammer JH300 600W, Class D in my truck. Powering two alpine type-s 10' subs. Im using a 50a fuse at the battery. 8 gauge B and ground. I had the subs working went for a drive...

Your amp should not have a 50 amp fuse at the battery. It puts out 300 watts RMS (continuous power). The fuse at your battery should match the one that is on the amp itself. Your amp is overheating and there is a fault, possibly your speakers are wired to present too low of an impedance to your amp. Disconnect them from your amp, and use an ohmmeter/multimeter and measure the resistance load. It should not be lower than roughly 2 ohms. Depending on whether you bought dual 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm subs, that could be the heart of your problem.

If you bought D2 subs, you can get a 4 ohm load per sub with each sub's voice coils in series, and then parallel them together to get a 2 ohm load at the amp, which is perfect for your amp. Or you can wire each sub's voice coils in parallel, so that they're 1 ohm each, and then series them together at the amp for a 2 ohm load. The first method is simpler. Be sure that you haven't wired each voice coil in parallel (1 ohm per sub), and THEN also wired both subs in parallel to the amp (1/2 ohm load). That would definitely send your amp into protection mode, probably before it would have a chance to overheat. This is another reason why you should not have used a 50 amp fuse under the hood. If for whatever reason, the fuse on your amp doesn't blow, the amp is getting way too much current for it to handle, because of that 50 amp fuse under the hood.

If you bought D4 subs, you have a problem. If you've wired each sub's coils in parallel (2 ohm per sub) and then wired both subs together in parallel at the amp (1 ohm load) you're presenting too low of a load to your amp. Again, this will overheat your amp and send it into protection mode, both of which are what you're seeing. You never want to have two D4 subs with an amp that only handles 2 ohms, because you can't get a 2 ohm load with two D4s. You're stuck with 4 ohms or 1 ohm. 4 ohms cuts your amp power in half, 1 ohm cuts it off completely.

If you know for sure which way you've wired them, then you now have the information to tell you whether you've done it incorrectly or not. If you're not sure, first disconnect your subs and measure the resistance as I described in the first paragraph. If your amp is seeing a 1 ohm or 1/2 ohm load, there's your problem. If you see a 2 ohm load (subs are wired correctly after all) then you may have a bad ground connection, or your amp is bad and needs to be serviced/replaced.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/reginald_bec291de192ca44f

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That's dependent on your subwoofers. You will need 2 dual 4 ohm subs wired in Parallel, a single dual 2 ohm subwoofer wired in parallel, a single dual .5 ohm wired in series. Or something similar.

http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm
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Hello mikey4569mky,

Unless your amp is stable below 1 ohm, there's really only one wiring solution. And that is to series the voice coils making each sub 8 ohms, then parallel all 3 subs to the amp for a 2.67 ohm load. If you parallel the voice coils and then parallel the subs, the impedance will be 0.67 ohms, much too low for most amps.

You could parallel the voice coils and then series the subs for a 6 ohm load, but the amp won't put as many watts into a 6 ohm load. Most are optimized for 4 ohms or 2 ohms. And it's not good to run subs in series anyway.

Here's the wiring diagram.

Hope this helps.
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Control the volume on each of the 12 bass shakers i plan to install

Please note that you can't simply wire them together in series or parallel. Connecting any more than 2 would likely cause damage to your amplifier. (depending on the impedance of the bass shaker 4 ohms, 8 ohms, etc.)

The Buttkicker brand recommends the following configuration for four buttkickers into one amp: Click here

As you can see, you need a combination of parallel and series connections to make sure the amp is "seeing" the correct load. I'd recommend purchasing three dedicated subwoofer amps (there are some good inexpensive ones at http://www.parts-express.com.

This will give you volume control over each set of four shakers at the amp itself. If you need control at each shaker, the only solution I know if is to use an impedance matching volume control.

Check Parts Express for those, too.

If this solved your problem, please rate it as FixYa. If not, let me know how else I can help you.

Good luck!
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I have 2 pioneer ts-w307d4 400watts rms and an GMD7400M 400 Watt Mono Digital Amplifie now how do i connect this or what is the best connection or setup?

liquid_icon:

Since the the subs are 4ohms & the amp's highest output is @ a 2 ohm load, you will need to wire the subs in parallel to the amp. When speakers are wired in parallel it reduces the resistance the amp feels on it's output. In "parallel" means connecting the + terminals of each speaker to the + terminal of the amp. Then connect the - terminals of each speaker to the - terminal of the amp. Make sure you use the correct wire size called for the spk mfg. That's it. If you need additional help, let me know.

peace-out
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Yes. When you run two-two ohm subs to a monoblock amp its on the same channel meaning there ran parallel, and that makes it one ohm and most mono-blocks won't read one ohm. Are you popping fuses in the amp?
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Amp & sub wiring

Whether you should run them series or parallel depends on the ohms of the speakers and the rating of the amp. If the amp rating is 2 ohms and the speaker are 4 each, then you can run parallel. When you connect speakers in parallel, the total impedance (ohms) is calculated by dividing the impedance of one speaker by the number of speakers, assuming they're all the same. When in series, add the speaker impedances together (i.e. 2 speakers 4 ohms each=8 ohms) Going over the amp rating doesn't hurt anything but the level of sound, but when you go below it, you'll eventually burn out the amp.

Hope this helps, and please rate my advice.
Thank you, and good luck!!
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