Question about Whirlpool 21.0 cu. ft. Top Freezer Refrigerator with IceMagic Plus Ice Maker

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ICEMAKER STOPPED WORKING, HAD IT OFF FOR QUITE A WHILE, AND TURNED IT ON THE DAY WE HAD THE WATER OFF TO RUN A NEW LATERAL TO THE HOUSE.

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Sounds like there is either something in the line blocking the water, the water valve is bad or the micro-switch inside the maker is bad. First try this. Turn the ice maker on and off 3 or 4 times. If nothing, take the ice level lever and flip it back and forth a couple of times. (This will re-set some models) Watch the ice maker and see if it starts moving. If not, take the front cap off of the maker. If it has the big gear and little gear you can advance it like this. Take a small flat blade screw driver and put it in the middle of the little gear, Try turning it clock wise. It will not turn fast, just hold clock wise pressure on it. After it turns about 1/2 turn, the ice maker will start running by it's self. It should advance all the way and take water. If not, like i said, it's either a bad water valve, something blocking the line or a bad micro-switch inside the ice maker it's self.
Note. You said that it worked until you had the water off for something. If you had broken into the water line tom the house, there could have been trash get into the water lines. It does not take much to stop a water valve from working. It just may be something in the line. I hope this helps. Good luck!

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

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Ice maker quit working. Has been working good stopped making ice 2 days ago. What could be wrong?


Greetings,
is the fresh food section/freezer cold enough? the freezer temp operates the icemaker and if there is a refrigeration problem. the icemaker is the first thing to go out..I would check to see if water is frozen inside of icemaker mold. if no water..there could be a inlet valve problem(not letting water flow into icemaker) also, check the fill tube..this is the tube that water flows into the i/m..
if your water valve is leaking..it will fill up the fill tube with ice and prevent it from coming into i/m...look here first, if blocked..use a hairdryer to open blocked ice from tube. this will allow water to flow again..and you can order a new water valve.. the icemaker itself may not be working.. if you found nothing from what I mentioned...look at possible icemaker failure. these can be started manually...remove icemaker cover and if it has a front with just one gear and little holes with letters next to them..this one you can us a jumper wires to start the icemaker...see link

Icemaker Tips


Manually starting a 'harvest' cycle:

Two basic designs of domestic, analog icemakers are most common. (Electronic models come & go from time to time - shudder - but we aren't seeing them in great numbers - yet)

Pop the front cover off yours and check the large gear front & center. If the front plate is metal, and you see a Phillips
screw in the center of this gear, that's great - you own a 'microswitch' design. This is one of the most reliable units ever made! Here's what it looks like with the front cover off:


microswicemaker.jpg

To manually start a cycle, either grasp the ejector and rotate upward (CW fr. front), or use a screwdriver to turn the smaller gear (CCW) if yours has a slot for this. Once you turn it a short distance, you'll hear a little 'click and the unit will start to run. Make sure the ice-sensing bail has clearance to raise & lower during this test cycle.

If there's no screw, that's OK too, you own a 'modular' unit, and even though we, um, make more income from these <grin>, they're still pretty decent. Here's what a modular looks like with the front cover off:

modularicemaker.jpg

To start a cycle with this one, don't attempt to turn the gears manually! You'll need a short piece of insulated solid copper wire, 12-14 gauge. (Just strip a 4 in. piece out of some 12-2 'romex' used in house wiring
.) Strip the ends back about ¾ in. and bend it into a 'U' shape. This wire is inserted into the holes marked 'T' and 'H' in the front of the icemaker to bypass the tstat and run a cycle. (don't insert it into any holes except 'T' & 'H' !) Remove the jumper after a few seconds (or the heater will stay on), and let it run, waiting for the fill at the end. Again, make sure the ice-sensing bail has clearance to raise & lower during your test cycle.

Note: I stress this jumper wire needs to be insulated, because you're briefly jumping 120V here. The usual precautions apply


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in its entirety, including this message.

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The water lines can also be unblocked from dirt using a thin flexible shaft. This after defrosting.

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Enter the model number on one of two websites below to get parts and diagrams for your appliance:


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