Question about HP f2105 21" LCD Monitor
Haha, been there. This ones a little tricky. Hope you have strong
fingers. start by removing the base. There are 3 screws. First pull the
base plate off. Then remove 2 screws. Next remove the little rubber
insert in the center of the base bracket. You will need a long phillips
to get to the 3rd screw. Slide out the base bracket. Flip the panel
over and stare at the lcd with the buttons side on the top. Grab a
small flat head screw driver. Look at an angle in each of the corners
between the inner black lcd trim and the silver outside trim. There is
a ****. Shove the flathead in there and pry outward toward the silver
trim while lifting on the black inner trim vertically. The trick is to
flex the black trim toward the silver and then pull up. There are 6
plastic snaps on the top and bottom, and 4 snaps on the left and right.
If you've taken laptop screens apart, you'll feel the similarity.
Once you pry the black trim off the front. Disconnect the LCD Menu button assembly and power button. Then flip over the LCD and lift off the back shell. Looking at the back, remove the 2 connectors for the speakers. Use a small flathead to pry the 4 Inverter power connectors. These 4 connectors have a clip on them and are usually hard to pull out using the wire. Once thoses 6 connectors are removed, remove the 2 phillips screws holding the AC power plug to the case. Also remove the 4 3/16 posts for the VGA and DVI ports. Next remove 4 screws, 2 screws from each side of the LCD assembly. Hold the panel face down with the aluminum tape in the bottom left. Lift the shield and guide the 6 wires through the cage. While opening, look inside and disconnect the flat ribbon cable as soon as you can. Put the LCD to the side. Remove 2 screws from the Video processing board, and 5 screws from the power supply. Note: 1 of the 5 screws is longer. Rotate/slide the power PCB away from the cage to clear the speaker and AC plug, Then rotate towards the Video board. Disaconnect 1 plug. The OTHER plug is SOLDERED and must be disconnected from the video processing board.
There you have it. It stumped me for about a half hour. No pry marks. Barely noticed the 2 slits in between the trims. Well, good luck. Happy Soldering.
PS: I opened mine because I assumed it had bad capacitors. It only powers on for a short short period of time.
Posted on Nov 17, 2009
Testimonial: "The instructions were very clear and step by step. Once apart, I couldn't see any signs of bulging caps so I tried resoldering some of the connection"
It could be a filter cap, but more than likely you have a bad light tube (skinny light bulb behind the LCD assembly). See if you have two tubes once you get in to see if the lamps are black on their ends... The black means that the tubes are burnt and is shorting out the high voltage power supply be being "carbonized" at the proximal end of the tube. This is most common reason for the short "on and back off" situation. The filter caps can be the issue too though, so if they look normal (not bulging into a basketball shape), check your fluorescent bulbs located on the photo-multiplier section of the screen (part that resembles a big flat block of clear plastic. The light bulbs look like a very long toothpick that is white with wires on each end of it... It is glass and fragile too. These are usually "taped" to the photomultiplier block with an either silver or black tape to keep the light from escaping from the end of the block.
To get into the case (was that your question to begin with?).. you need a plastic putty knife to pry the front and rear case loose by unlatching the latches which you can not see. Go from the back to the front to catch each latch one at a time, and do not pull on the case halves to pull apart as this will more than likely break the latches off. Putting back together is simply snapping the halves back together.. it is much easier to put together than to take apart, so be sure all is good before snapping back together.
Let me know if that helps.
Posted on Dec 01, 2014
There is no **** anywhere. Photos would be appreciated.
Posted on Oct 30, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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