Question about Coleman Powermate Powermate 5000W Generator

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I have a Coleman Vantage7000 with electric start. I put a new battery and new battery cables and a new starter solenoid switch on it. I still get nothing and my next step is to replace the starting key switch. Am I heading in the right direction to get this generator to start with the key switch? I have the oil dip stick showing full, so I believe that cut off wouldn't be the issue? Thanks, Ken in Montana

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  • kcclark_1 Nov 17, 2009

    Thanks "youdoit" for the quick info. Its a Briggs Stratton Vanguard V-Twin OHV 14 HP engine. The engine refuses to crank (not even a little click), I have pulled the recoil starter rope a couple of times, but do not have the strength to get it turning fast enough to start? I have check the ground from the battery terminal to the engine mounting assembly with a open circuit meter and it is good. Could you describe where this low oil cutoff switch is? Ken

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IF IT IS A HONDA ,KEN . JUST UN PLUG THE LOW OIL CUTOUT SWITCH JUST TO BE ON THE SAFE SIDE MANY OF THEM GIVE TROUBLE.
IS IT TURNING OVER AND JUST NOT STARTING,OR DOES IT REFUSE TO CRANK? IF THAT IS THE CASE CHECKTHAT YOU HAVE A GOOD EARTH CONTACT.LET ME KNOW WHAT MODEL THE MOTOR IS "YOUDOIT"

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

  • kerry littleton Nov 17, 2009

    hi ken ,i dont know where it is located on a briggs ,i am a dedicated honda person.but the easier way to check ,is to remove the spark plugput the high tention lead back on the plug,earth it out onthemotor some where and pul the rcoil tsart,no load on it as the plug is out, see if you have spark. in saying all that it is not realy necessary as it is the starter that is the problem.try to acertainif you have power to the starter.if so good! now, just a few weeks ago ,ifitted a new starter to a tractor no way could i get,even a click out of it. after stuffing around for an hour or so ,ireversrd the wires on the solenoid [not the pwer lead ] and bingo she spun over good as gold .i am not suggesting that is your problem but before continuing on, it may be worth checking. now to see if the ignition switch is working you need to be sure the is power there when you switch it on and then that the power is sent down to the solenoid when switched to the start position ,if not ,i would pull the switch out and short them together,to see if she spinsover ,let me know "youdoit"

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No power. Put in new fuse by battery and started right up. sat for a week and wont start again. Battery is fully charged. tried another new fuse


Hi, Traci and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Bank angle sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position.
5. Security alarm needs a reset.
6. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Electric starter shaft pinion gear is not engaging or over-running starter clutch slipping.
Good luck and have nice a day.

Jan 03, 2016 | Motorcycles

Tip

Trouble-shooting your Isuzu starter..


Basic operation of a starter:
Your engine's starter motor is an electrical motor that is used to rotate the engine in order to get it to fire up. This motor draws a large amont of current from the battery (in the order of 70 Amps and up). In order to supply power to the starter a solenoid is used, it acts as a switch between the battery and the starter motor. This solenoid also engages the starter gear with the engine's flywheel and disengages it once the engine is started. Because the circuit for the solenoid also draws a heavy current a further relay is needed to control it.
The diagram below shows the electrical layout of the starting system.
  • i : Battery
  • ii : Starter relay(located in the relay box in the engine compartment)
  • iii : Starter solenoid
  • iv : Starter incorporating solenoid and motor.
  • v : Engine
  • vi : Battery earth cable
  • vii : Engine earth cable
  • viii : Ignition fuse
  • ix : Starter fuse
  • x : Solenoid to starter supply cable
  • xi : Ignition switch
  • xii : Starter motor
When the ignition(xi) is turned it supplies power from the battery through fuse (viii) to the starter relay(ii).
The starter relay activates and supplies power to the starter solenoid(iii) via fuse (ix)
The starter solenoid activates and connects power from the battery to the starter via a short cable(x) between the solenoid and starter motor. This allows the starter motor to turn.

General trouble shooting.
Turn the ignition off.
1/ First you need to check that the fuses are intact.
Keep the ignition off. Place the vehicle in Neutral. Chock the wheels and engage the parking brake.
2/ To prove the starter motor, connect power from the battery positive to the cable (x). This must be done with jumper cables. Touch the jumper cable to the connector on the back of the solenoid where cable (x) connects. Take care not to short circuit the jumper cable to the engine or vehicle body. It can be a tight fit and might not always be possible. If you hear the starter motor spin then it is working along with the engine earth cable. If not, connect the negative lead of the jumper cable between the battery and the starter motor body or any other bare piece of metal on the engine and put the positive lead on cable (x) again. If the starter motor does not spin it needs to come out for repair/replacement. If it spins check both the battery earth cable and engine earth cable and repair where nescasary.
3/ Once the starter motor has been proved move on to the solenoid. Remove the thin wire from the solenoid. Using a small piece of wire, connect battery positive to the connector where you just took off the wire. The solenoid should kick in and the starter motor will turn the engine. If the solenoid does not kick in, remove the starter for repair/replacement of the solenoid. If the solenoid kicks in then replace the starter relay.

If the starting circuit still does not operate the fault will be in the wiring. This needs reasonable expertise and if you dont have a voltmeter handy is not advised.
Bear in mind on automatic transmission vehicles there is an additional switch (Mode switch) wired in between the ignition switch and the starter relay. This switch is on the transmission itself and if faulty will not allow the starter to operate even if steps 1 to 3 were successfull. The same goes for the anti theft/immobiliser system.

fd042ff.jpg
The following is specifically for Isuzu Trooper and Rodeo :
  • i : Battery
  • ii : Starter relay(located in the relay fuse box in the engine compartment designated X-17)
  • iii : Starter solenoid
  • iv : Starter incorporating solenoid and motor.
  • v : Engine
  • vi : Battery earth cable
  • vii : Engine earth cable
  • viii : 10A Starter fuse C-1(Fuse box: LH footwell on LHD vehicle, RH dash on RHD vehicle)
  • x : Solenoid to starter supply cable
  • xi : Ignition switch
  • xii : Starter motor
  • xiii : 80A Main fusible link FL-1(Relay fuse box)
  • xiv : 50 A Key SW fusible link FL-2(relay fuse box)
  • xv : Mode switch(A/T only - mounted on the side of the transmission) and for 6 cylinder manual transmission engines this is the clutch start switch mounted on the clutch pedal.
  • xvi : Anti theft system
  • B2 : B2 on ignition sitch
  • ST : ST on ignition switch
db79612.jpg


How to wire a relay

on Sep 17, 2010 | Isuzu Trooper Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

99 tahoe wont crank wont start with new battery


Does starter click? Try turning on headlamps and get someone to watch as you try to start car. If headlamps dim, likely bad starter or battery cable(s). If they don't dim, bad solenoid, starter switch, neutral safety switch. Try starting in neutral and jiggle shifter while trying. If it starts, replace neutral safety switch.

Dec 01, 2014 | 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

1982 Honda GL 1100 Gold Wing try to start and solenoid clicks


Hi, Anonymous you turn on the ignition switch press the starter button and all you get is the dreaded "CLICK" now before testing any electrical component in the Starter System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, must be 12.5 volts or better, voltage from the battery to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid can not drop more than 1/2 volt of battery voltage.
4. Disconnect spark plug cables, with a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 9.6 volts DC. If the voltage is below 9.6 the battery is faulty and must be replaced. I "HIGHLY" recommend a maintenance free AGM battery typically they have more amperage for cranking.
5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
7. Faulty starter, bench test starter with a 12-volt battery if negative function check, decontaminate and undercut armature commutator segments as necessary, check segments with an ohmmeter probe each one and the segment next to it for shorts. Have the armature tested with a growler and field coils, and brush plate with an ohm-meter for opens, shorts or grounds. Replace brushes if less than .438" It is generally cheaper to overhaul/refurbish a starter motor than buying a new one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
GL1100 starter solenoid only clicks when push the start button
What to do When Your Motorcycle Won Start
Honda GoldWing GL1100 Service Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda GL1100 1982 Owner Manual

Jun 02, 2017 | 1982 Honda GL 1100 Gold Wing

1 Answer

Have a 97 sportster that wont start just strong click, put in new battery, new ground cable, new positive cable, took green wire off starter jumped it to top and starter spins, could solenoid be shot?


Hi Mikegibso792, and the usual suspects are:
1.Ignition/Light Key Switch not in IGNITION position.
2.Engine Stop switch in the OFF position.
3.Discharged battery, loose or corroded connections check negative cable at both ends. (solenoid chatters).
4. Bank Angle Sensor tripped and Ignition/Light Key Switch not cycled to Off and then back to on.
5. Starter control circuit, relay or solenoid faulty.
6. Electric starter shaft pinion gear not engaging or over-running clutch slipping.
7. Security alarm not disarming
For a prime suspect please visit website below and good Luck.
Set Change Override Transport Harley Security Alarm PIN Code No Key Fob...

Jun 24, 2011 | 1993 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883

1 Answer

My craftsman 15.5 HP 42"


Hi government32, seeing how you just installed a new battery I'll assume you cleaned all the connections. Not cranking at all sounds like 3 possibilities, Key switch, starter solenoid, or starter. Lets check starter first. Using a jumper cable, jump from positive battery post to starter motor (you'll see the connection on the motor where cable is connected,thats where you hook jumper), if it cranks the starter motor is ok. If it doesn't thats the problem. If it does crank check the starter solenoid, using a jumper cable jump across from side to side (the 2 big terminals). If it cranks now the solenoid is bad or the electrical connections are dirty. There are also 1 or 2 small connections on solenoid from the key switch, make sure they are clean. If these 2 components check out the key switch is bad or the connections on it are dirty. (its usually not the switch).Hope this helps you.

Jan 03, 2011 | Garden

2 Answers

99 suburban wont start, power to starter, only clicks. new starter. lights all work dash warnings seat belt alarm etc. owned for four years never had any issues.


If you installed a new starter and your getting battery volts at the starter wire on the soleniod switch while trying to start the engine, then you bought a bad starter, Good luck, Gary

Jul 28, 2010 | 1999 GMC Suburban

3 Answers

Vehicle will click but not start, tried juming still clicks , only 10000 original milesany suggestions


Assuming your battery is properly charged and has a good connection, it's your starter solenoid (relay) that has failed.

The starter solenoid receives a large electric current from the car battery and a small electric current from the ignition switch. When the ignition switch is turned on, a small electric current is sent to the starter solenoid. This causes the starter solenoid to close a pair of heavy contacts, thus relaying a large electric current to the starter motor, which in turn sets the engine in motion.

If a starter solenoid receives insufficient power from the battery, it will fail to start the motor, and may produce a rapid clicking or clacking sound. The lack of power can be caused by a low or dead battery, by corroded or loose connections in the battery cable, or by a damaged positive (red) cable from the battery. Any of these problems will result in some, but not enough, power being sent to the solenoid, which means that the solenoid will simply make a clicking sound, rather than setting the starter motor in motion.

If these items are all okay, it is likely you need to replace the solenoid.

Jan 10, 2010 | 2004 Ford Econoline

2 Answers

Starter


You need to check and see if when you turn the key to start that you get current at the starter soldnoid. If not check the safty switch and the ignition switch. If you get current check and see if it goes thru to the starter if not replace soldnoid if it does check the starter itself. These are all electrical and can fail at any time without any warning. Good luck.

Nov 17, 2009 | 2006 Ford F-150

2 Answers

Electric problem


seems like the start wire is being fed by 12v --check the start wire for shorting to a hot wire ,maybe the at the starter harness connector.With the start wire disconnected check voltage at the start wire end--should have no voltage.Good-luck

Aug 22, 2009 | 1999 Toyota Corolla

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