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Replace kenmore washing machine bellows - Kenmore Washing Machines

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Open door look at outer part u will find wire retainer with spring on it remove it remember where spring is located. now pull bellows louse on outer edge and fold back to inside of tub. the inter side should have a screw clamp on it lousen this and remove bellows becareful to notice the 12:00and or 6:00postion .reinstall.in reverse order . u may need a extra hand on the outer retainer. hope this helps haundi24

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks for the guidance. We replaced it just as you described. Saved me $127 service call!!"

  • msuazo9 Nov 06, 2010

    Excellent! All worked out. A bit tricky replace it but took awhile to figure out. Thanks!

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: How to replace the door bellows seal ?

did hte rear clamp come off or just the front spring. assuming its just front spring.carefully reinstall the boot over the front lip assy . easy enough!!here comes the fun!! the spring itself goes to the bottom of the rim.So hang the wire over the top of bellow and feed into the lip evenly as you go down both sides as soon as you get your hands to the 9oclock and 3 oclock positon I then change grip on the spring (use the tips of my fingers palms facing front assy and strech whole pushing down and in. I used to find small spring style clamps would work great for holding the wire in place till it would "pop" into place. a third hand is also very useful to hold in place .

Posted on Mar 12, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore HE2 Washing Machine Leaking

Have you looked behind the bellow under the folds to make sure there's no rips or tears? The bellow could appear okay on the outside, but still could have a tear somewhere out of plain view. I had this happen to me before.

The inner seal from the bellow to the tub could also be loose now. If you said a garment got stuck and the washer continued through the cycle, this could have loosen the seal where it attaches to the wash tub. You would need to tighten the band clamp around the facing of the tub if this is the case.

A good way in determining where the leak may be coming from is to remove the lower panel under the door. Start a wash cycle and watch to see where the water is coming out.

Now...if the tub seal is loose it may require some disassembly to get to. If you're going to go the route of disassembling the washer front, and have never replaced the bellow before, it probably wouldn't hurt to replace it anyway. My rationale: It's better to disassemble the washer once, rather than possibly having to do it all over again in the near future.

You can get a replacement bellow at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Door and Latch Parts" section for item number 1 (part #8540952). It only costs about $32.

If you need instructions on how to replace the bellow, just go to my profile and look under my "Tips and Tricks". There is a write I posted there giving step-by-step instructions. If you cannot find it, or have any further questions, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps answer some of your questions.

Posted on May 04, 2008

woobie dog
  • 1273 Answers

SOURCE: replace the bellow in my front loader whirlpool washing machine

Hello. You don't need any special tools to do this. Feel around the edge of the bellows seal until you find a spring in the groove behind the face of the seal. Using a small screwdriver, lever it over the edge of the seal, and slowly work the ring over the seal face. Peel the seal off of the mounting flange, and roll it inside the drum. Remove the front of the washer, and remove the spring on the inner part of the seal. Replace the seal, making sure that it is oriented in the same manner as the one you took off. Reassemble in the reverse order. There are a number of very good videos on YouTube. Type in "washing machine repair" and you'll find different chapters in what amounts to a series on repair.....good stuff.
Hopes this is helpful to you. Best regards, --W/D-- please feel free to rate this carefully hand crafted answer! Thanx!

Posted on Aug 18, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore Elite HE3 Model 42822 has a leak at the rubber bellow. Do I have to remove the front panel to replace the bellow or just the bottom panel and the spring outside the bellow.

A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn’t cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.


Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 11, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: how to replace bellow seal in kenmore he2t washer

A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn't cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.


Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.


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Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Oct 01, 2010

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1 Answer

My Kenmore front load washer is leaking water "sometimes" from the door.


You need to replace the "Bellow" on the front of the washing machine. Here is a link to the part.

Nov 27, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

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How do I go about replacing the door seal (bellows) on my kenmore elite washer?


The following link explains how to access and replace the bellow one:


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574186-installing_a_door_bellow_on_a_front_load

A replacement bellow (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices vary between sites so shop and compare. The first three sites on the list, have helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you with locating and identifying any parts you may need.


NOTE: The manufacturer recommends that you leave the door OPEN between washes to, not only allow the bellow to keep from becoming permanently stretched, but also to allow the wash tub to breath to prevent mold and mildew from forming. This will extend the life of the bellow and minimize any odors in your washer.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope this helps you.

Jun 27, 2010 | Kenmore HE2 Plus Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Door seal tangled in wash load.


It sounds like one of your retaining clamps may have come loose or something sharp may have snagged the door bellow and pulled it loose. You will need to inspect the bellow for any potential rips or tears and ensure the front and rear clamps that hold it in place are still intact and useable. You may be able to simply reattach the bellow and won't require parts. The following link explains how to replace a door bellow and lists the steps required for accessing and installing the clamps:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385210-replacing_door_bellow_kenmore_elite

This isn't difficult, but it can be tedious. If you require replacement parts, you can order from any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

The part numbers for Kenmore Elite are as follows:

Door Bellow: 8181850
Front Bellow Clamp: 8182211
Rear Bellow Clamp: 8182210

All these sites offer great service if you determine you need parts. Shop around for the best prices.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 03, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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How to change bellows on Kenmore front loading washer


First remove the bottom kick plate at bottom. Then tear off the front of the bellows from around the door. Inside there is a big hose clamp holding the inside if it. Remove completely.
Now,put the inside on first, Tightening the inside clamp. Easy so far, right?
My trick to the outer spring:put a little liquid detergent or soap on out bellow where spring attaches,start at top and work it down and around, use needlenose pliers to help with hard part. Good Luck.

Mar 13, 2009 | Washing Machines

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Kenmore HE2 plus 11047532601


If it's stackable, you'll want to start by removing the dryer.
Open the door and remove the outer bellow spring around the bellow to release it from the cabinet lip. At this point lean the machine back to give more space between the drum and the cabinet.
Remove the kickplate for easier access and to visually check for leaks later.
At the top/right of the bellows (close to the tub) loosen the bellow to tub clamp and pull out the bellow.
Install the new bellow starting at the top by aligning the marks. Work your way around until bellows is properly seated snug against the tub.
Replace the tub to bellow clamp and tighten it (make sure the bellow stays snug against the tub while tightening the clamp). Once in place, lay the machine back to level and reinstall the front of the bellows to the cabinet with the outer bellow spring clamp.
With towels handy (just in case), let the machine fill and agitate for a few minutes and check for water leaks. If all is well, re-install the kickplate and wash some laundry.
Good luck!

Feb 22, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore Bellow Replacement


Make sure the drain holes are clear in the bottom of the bellow. Also, make sure the bellow is aligned properly. There should have been an alignment arrow at the 12 o'clock position. Hope this helps.

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How do I Replace the bellow on a Kenmore 4646


There is a spring that holds the gasket on .Pop that spring off and the gasket should come very easy.

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