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Fisher and Paykel double drawer dishwasher

Hi,
Can someone help me solve this problem. Last time I had a problem I was pretty successful in solving it on this site. I was running a reg wash on the top drawer of my Fisher&Paykel when I suddendly had to stop it in the middle of a wash to add more dishes (something I do all the time) suddenly both screens started beeping with an F1 along with a wrench. It sounds like the motor is running full blast and it just keeps going on both top and bottom. I tried shutting the power for a few hours but once you turn the power back on, same thing happens, please help!! I can't function with out my dishwashers.
FM

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  • Darv Feb 24, 2008

    Yes, we have the same problem, however I am not sure if my wife opened the door during the cycle? I checked the manual and the blinking F1 (top and bottom) is due to the "flood" switch being activated.



    I was thinking that there is a reset switch that a normal person could trigger without contacting a repairman.

  • mzds0d Mar 28, 2008

    I have the same problem, is there is way to re-setup when error F1 Flood switch has been activated ?

  • drdawn Apr 28, 2008

    dishwasher flooding, f1 activated , cleaned out per maintenance, no help. How do you fix it?

  • Anonymous May 09, 2008

    Same issue - both units flash F1, and you have to turn the power off to shut it up. I think it's deliberately designed by F&P to make sure you call for service, because water and electricity can be an unhealthy mixture :-).
    Most likely there's water on the base under the lower drawer, but the real issue is finding and fixing the cause of it, e.g. Split drain hose/blocked drain hose/filler overflow/pump failure, etc

  • tmcminn47 Jun 27, 2008

    Our service man is also enjoying the F1 problem. He's been here twice, replaced 2 motors and the hose. There is no water in the catch-pan. Now we are occasionally surprised when the dishwasher starts flashing the code for no apparent or overt reason on our part. Both drawers are closed. No one has touched the dishwasher for hours and today, when they began flashing, the dishwashers had not be used in 24 hours.

  • abelow Dec 07, 2008

    I have the same problem. I have been trying to dry out the catch pan in the hope it will fix itself but after two days it is still giving the same flashing F1 and running the pump motor.

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Hi. I am a plumber who has had this problem before. To reset the flood switches you need to remove the bottom dish drawer to be able to access the reset buttons. To remove the drawer you press in the rectangle buttons and slide them back under the drawer, they are located right behind the front panel at the bottom of the drawer. It may help to have someone help hold the drawer for you. Once they are slid back all the way place the bottom drawer on the floor to the left side of the washer as you look at it. This will give you the access you need. Lie down on the floor so you can see in the bottom. There you will see a white coloured plastic box on each side, one is for the top drawer the other is for the bottom drawer. Make sure the power is off to the dishwasher. Place your finger underneath the box and you will feel a small pin/lever. This is attached to the magnetic flood switch and resets it when you click it one way and then the other. Once you have done this turn the machine back on before you put in the bottom drawer as if it does not work then you will need to activate it maybe a couple of times. Oncw the F1 alarm disappears you are good to go. Place the drawer back in the opposite way to removal. Slide one rack forward and rest the drawer on it. Then slide the other side out and it will snap lock into position. This procedure literally takes me about 3 minutes and should save you about $120 for a serviceman to come out. The principal is the same on all dishwashers its just a matter of locating the reset switch. All the best and save yourselves a fortune.

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

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As follow-on to the 'best solution', the Kitchen Aid double drawer has this problem, but does not have a reset switch. So, we pulled off the circuit board cover (removal instructions on the cream colored cover) and used a hair dryer to dry out the contact / sensor - wherever it is on the board. Note that the manual has good instructions for removing the bottom drawer and reinstalling is a snap too. Only problem was to remove the bottom black kick-plate - once that was off the bottom drawer came out. Good idea to move it to the left. Total fix time was one half hour. Thanks for the help

Posted on Jun 09, 2010

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I HAVE HAD THIS EXACT PROBLEM SEVERAL TIMES-I ALSO HAD SEVERAL YUK YUK SERVICEMEN HERE TO FIX THE PROBLEM-WELL ONE DAY I WAS ALSO COMPLAINING TO A SERVICEMAN AND HE SAID- WELL ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS CHECK THAT EVERYTHING THAT YOU PUT IN THE WASHER HAS TO BE BELOW THE TOP NOTCH-IF ANYTHING IS ABOVE- THEN YOU GET COMPLETE SHUT DOWN, F1 BEEPING AND IT WONT STOP UNTIL THE WATER IS DRIED UP- GOOD LUCK ITS WORKED FOR US FOR THE PAST TWO YEARS

Posted on Feb 12, 2009

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Tip

Solve cross-draining problems with your Doule-Dishdrawer permanently!


Are you experiencing cross-draining problems with your older Fisher Paykel double dish drawer? Have you had a succession of technicians and service companies try to solve this problem, only to have it return again?
There is a reason this is happening to you and there is a way to fix it FOREVER.
In most cases, this problem can be traced to an improper installation. Fisher Paykel double-dishdrawers are in effect TWO dishwashers with two seperate drain hoses. Often times they are installed with an "air gap" which is required by many municipalities for code compliance. Installers who are used to installing "single" dishwashers often install a "single air gap" with a Y-adapter that connects both drawers to a single air gap, and to be fair, this is shown in the install instructions for the product. However it will usually not work for very long. The reason being, there is a small neoprene "check valve" in the base of the pump on both drawers. It is designed to keep the water from the last drain cycle from running back into the machine once the cycle stops. It was never designed to prevent the cross-drain condition. Over time the pressure from the water that wants to come from the other drawer will weaken that flap, causing it to "leak" and the result is when one drawer is run, the dirty water from one drawer drains partly into the other drawer. (YUCK!) Most techs will replace the flap, thinking they have solved the problem, and for awhile, yes, it will.
But this can get kind of expensive having to call for repairs every year or so.

The proper and permanent fix for this situation if to install a DUAL AIR GAP which can be purchased from Fisher Paykel parts: http://fisherpaykelparts.net/index.php?categoryid=1&productid=7

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This device is totally "co-axial" in design and will not allow water from one drawer to get into the other. It also is "kosher" in that some Jewish families have a "meat" and "dairy" dishwasher and the two can never be mixed. If there is cross-draining going on, that is "not Kosher!" (pun yes, reality also!) This part will insure no cross-contamination.
These dual air gaps come with everything you need to replace a single air gap, and fit in the same hole. You can even transfer most decorative style covers that the customer may have on the single air gap (such as Bisque/Brushed Aluminum/Brass etc.) The feedback we have gotten from our own customers after instaling one of these is extremely positive, some going so far as to say it is like they have a new appliance, as it is now cleaning better than ever and there is no longer an objectionable odor coming from the drawer.

This is an excellent and PERMANENT code-compliant solution for cross-draining on older Fisher Paykel Dishdrawers. Try it. You'll like it!



on Dec 14, 2008 | Fisher DD603B / DD603W / DD603H Dishwasher

1 Answer

Fisher paykel cross draining


As the drawers share a common outlet to the kitchen sink drain, it is the drain water from bottom drawer going to top drawer. Can happen if the drain hoses are not following the correct specifications for installation. An air gap kit is available to solve the problems.

Refer
http://www.genuineapplianceparts.net/product/WT50/WT50-Dual-Air-Gap-Kit/?preadd=action&key=WT50

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The scum, film and white residue problems have started since the reduction of phosphates in dishwasher detergents.

Here is a tip that will help you to solve the problem of films, residue, and scum in your dishwasher.

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You need to remove the bottom drawer and dry out the water with towels and a hair dryer when this is done it should operate normally. most likely when you pulled out the drawer the water sloshed back and out of the drawer making the dishdrawer think it was flodding turning on all drain pumps. If you look at the back of the drawer about two inches from the floor you will see an oval hole off center to the right. That is where the water got out.

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