Question about Tippmann 98 Custom Act Paintball Gun

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More then one ball coming out

I have something like 2,3, and even 4 balls coming out of my tippman 98 at once when its fired.

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Your "ball detent" has worn out. This is a little rubber nipple inside the breech of your gun (where the balls go into the gun from your hopper) that has torn. This is a normal wear and tear item and will cost you only a few dollars to repair. You have to buy this part from your local paintball pro shop they will have it.

Posted on Feb 26, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a '95 Chevy Silverado 2500 7.4L 2wd, I seem to be going through ball joints rather quickly. I replace them at least once a year. Is this something that is problematic with this model or is


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1 Answer

Paintballs will fall out of the barrel of my tippmann 98 custom, randomly when the gun is not being fired. I am not sure how to fix this, or if it can be fixed. Mechanically the gun fires and aims great....


Get another ball detente from ebay, this one is the cheapest one I could find.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-TIPPMANN-C-98-BALL-DETENT-A5-BALL-DETENT-/370469346400?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5641b19c60

Jun 26, 2010 | Tippmann 98 Custom Act Paintball Gun

1 Answer

Balls fall out of my tippman 98 custom when i put them in. what do i need to do to fix it?


There's a ball stop nubbin just in front of where the ball drops. You may have lost yours and you'll need to get another one.

If that's there it could just be the ball itself. Paintballs and barrels come in a variety of sizes, so you may have to sample a few different kinds to find what works best for your barrel and doesn't roll out the front on you.

Good luck!

Play hard, play safe, play with honor!

8^)

Apr 17, 2010 | Tippmann 98 Custom Act Paintball Gun

1 Answer

I need to replace my ball joints. can you give me some tips on how to do this? I have never done this before and i would appreciate some pointers on what i need to do to get the job done. Thank you very...


UPPER BALL JOINTS
  1. Raise and support the truck with jackstands. Remove wheel.
  2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
  3. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud and loosen, but do not remove the stud nut.
  4. Using a forcing-type ball joint separator tool, loosen the ball stud in the steering knuckle. When the stud is loose, remove the tool and the stud nut. It may be necessary to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain clearance.
  5. On R-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1 / 8 in. drill bit. Remove the ball joint assembly.
  6. On C-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1 / 8 in. drill bit to start a pilot hole. Drill out the rivets with a 1 / 2 in. bit. Remove the ball joint assembly using a screw-type forcing tool.

To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
  1. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball joint nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  2. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut as follows:

    1 / 2 ton trucks: 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), plus the additional torque to align the cotter pin. Do not exceed 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) and never back the nut off to align the pin. 3 / 4 and 1 ton trucks: 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm), plus additional torque necessary to align the cotter pin. Do not exceed 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) and never back off the nut to align the pin.
  3. On C-series vehicles, tighten the ball joint nuts as follows:

    1988-90 models, tighten the nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) for the 15 and 25 Series and 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) for 35 the Series. 1991-98 models, tighten the nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
  4. On C-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut to 90 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988-90 models, 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-95 models and 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) on 1996-98 models.
  5. Install a new lube fitting and lubricate the new joint.
LOWER BALL JOINTS
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
  3. Remove the wheel.
  4. Remove the lower stud cotter pin and loosen, but do not remove, the stud nut.



0900c1528008f64b.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the lower ball joint using a suitable tool-R-Series shown, C-series similar


0900c1528008f64c.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 3: Use an appropriate tool to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle-R and C-Series


0900c1528008f64d.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 4: Installing the lower ball joint-R and C-Series
  1. Loosen the ball joint with a forcing-type ball joint tool. It may be necessary to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain enough clearance.
  2. When the stud is loose, remove the tool and ball stud nut.
  3. Install a spring compressor on the coil spring for safety.
  4. Pull the brake disc and knuckle assembly up and off the ball stud and support the upper arm with a block of wood.
  5. Remove the ball joint from the control arm with a ball joint fork or another suitable tool.

To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
  1. On R-series vehicles, start the new ball joint into the control arm. Position the bleed vent in the rubber boot facing inward.
  2. On C-series vehicles, force the ball joint into position using a screw-type forcing tool. The ball joint will bottom in the control arm. The grease seal should face inboard.
  3. On R-series vehicles, turn the screw until the ball joint is seated in the control arm.
  4. Lower the upper arm and match the steering knuckle to the lower ball stud.
  5. On C-series vehicles, start ball stud into the knuckle. Install the nut and tighten it to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) on 1988-90 models; 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-94 models and 94 ft. lbs. (128 Nm) on 1995-98 models. Advance the nut to align the cotter pin hole and insert the new cotter pin. NEVER back off the nut to align the cotter pin hole; always advance it!
  6. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut to 80-100 ft. lbs. (108-135 Nm), plus the additional torque necessary to align the cotter pin hole. Do not exceed 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) or back the nut off to align the holes with the pin.
  7. Install a new lube fitting and lubricate the new joint.

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