Question about Mitsubishi WD-52725 52". Rear Projection HDTV

1 Answer

Bad light engine

I had a tech come out and replace the ballast , check my chassis , and he told me my light engine is bad , he said i may just need the color wheel , he said it seems stuck or something , he is not mitsubishi certified , but he checked my power board and all , i get the 34 lamp abnormality error , can anyone offer any assistance to this , thanks ,

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  • 6 more comments 
  • babyboy79 Jan 09, 2008

    yes it has a new buld in it , and he tried to fire it up and he said the light engine was bad , it started up like i heard a noise and it stopped , and he said the light engine is jammed or the color wheel is bad , im not sure if he didnt know what he was doing , it has a new bulb in it ,

  • babyboy79 Jan 09, 2008

    thanks ,

  • babyboy79 Jan 09, 2008

    do you know anyway to determine if it really is my light engine that is bad ?

  • babyboy79 Jan 10, 2008

    ok that place you refered me to told me to send it to them and they would repair it for 375 , but i have no idea how to get the light engine out at all , any ideas or any info that would walk me through it ?

  • babyboy79 Jan 15, 2008

    my email address is . thanks ,

  • babyboy79 Jan 15, 2008

    thanks i appreciate it ,

  • babyboy79 Jan 15, 2008

    there is no way to verify that is it my light engine that is bad is there ? i get the lamp abnormality error but im not sure ,

  • babyboy79 Jan 15, 2008

    im not sure how to do that , the tech i had come out said the power supply was fine , he check a board on my chassis he said and said the power was fine , im totally lost , i dont want to tear this light engine apart if i dont have to ,



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Did you replace the bulb? Your supose to replace the bulb when you do the ballast but a lot of techs do not.

Posted on Jan 09, 2008

  • 3 more comments 
  • Larry  Dillon
    Larry Dillon Jan 09, 2008

    They rebuild those light engines at Go there and get the telephone number and see what they charge to do it. A light engine is NOT a sub assembly you should attempt to repair without a clean room. Good Luck

  • Larry  Dillon
    Larry Dillon Jan 10, 2008

    If the power supply was checked, and the thermal sensors were good, I would say the light engine Could be bad. Hard call though. There really is no for sure way of telling without checking several things first. How much electronic troubleshooting do you have? Can you follow a schematic and circuit flow? Can you use a multimeter and an oscilloscope and have access to one? This type of repair is NOT a cut and dry thing.I'm afraid.

  • Larry  Dillon
    Larry Dillon Jan 15, 2008

    If you leave an e-mail address, I can share a factory service manual for this unit. That should help you.

  • Larry  Dillon
    Larry Dillon Jan 15, 2008

    The service manual is on its way!

  • Larry  Dillon
    Larry Dillon Jan 15, 2008

    check the voltages on the ballast, make sure you are getting the proper supply voltages.



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1 Answer

Own a mitsubishi WD-52525 52 in. Rear Projection HD TV. Already been through the "blinking light of death" problem about 2 yrs. ago. Now have a steady red lamp light. Purchased new lamp, installed, and...

You have to take the TV apart. Pull the electrical chassis out and look for bad electrolytic caps on the boards. sounds like caps on the power supply board are bad. You can tell if they are bad by the fact that their tops are puffed up and they may or may not be leaking brown fluid. Compare them against the other caps on the boards and you will see how they have flat tops.

BUT before you take the TV apart you can check the error codes by pushing "menu" and "Device" at the same time and holding for about 10 seconds. The status light will blink two numbers. ex. one flash pause two flashes is 12 Error Code Probable Cause

12 No error detected
22 Recovery from momentary Reset
32 Lamp Cover open
33 Air Filter Cover open
34 Lamp abnormality
35 Chassis Fan failure
36 Exhaust (Back Cover) or Lamp Ballast Fan failure
37 Engine (DMD or Lamp) Fan failure
38 Excess Lamp Temperature
39 Excess DMD Temperature
41 Short Detected
44 DVI Cable (between Chassis and Engine) disconnected

or use the table below -


You can buy replacement caps from Mouser electronics online

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I replace the lamp into my mitsubishi 61 inch tv lamp number 915P28010 however the lamp took to the tv. Now when I hit the power button the tv will not come on but u can hear the fans runnin. I had someone...


is your TV making any strange sounds like clicks or any thing else?

YES? ....making noises is the "Ballast"


if you see half of your tv black or out of shape is the light engine!


so i think it's going to be the ballast..

let me know i can help you more..

good luck!

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1 Answer

How to replace lamp ballast 46hm84

Assuming you can get the part, here is the procedure to replace the lamp ballast:

1. Make sure TV is un-plugged and the lamp has cooled for at least one hour before continuing.

2. Place the TV on a flat surface with sufficient space to the rear to allow you to slide out the chassis.

3. Open and remove the lamp access door on the left-side of the TV (facing the front) by loosening the thumb screw. Behind the door you will find the lamp assembly which must be removed by loosening two screws (one on either side of the lamp base). Pull out lamp unit, careful not to touch the lamp or bump the unit. Set aside.

4. There are 13 screws that hold the lower-rear cover onto the cabinet. Use a 1/4 inch nut driver to remove these screws. Nine of them are along the top and bottom at the rear and another 4 on the left and right hand ends of the cabinet just to the rear of the front panel.

5. Next, note that the chassis is in two sections; left and right. The lamp ballast is part of the light engine assembly that is on the right chassis. You will save yourself much grief if you slide out both left and right chassis assemblies. There are 4 screws through the jack panel that hold the left-side chassis to the cabinet. Remove these screws. Also, there are two screws mounted vertically (one on either side) of the jack panel that hold the left-side chassis to the bottom of the cabinet. Remove these screws as well. Note that they are different from the other screws.

6. The right side of the chassis is held by 5 screws. First, remove the three screws that are holding the verticle metal brace and remove the brace. Note that there is a cable tie connected to this brace. Be careful not to cut or exert too much pressure on this cable tie or the cable running through it. Next, remove the remaining metal screws holding the right chassis.

7. At the top of the open cabinet just behind the metal brace that has need removed, you will see another metal screw that holds a light shield in place. This shield has several small wires that run through guides. Carefully remove these small wires from the guides remove the screw and gently remove the shield taking note how the shield is supported so you can re-install it again easily.

8. At the left side of the jack panel towards the front of the cabinet, you will notice some wire guides with wires routed through them. Carefully remove these wires from the guides so you can pull out the chassis without putting strain on the wires.

9. CAREFULLY, start to slide out both chassis sections, left and right. Be careful not to pull any wires. If you notice a wire that is becoming tight, stop and make sure you take the strain of off the wire before continuing. You will most likely not be able to fully remove both chassis. You will not have to in order to replace the ballast.

10. The ballast assembly is located in the right-rear portion of the light engine assembly. It is held on to the circuit board by four plastic posts and retaining clips, one on each corner. The projection lens is part of the light engine assembly and is exposed. DO NOT TOUCH the lens with your fingers or tools. Before you remove the ballast, you must remove a metal piece that covers the heat sink. There is one screw on each side of this cover. The one on the left is difficult to reach with your fingers so use a magnetic screwdriver if you have one. If not, use some kind of sticky substance on the point of the screw driver so the screw will lift up with it. Remove the metal cover. Next, remove the two screws that hold the brown lamp socket to it's base and carefully remove the lamp socket. Also, there is a small white cable connector on the right-rear section of the ballast that needs to be CAREFULLY removed. Do not pull by the wires; use a needle-nosed pliers to grasp the plug and gently wiggle if off the connector. Gently move the white plastic clips at each corner and lift off the ballast assembly.

11. When installing the replacement ballast, be careful to gently seat the ballast by exerting pressure only on the four corners where the posts are. In this way you won't crack the circuit board. Replace that small cable connector, the lamp socket (it's key-wayed so it cannot be installed wrong), and the metal cover over the heat sink.

12. Take you time and follow your steps in reverse order. The both sides of the chassis must be slid into the cabinet together to avoid too much tension on small wires. Notice that there is a verticle tab on the light engine chassis that must be aligned on the right side of a veticle guide that comes down from the top of the cabinet enclosure. If you do not have the tab on the right side, the chassis will not fully seat back into the cabinet. Replace the light shield, route the small wires through the guides and also those on the left side of the jack panel, replace all screws and braces.

13. Replace the lamp assembly and replace the lamp door and hand-tighten the thumb screw. The set should fire up. If it does not, the problem may be with the light engine in which case it will not be worth the expense to fix.

Good luck and take your time.

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