Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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Freezer fan made loud continuous noise so when I checked there was ice below the location where the ice forms and ice had formed large chunks attached to the back of the ice collector bin. I also have no water coming out of the door dispenser

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  • MGG Nov 16, 2009

    I am defrosting as I type.  Lots of water dripping from the ice maker.  Where will I find info on the location of the filters?  It seems more plausible that this could be a filter problem and a lack of continuous water suppy.

  • MGG Nov 17, 2009

    Thank you for your insight - the timer will have to be replaced.

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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

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I believe the system needs a full defrost. Technically you should defrost the entire fridge/freezer unit once a year. If this has an auto-defrost feature, the defrost-timer may be faulty. You can check it with an ohmmeter. You can get parts and manual at repairclinic.com or partselect.com along with more info.

The water lines to the door may be frozen as well. The inlet water lines to the fridge/freezer has a filter in it that also should be replaced often. If it doesn't get good water flow, the water could freeze up.

Posted on Nov 16, 2009

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Nov 17, 2009

    You can get parts, manual, diagrams, and more tips at repairclinic.com or partselect.com

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