Question about Viking Kitchen Ranges
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Thanks for providing the full model number, which allows us to look up part numbers and see exploded views of your product.
Most likely the bake ignitor is bad (even if it still glows, it may not draw enough amperage to allow the gas safety valve to open). One way you can test this on your model is to swap out the broil ignitor for the bake ignitor, as they are the same part number on your model. (part number WB13T10045) The broiler is normally used much less than the oven, so the part does not fail very often on the broiler. You will have to take the cover off the floor of the oven, then the flame spreader, to reach the burner area. The ignitor is the rectangular part at the back, on the side of the burner. (only two wires to deal with) (By the way, for future reference, your model number ends is SS, as in stainless steel, not a 55)
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
It is the burner control (behind the knob). The triac in the control has failed. $50 item, 10 minute change. Just make note which wire goes to which terminal.
I doubt that it is the control board, as the board has little to do with the stove top, but rather controls the display and the oven temperature/feedback monitoring.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Feb 26, 2009
SOURCE: oven quit working
Hi. this is common in many old gas range ovens. There is a set of coils that are attached to the gas valve assembly. These coils , when activated and operational, open and close the main and secondary valves in this unit. They are controlled by the main ERC(clock/oven control board). I recommend checking these coils and there respective wiring harnesses. if the clips and wires are worn and corroded, simply replace the entire wire harness.
Now, if the wiring harness and wires that are connected to the coils look good and there are no signs of corrosion on the wires and connector clips, this will confirm that the coils have failed and you will need to replace them.
You can also preform an additional test with a multimeter. simply connect your multimeter or voltage meter to both terminal posts located on the coils. once your meter is connected, start the oven cycle. you should register some sort of current during this test at this time. if the current is sufficient and the coils do not initiated the valve action, this will confirm coil failure. if the meter dosen't register a current during oven operation, this will confirm ERC(control) failure. you will have to replace the Oven control board in this case.
The Most common issue in this situation will most defiantly be the coil assembly and not the control.
Please rate and god bless:)
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
SOURCE: Broiler won't light
Usually, when an oven won't broil, it's because the broil igniter is weak or burned out. The igniter is a small, round or rectangular device, about 1 inch by 4 to 8 inches. It's near the burner itself.
The burner is the tube-type device the gas flows through before it's ignited. It has many small holes on the sides to let the gas, when ignited, form a long, low flame. If the igniter is weak, if it glows red but doesn't get hot enough, or if it's burned out, the gas doesn't flow to the burner and the burner won't ignite. If this is the problem, you may need to replace the igniter or the safety valve. Usually the igniter is to blame.
Posted on Aug 07, 2009
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