Question about Lutron Toggler Single Pole 600 Watt Preset Dimmer With Nightlight - White

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Continuous ground wire problem

How do I thread/wind the ground wire if it is continuous and connects to two switches? Can't wind the ground wire around anything using the area provided...thanks

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What you do is to put a pigtail on each switch and use a wire nut/Scothlock to join to all the ground wires in the box.

Posted on Nov 15, 2009

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I don't know your specific fan or switch.

Following link is TYPICAL illustration of 3-wire fan switch wiring:

Three way switch is designed to match TYPICAL fan motor windings.
Motor windings are insulated copper wire wrapped around metal fan housing, similar to electromagnet you can make by wrapping wire around a nail.

Inside the fan motor are two windings.
Winding 1 for low speed.
Winding 2 for medium speed.
And when both windings are combined, that makes high speed.

You have to test your switch.
Usually the hot lead connects to red. So the red connects to each of the other wires.
Then pull the chain and use continuity tester between red wire and other wires to see how the switch is set up.

Jun 27, 2011 | Westinghouse Electric Westinghouse...


Generator Not Producing Power ? Stator Winding

There are 4 requirements that have to be met before a generator is able to produce power. Due to number of questions that have been asked, a Coleman PowerMate 1500-1850 with a Briggs and Stratton Engine will be used here.

1) The Engine has to be turning at correct speed
2) Field Winding (Rotor) on the alternator must be energized
3) AC Winding (Stator) must create a voltage in presence of magnetic field
4) Output passes through Safety Devices before it reaches an outlet.

This Tip will cover the Stator Winding.

The stator winding is the winding that is around the outside of the rotor. It doesn't usually move. Previously, the alternator design was called a revolving armature, in which the field was stationary (outside), and the stator (armature) was the rotating member. This quickly was replaced, eventually, by the revolvingfield configuration, since the brushes carry a relatively small DCcurrent, rather than a larger AC current with destructive arcing. Brushes were prone to failure due to high wear.

In the revolving field architecture,there are primarily 3 types of alternators: Single Output, MultiOutput, and MultiPhase.

The single output alternator is just that, it outputs a single voltage. Typically, it will be either120vac (60Hz), or a single phase 240vac (50Hz) depending on the country it was bought in. The stator winding of this kind of alternator has only a single winding, with 2 wires coming off of it. One of these wires goes to the neutral bus for the outlets, the other wire goes to the circuit breaker, and the other side of the circuit breaker goes to the outlet. Disconnect both of the wires, and use your multimeter to check the continuity between them. You should have continuity here. Also check each wire to the frame of the alternator, there should not be continuity here though. If you don't have continuity between the wires, or if you have continuity between the wire and alternator frame, then you have what is called a grounded winding. This will have to be addressed by a motor shop, or replace the stator in its entirety. It is generally more cost effective to replace the generator though. Remove and sell the copper wire, and use that money towards a replacement generator.

Multiple Output alternators are usually found in the next step up from "bargain" generators. These usually will have an output of 120/240vac, and likely a low voltage battery charging circuit as well (12vdc being most common). The stator for these is checked in the same way as a single output, with a caution on the low voltage winding. On the low voltage winding,there will be a single diode (called half wave rectification) or a full wave rectifier (2 diodes) connected to the windings. You must disconnect at least 1 wire from the diodes to check the windings, and both wires to check for continuity between the windings and the frame of the alternator. If you don't disconnect the wire(s), the 1 way nature of the diode will indicate no continuity when there should be,and may cause you to not see continuity when there actually is (to the frame).

If the low voltage winding is open, the generator is still usable for the 120/240vac features. You just won't have benefit of the low voltage battery charging circuit, which is actually a very poor charger to begin with.

On a 120/240vac alternator, there may also be a switch that turns the 240vac on and off at the receptacle. This switch is put here so that the 2 120vac windings can be put in parallel for greater current capacity if 240vac is not required. If you have 120vac, but not 240vac, and the circuit breakers are not tripped, this switch is likely the culprit. It is just a double pole double throw switch that is easily replaced with one of the same type, and same or higher current rating. Never switch from 120 to120/240vac or vice versa while the engine is running. To do so invites winding damage due to arc-over, and may damage any devices that are connected from the voltage spike.

MultiPhase alternators are nothing more than single output alternators with a twist. Rather than having a single winding, there will be 3 windings, with a 120 degree phase separation. The in phase neutral wires will all be tied together, but the phase outputs will be separated, and connected to the receptacle in a specific order. This is called a Wye (Y) configuration. An alternate configuration is when the windings are all connected to each other, end to end style. The junction of each connection is then brought out to the receptacle. This is called a Delta configuration. Three phase / multiphase alternators will not be discussed in depth here as a much higher technical knowledge will be required.

As far as the stator winding goes, that is it. If you have continuity where you should, and don't have continuity where you shouldn't, the stator winding is likely good. As mentioned, if the low voltage battery charge winding is open, but not grounded / shorted to the frame, the primary function of the alternator is still usable.

If your checks of the stator are good,time to move on to the next tip.
Output and Safety Devices

on Sep 24, 2010 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Need a replacement, where do I get one?

If I understand correctly you have a 3-speed fan.
And you need a 3-speed replacement pull-chain-type switch

Lowes carries 3 speed fan switches in the light fixture department.
These switches have multiple wires.
At any given time, there is one-and-only-one wire that connects to power from wall switch.
Lets call this the Power wire.
As you pull the chain, the power passes through the switch and goes to one-and-only-one of the other wires.
The other wires connect to windings in the motor.
The different motor windings control fan speed.

The key to replacing the switch is recording where each wire went before you disconnect old switch.
Once you know which of these wires is the Power wire, then you can test other wires with a continuity tester.
You also know the pull-chain sequence is OFF - HIGH - Medium - Low
Mark wires in fan and mark wires on old switch.
Pull out old switch.
Use regular electrical tester to find which wire in the fan is the power wire (separate wires, turn on power and test each wire to metal part of fan)
Now test the switch wires.
The switch is out of the fan.
You marked the wires so you know which wire is power wire.
Put the continuity tester on the power wire.
Test power wire to each of the other wires.
Click the switch and test to each of the other wires. Mark which wire lights up continuity tester.
Click the switch and test again. Mark which wire lights up continuity tester.
Click again, until each wire is marked in the sequence.
When you click the switch and no wire lights up, then that is the Switch OFF position.
Do the same test on the new pull-chain switch.
Connect the wires to match your testing.

Oct 25, 2010 | Westinghouse Electric Westinghouse...

1 Answer

Will not run

Remove the plug and starrt from the plug to the fan unit connection, use a multimeter to check on the continuity of the wire and move on to check the switch and to the coils of the fan. See if the coils are short internally or if the winding is shorted to the ground. Check the capacitor if the coils are fine , replace and power. You fan must work or else you must check once again with a meter in ac mode the supply till the coils to confirm if the switch is working. I am sure unless the winding are short( in which case you will need rewinding) the fan will work. Hope you get this right. Good day

Aug 16, 2010 | Lakewood HV 18-c Floor / Box Fan

1 Answer

I am installing a intilitech 7 day in wall timer replacing an old mechanical 12 hr timer. The load is a 1/4hp 2 speed attic fan. The original wiring had hot in hot out of the timer. This has hot in, hot...

Utilitec does not make a 2 speed timer.

1) One possible option is a timer with NO and NC terminals like Intermatic-Grasslin FM1 series rated 1 HP. This example timer would have the motor running continually on either one speed or the other.

2) Inside a 2-speed motor are two separate windings.
Windings are loops of copper wire that cause the fan motor to rotate.
For 2-speed, each winding has to be connected to a different 'switch.'
For example, like a ceiling fan. You pull the chain once, and electricity flows to one winding. Pull the chain again, and the switch sends electricity to another winding.

3) The following wiring diagram shows ordinary on-off timer connected to 2-speed switch: This is the basic plan for Broan Nutone 2-speed switch timer, which might be the product you are replacing

4) Nutone makes a 2-speed whole house fan timer.

5) And open following Broan Nutone manual that show the two spped timer wiring

Jul 01, 2010 | Intermatic Inc. ST01C Digital In-Wall...

1 Answer

Maytag window ac blows line cord fuse soon as turned on

Check all your electrical wires and connections. If all okay, you can remove the compressor wires and ohm the compressor motor windings to ground. If you have continuity from any winding-to-ground, your compressor is shorted out and will need to be replaced.

Apr 09, 2010 | Maytag M6Q10F2A Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Need to hook-up pond motor 115V , two speed , 3/4 3450 rpm-1/8 1725 rpm , with switch for speed slection.

We need to know what wires you have as far as connections to the motor AND the switch. I.e. Red white black green and ______?

Is the switch resistive or just a 2 position (high/ low) 15 Amp switch?

We also need to know how the the terminals on the motor board are labeled. i.e T1, L1, T2, L2. T3, T4 etc and ground. L1 Black L2 White for high speed Green for gorund. The other 2 colors will be for the slower speed winding.

Experimenting with electricity can be costly and VERY dangerous. I would do continutiy checks on the motor windings across L1 and L2 or T1 and T2 and the same for the 2nd winding terminals. Then do the same continuity check from the power wires through the switch and verify the winding resistance across the 2 power leads in BOTH switch positions BEFORE applying power.

Most reputable pump manufacturing companies have the winding terminals on the label or included with the pump with a basic wiring diagram.

FYI you can... use a gate valve for controlling output flow from the pump and run the pump at one speed as an alternative.

I am just being honest here.. without either a wiring diagram of your pump and switch assy it is difficult to pass "safe and sound" advice to you.

Thanks for using FixYa.


Apr 06, 2010 | Garden

2 Answers

No heat in dryer


Thanks for using FixYa. If your dryer isn't working or isn't getting heated up, you'll need to check the following to be sure what exactly the issue is--

Blows fuses or trips circuit breaker —ELECTRIC Models:
• The amperage readings are at 240 volts. One line will be 24 amps and the other line will be 21 amps. The neutral line will be at 3 amps. If the above amperages are not present, then the house wiring, fuse box or circuit breaker should be suspect.
• Shorted heating element to housing.
• Incorrect wiring or a wire shorting to ground.
• Drive motor winding shorting to ground.

Blows fuses or trips circuit breaker —GAS Models:
• If igniter is not glowing, check for 120 V at igniter.
• Igniter harness may be loose and shorted to base.
• Incorrect wiring or a wire shorted to ground.
• Drive motor winding shorting to ground.

If it runs for a few minutes and then stops, then check for the following:--
• Empty dryer.
• Check motor spins freely.
• Lint buildup around drive motor.
• Low voltage present.
• Blower impeller blocked in blower housing.
• Drive motor - start switch contacts stuck closed.

Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.



Nov 12, 2009 | KitchenAid Dryers

1 Answer

I have an old circular saw that is all metal housing and was a two wire cord. It looks like there should've been a wire going to the switch and the other to the motor winding?

the 2 wires black [power/hot] white[ground/neutral] black should connect to one side of switch other side of switch should continue to one side of winding and other side of winding to white

Oct 05, 2009 | Saws

1 Answer

1988 honda civic 1.5 l engine turns over but will not spark or run,new spark plugs,roter,and cap still no spark

well if this is the model i think it is you have pgm ignition. you have an ignition coil , ignitor unit, ground wires all(corrosion) left to check.
coil testing
  1. With ignition switch OFF, remove the distributor cap.
  2. Remove the two screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL front terminal A and WHT/BLU from terminal B of the coil.
  3. Using an ohmmeter, check resistance between terminals. Replace coil if resistance is not within specification.
  4. Check that the primary winding resistance between terminals A and B is 0.3-0.5 ohms.
  5. Check that the secondary winding resistance between terminals A and the coil tower is 9,440-14,160 ohms.
  6. If not within specifications, replace the coil.

unit testing
    1. Check and service any Honda engine codes before proceeding.
    2. Check the No. 32 50A fuse on 1985-91 models, or the No. 39 50A fuse on 1992-95 models in the dash fuse box before testing.
    3. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and the leak cover.
    4. Disconnect the wires from the igniter.
    5. Turn the ignition switch ON.
    6. Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and ground. If there is no voltage check the BLK/YEL wire and ignition switch.
    7. Check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and ground. If there is no voltage check the WHT/BLU wire and the ignition coil.
    8. Check the continuity between the WHT wire and body ground. Service the wire or connectors as needed.
    9. Check for continuity between the BLU wire and body ground. If no continuity check the wire and connectors between the igniter unit and the
tachometer or the A/Trans control unit.

after these things let me know if problem persists
    1. If any tests were not passed, replace the igniter unit.

Mar 07, 2009 | 1988 Honda Civic 2 Door

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