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The spring attachment to the moving latch has broken off either replace the latch or drill a small hole in the latch body and attach some heavy steel wire to make a new attach point for the spring. the inside trim easily pops off and the latch just slides off.
Check to see if one of the two tabs on the door latch assembly are broken. If one is broken, replace the door latch. If the door latch is ok, you might have to replace the door switch and the door latch. To replace the door switch you have to remove the front panel. Remove the two screws holding the door switch assembly in place and drop the door switch assembly down into the bottom of the washer. Remove the wires and transfer to the new switch. Reach up and line up the new switch and install the two screws. Remove the two screws on the door latch assembly on the door, and remove old door latch. Install the new latch and replace the front panel. I hope this helps.
Try partstore.com they might be able to solve your problem. Also look at the latch and determine if it is attached to the front of the camera case or the back of the camers casing I am assuming it is attached to the back then you might consider caling HP back and ordering the Back or Front cover Assembly. Small pieces like this usually don't come by themselves you have to order an assembly, so when when u call for parts ask for Back cover assembly or front cover assembly, which ever it is attached to or apart of. Asking for a perticular piece they will not usually know what you need. You have to talk to them in technical terms.. Hope this helps you out...
Mine just did the exact same thing. The latch may be moving freely because it is not hooked to the latching mechanism anymore. In my case, the handle had broken where the handle hooks to the rod that operates the mechanism. Go to the Ford dealer and buy a new handle. Here in S.C. it was $24. You can't get this at the parts houses. Start by removing the plastic "Ford" cover that is over the liscense plate lights. You then have to remove the aluminum rivets that hold the handle to the tailgate from the outside and remove the broken latch. Remove the pull handle loop on the interior side of the tailgate (2 screws), unsnap the inside plastic tailgate interior panel, and pull down the black plastic sheeting that is underneath the panel to make access to the mechanism inside of the tailgate. There is also a hard plastic cover that you will see that needs to be pulled loose to open another access hole. Install the new tailgate latch handle by sliding back into the mounting holes and attach with two 10-32 screws and nuts. The new handle will come with a new yellow rod attachment piece on the handle. You will see inside of the tailgate a small rod hanging down, most likeky it will have the same rod attachment piece as the one on the new handle. Note the position of the yellow piece on the rod, as you will connect the new piece in the same place. Once the rod is hooked up, relubricate the metal mechanism with a light machine oil, replace the black plastic cover, replace the black plastic sheeting, (secure with a small amount of duct tape), replace the tailgate interior panel, replace the pull handle loop, shut tailgate, replace "Ford" cover over lights, and you're done!
I'm not an washing machine engineer but I do tend to do all my own home repairs - had to fix this fault this morning,
Quite easy to fix as long as there are no broken parts in the interlock and the solenoid isn't jammed.
UNPLUG FROM MAINS
Remove the top - 2 Philips or flat blade screws - pull backwards.
Remove front door - large flat blade inserted into gap in lower door hinge at back and gently twist to widen gap while pulling the door forward at bottom.
Remove 4 torx type screws (not sure what size) and 2 long torx screws from behind the hinge.
You may want to remove the coin trap door now - it makes the job of removal and refitting the front panel easier. Remember to put a tray underneath!
Unplug the ribbon connector for the front panel from it's socket and the clips - unplug the little pipe from the middle of the front panel.
Gently lift the front cover pulling the bottom edge forward a bit to ease removal. It is not necessary to fully remove the front panel so you can leave the mains switch connected.
Unhook the emergency release strap from the pivot arm.
2 Torx Screws above and below the door latch hole secure the latch assembly. Unplug the latch from a socket past the little foam block on the front - just inside the machine.
You now have the latch. Operation is quite obvious. The door loop pushes an angled plate that swings a hook into the loop. The solenoid when activated pushes a bar down to lock the hook in place and push down on 2 micro switches wired in series as the interlock.
To strip down the assembly unplug the micro switch plugs and push a small screwdriver into the top and bottom catches.
You can now lubricate the latch and check the function of the micro switches using a meter. They a easily replaced if you can find the correct type. (Unofficially - for a home repair - if one is not working you could always bypass one - but I wouldn't condone that obviously)
If you are careful enough - the operation of the solenoid and latch can be checked and observed by plugging the unit back in and pushing the door loop into the latch - be careful of the exposed wires etc - not sure what voltages are there!!
If it's unservicable then a replacement is about £35 online.
Reassemble in reverse - nothing to point out and is quite straghtforward. Dont forget the little pipe on the back of the control panel - it's easily missed.
The latch head (with hooklike projections) have a spring to keep it pulled down.
If the latch head can be easily pushed up and falls back freely, then the monting tab on the back of the latch head is broken and it will have to be glued or replaced. The new part is better.
To get to the door screws inside, you have to remove the choke cover, as shown in the photo.
You can order parts for Sharp models from Tritronics at http://www.wehaveparts.com.