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Mounting your Amplifier
The mounting position of your amplifier will have a great effect on its ability to dissipate the heat generated during normal operation. It has an ample heat sink for heat dissipation, and also designed with a thermal shut-down protection circuit ( most amplifiers) making it reasonably tolerant of mounting variations. Any configuration with allows moving air to be directed over the cooling fins will improve heat dissipation dramatically, DO NOT enclose the amplifier in a small box or cover it so that air cannot flow around the heat sink fins.
Temperature in car trunks have been measured as high as 175 F ( 80 C) in the summer time, since the thermal shut down point for most amplifiers is 185 F (85 C), it's easy to see that it must be mounted for maximum cooling capability. To achieve maximum advantage of convection air flow in an enclosed trunk, mount the amplifier in a vertical position, on a vertical surface.
Cooling requirements are considerably relaxed when mounting inside the passenger compartment since the driver will not often allow temperatures to reach a critical point. Floor mounting under the seat is usually satisfactory as long as there is at least 1 inch (2 cm) above the amplifier's fins for ventilation.
Select a suitable location that is convenient for mounting, is accessible for wiring, and has ample room for circulation and cooling.
Use the amplifier as a template to mark the mounting holes, remove the amplifier and drill as much holes as required , USE EXTREME CAUTION, INSPECT UNDERNEATH THE SURFACE BEFORE DRILLING.
Secure the amplifier using the proper screws.
Please rate the tip if it helped you in anyway, thanks.
The fan normally runs for a few minutes or so after the gas shuts off.
This removes the heat from the furnace and transfers it into the living space instead of just letting it possibly cause overheating of the furnace until it dissipates. If it is a fan that blows outside, that fan also needs to run for a few minutes to clear exhaust gasses from the furnace - to keep them from dissipating into your home.
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
The critical clearance, especially with under the counter units is in the back. You need extra space between the back wall and the heat coming off the compressor. I like to see 3" minimum. The more the better. If you are not getting sufficient air flow in the back then, your cooling condenser coil fan will constantly run in a effort to dissipate the heat.
Most manufactures recommend 1-1/4" minimum on the sides.
You'll have to open your case to do it.
1) Shut computer down.
2) Unplug computer power cord - IMPORTANT!
3) Wait a minute or so for all power to be dissipated. (Capacitors hold charge for a while even after shutdown.) This is for your safety, and to keep anything from happening to your computer.
4) Open case. The side is usually held on by 2 or 3 screws. Usually Phillips, could be knurled finger type. Open side by sliding back an inch or so. Then pull side away from case.
5) Look for a small plastic piece, about 1/8" x 1/4" looking from top. It should be on 2 of a set of 3 pins on the motherboard. There should be a label on the motherboard saying "reset" or "PW Reset" or "Password" or "bios reset", depending on which version of motherboard you have.
6) Lift the plastic piece up, noting which 2 of the 3 pins it is on first.
7) Put it on the other end of the set of 3 pins, using the middle pin over. (You are changing from one outer pin to the other outer pin.)
8) Put the power cord back in the power supply. Push the start button. Just a second will be plenty long.
9) Remove the power cord, waiting again for all power to dissipate.
10) Put the plastic piece back on the original 2 pins. Put case back together. Put power cord back, and turn on. The bios password will be removed.
You can purchase special cleaning brushes to do that - BUT since I purchased one, I used it when I first got it and then put it away somewhere and can't find it. So I had to figure something else out, and what seems to work the best is to turn on the vacuum and put on the floor in front of the unit and then use an air compressor blowing it out from the rear. While it does blow dust into the kitchen, it seems to work well as cleaning out the condenser coils.
Over heat is caused by poor circulation of coolant. This problem can be:
1- The thermostat is not opening ( bad) causing coolant stagnant.
2- Water pump is bad, not circulate coolant.
3- Radiator is clogging up. It is full but water can not going through small clogging up tubes inside to have heat dissipated through the fines.
Since you also have no heat then I think the bad coolant causing the heater core clogged up also, unless the heater valve has a problem not allowing cooling flowing through the bypass hose to the heater core. Correct all 3 things above then you should be OK. Good luck.
well your graphics card is getting hot you need to do something or you will be the next one with the red ,green and yellow lights of dead I recommend to use a cooling device and make sure you unit has a good space to dissipate heat from the back of the unit and from the right side