Question about GE Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I believe the selector knob on a Whirpool just has to be turned counter-clockwise with the selector pushed in. It will spin off the shaft and then the outer indicator dial will pull off. The shaft also has a keyed slot that will only allow the dial to be removed and installed one way, so there should be no question as to how it goes back on.
Was there a reason as to why you are removing the washer selector knob? If this is a simple matter of replacing a broken water temperature selector, you shouldn't have to remove any of the control knobs to gain access to the selector. The entire front panel comes off by removing the screws holding it in place. That way you can access the broken selector from behind the front panel much easier. Just remove the panel right above the washer top (under the dryer) and it should expose the front panel mounting screws. Remove these screws and the front panel comes off. Just make sure the unit is unplugged before you begin. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you need further assistance.
Posted on Apr 22, 2008
Something in the timer came apart. Timer needs replaced. When in good working order, the timer should ONLY ever be turned clockwise..Reversing this could break it.
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
SOURCE: Broken knob on GE washer
There are four separate parts that make up the knob dial. You can pull off the knob if you use a screwdriver/pliers to remove the clip holding it on. Check if the mounting areas appear stripped or broken. There should also be a compression ring in the mounting hole on the back of the knob. That's what may be broken or stripped. These are all parts that you can get from a local parts store (check the phone book) and you can do it yourself. Any of those parts should cost less than $10. The bad news is if you stripped the pole coming out of the timer assembly. You would need to replace the entire assembly which costs about $130. If you call a GE repairman, you are looking at $89.95 or more just to have them show up. If it is still under warranty, there is no charge. You can call them to verify this:
Posted on May 03, 2009
This a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
The brake on these washers is driven by the clutch on top of the transmission.
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
If the washer drains the problem is likely in the transmission.
We had the same problem:
If you lift the lid, put it down again or stopping and starting the cycle knob, and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, or stopping and starting the washer torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.
Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on Nov 16, 2009
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