Question about Rangemaster 110 (Gas) Kitchen Range

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Oven is igniting but not getting hot

The main oven is not working properly. its not getting hot. its as if its on low all the time. the gas is still coming through, so the vents are not blocked. what's the problem? thanks

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Got the same problem on a rangemaster 110 - just had the comet engineer look at it - changed the thermostat and the spark generator - no effect. poss the flame failure device or the timer.

Posted on Nov 18, 2009

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Magic chef oven with uniburners oven will not light. igniter gets red hot but seems like no gas coming at all. burners on top work fine.


Hello,

Since the bake burner does glow yet no flame that means that the igniter is weak and should replaced...the way the igniter works is that it comes on and get very hot where upon getting hot it draws a certain amount of amperage which will allow the gas valve to open resulting in a flame. The igniter is indeed coming on yet its not getting hot enough to draw the proper amp drqaw to open the gas valve...by replacing it with a new fresh igniter it will draw the correct amprage and let the gas flow.



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Oct 02, 2011 | Magic Chef Ovens

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Maytag oven will not heat, no gas flow. Broiler works, clock and timer works.


Hi,

You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.

The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works - click here.



Let me know,if needed further assistance.



Hope i helped you.



Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Aug 13, 2011 | Maytag Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

A/c does'nt get very cold comming out of vents center vent feels kinda cold. left and right vents by the doors is warm. a/c is fully charged pressures are right were they should be hihg and low side...


use a proper AC machine and remove the gas so its weighed on removal and i do think you will find that its undercharged with gas ,most vehicles operate with around 750 grms of gas by weight and i think yours will show about 150 grms of gas so it works but it doesnt get cold enough ,the low pressure pipe out of the valve under the bonnet should be well cold with condensation on it and the inlet pipe which is thinner should be warm to hot ,unless you have operating flap thats not closing properly that is ,but i would stick the machine on it and weigh the gas to make sure before you pull the dash apart

Jun 07, 2011 | Chevrolet Monte Carlo Cars & Trucks

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MY PILOT KEEPS BLOWING OUT BUT THERMOCOUPLE IS BRAND NEW I AM GETTING FRUSTRATED BECAUSE IT GOES OUT AND THEN I LIGHT IT AGAIN AND IT WORKS WHY DOES THIS KEEP HAPPENING.


Hi,

There can be a number of things causing that...
Is the oven vented? If so then is there a good cap on the pipe?? is the vent pipe high enough above the roof line?
Is there a draft diverter at the back of the oven where the pipe hooks on? A direct connection can cause this...
Is there a vent hood in the room that the oven is in??? Is there enough makeup air, or is the vent blower pulling air back down the stack?
Is the main burners "pulling" the pilot flame away from the thermocouple?
Is the "hood" on the pilot flame adjusted properly to keep the flame on the thermocouple?
Is the thermocouple positioned in the flame properly?
Is the thermocouple correctly tighten into the gas valve?


These questions are what I would be looking for if I was troubleshooting that appliance...

heatman101

Dec 09, 2010 | Bakers Pride Y-600 Gas Single Oven

1 Answer

I have a Maytag gas over/stove, Model number MGR5755QDW. The broiler heats, but the oven does not. What are the possible causes and how do I troubleshoot?


If you are having problems with the oven, the first thing to do is figure out if you have a pilot light system or a glow bar system.
Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's a internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.
Problems with the glow bar system.....You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.
The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works -click here.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

Jan 26, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

A friend has a oven that has been coming on with a bang. I've cycled it on and off cold and hot no problems when I was there. Pulled the botten pan out (it is quite worped from heat and dosn't fit that...


a lot of iffy things could be happening here..
verify proper amperage draw through the ignitor.. i believe thats a 3.2-3.5 amp system but check the label thats on the gas valve, it will have the ratings listed on there for sure. make sure amperage draw is in the middle of the range as some gas valves are less tolerant of low amperage draw than others.
it almost sounds like your amperage load may be on the low side, just enough to open the valve regularly but not open fully..
its on its way out if so..
the popping could be the gas coming into the oven slowly enough to NOT blow directly across the ignitor properly, (igniting it instantly if it were) and allowing it to pool in the enclosure some because of the low amperage draw through the ignitor, eventually firing with a bang..

yes the regulator vent could be plugged, but another thing is if you are on bottled gas/lp/propane for your source of fuel the regulator at the tank could be faulty also, causing the pulsing flame..
hope this helps,
best of luck,
ttfn

Nov 02, 2009 | Jenn-Air Ovens

3 Answers

Amana gas oven not working


The ignitor may be too weak to open the gas valve. If you have a volt/ohm meter capable of reading AMPS you can hook up to a ignitor wire and turn the oven ON. If you read less than 3.5 amps replace the ignitor. If 3.5 amps or more are read,replace the gas valve.

Aug 30, 2009 | Amana ARGS7650SS Gas Kitchen Range

2 Answers

My oven will not preheat at all.Or basically get hot.


You most likely have a defective oven ignitor. Even if it IS glowing, (orange) it may not be creating the proper resistance to open the gas valve to the oven burner. Once the ignitor is replaced, your oven should come on within 30-45 seconds after you set temperature.

Feb 13, 2008 | Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven

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