Have removed all screws from back panel and panel still does not come off. Is there another way to access the heat element or is there a trick to removing the back panel after all screws have been removed?
You get into the unit from the top. Use a putty knife about 2 inches in from the right and left in the seam on the front of the unit and push in on the spring clip then lift on the top. After that take the front off and work your way down. The heating elements are on the bottom right when facing the front of the unit.
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Turn off power at the electric service panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
Remove the access panel on the electric water heater.
Disconnect one of the element wires and set a multimeter to
RX1000 (resistance times 1,000). Touch one probe to an element mounting
bolt and the other to each element terminal screw, in turn. If the
tester displays anything but infinity ( open circuit), replace the element.
If necessary, set the multimeter to RX1
and touch the probes to the terminal screws. If there is any resistance
reading at all ( closed circuit), then the element is good. If not, replace it. Both upper and lower elements are tested in the same manner.
To remove the element, first drain the heater.
Disconnect the remaining element wire. Remove the mounting bolts holding the element in place. Remove the element.
Replace the heating element with one of the same model, shape, and rating. Make sure you also replace any installation gaskets.
Test and replace a high-limit cutoff:
Disconnect power to the heater at the electric service panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
Remove the upper access panel and push the reset button.
Replace the access panel and turn the power back on. If the water is
hot, the reset was the problem. If not, you'll need to turn the power
off again and reopen the access panel.
Use a multimeter to test the cutoff terminals for continuity. If faulty, replace with an exact replacement part.
The dryer doesn't have a removable rear access panel and the heating element is accessible through the bottom front panel. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, locate and release the two bottom front panel clips approximately 4 inches from the sides.
Once the panel is off, locate the heating element housing is on the right side and remove the hex-head screw from the heater shield.
Remove the hex-head screw from the side of the heater housing and slide the heating element out then slide the new heating element in and secure it with the hex-head screw.
The heating element is not necessarily busted and needs to be replaced when the dryer fails to heat up. The first thing to look at is the thermal cut-off. It blows open and cut power to the heating element if the high-limit thermostat is faulty. Disconnect
the red wire from the thermal cut-off and the red/white stripe wire
from the heater. Connect the red wire disconnected from the thermal
cut-off to the heater terminal where the red/white stripe wire is
power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed with the two bypassed
components if the dryer heats up. Replace both the thermal cut-off and
the high-limit thermostat and it should solve the heating problem. Do
not use the dryer with those parts bypassed due to high risk of fire
The heating element is located at the rear of the dryer behind the rear access panel. Disconnect power then remove the screws attaching the rear access panel to the cabinet and remove the panel.
Your dryer seems not heating but it doesn't mean the heating element is busted. The
problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed
of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling
thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that
causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the
high-limit thermostat. Verify this
condition by bypassing the said components. Click on the link below for the detailed procedures. Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating
The heating element is accessible through the lower front access panel. Disconnect power to the dryer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.
Remove the two screws attaching the bottom of the lower front access panel to the cabinet then slide the panel down then off the cabinet. The heating element can now be accessed and repalced.
Remove the screws securing the heating element to the heater box then pull down the heating element to remove it from the heater box.
Disconnect and label the wires for the heating element and the components. Remove the components from the old heating element then transfer it to the new heating element.
Slide the new heating element up into the heater box and secure it in place. Align the slots on the top of the lower front access panel with the locating tabs on the front access panel then slide it into position and secure the bottom of the lower front access panel to the cabinet.
There are three common causes of a dryer not heating. First is a busted heating element. Second, the thermal cut-off has blown. Third, the high limit thermostat is not working.
Disconnect power to the machine and remove the screws at the bottom of the lower front access panel (toe panel) holding it in place. Pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You now have access to the heating circuit.
Remove the heater shield by removing its mounting screw and pulling it off the heater housing.
The heater terminal block is located at the left opening of the heater housing. Disconnect the wire from one of the heater terminals and measure the resistance of the heating element using an ohmmeter set to X1. The resistance should read 7.8 -11.8 ohms. Replace the heating element if the resistance reads open.
Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the heating element and remove the screw securing it to the heater housing. Slide the busted heating element out of the housing and install the new heating element. Secure it with the screw and put the terminal block in place. Connect the heater wires and reinstall the heater shield.
Slide the lower front access panel up into the cabinet and secure it with the screws.
Remove the power plug from the wall socket. The front panel must be removed after getting the case top loose--remove screws from back near the top, then slide top back and lift the front of the top. The front panel is held by screws near the top inside, then lift panel off. Remove wiring from inside the panel and set panel aside. Take back lower panel off and release the drive belt from the motor. Remove the drum--screws inside near center. Leave belt around the drum and set aside. You now have access to the heating element. Reverse the above to reassemble. Whew!!
If you are replacing the infinite switch, you need to remove the back panel of the console. This may include having to remove all, or part, of the entire back panel to gain full access. If you are replacing the thermostat on the heating element, or the element all together, you will need to lift the cook top up for access. This is acommpished by removing the screws along the front edge of the top panel. You will need to open the oven door to see the screws. Make sure you unplug the range prior to servicing any internal components. I hope this answers your question. If not, please let me know.
Electric heating elements, found in electric dryers, are self-contained units located in the back of the dryer. A defective heating element is frequently the source of no-heat or drying problems. Remove the back service panel to gain access to the elements. Step 1: Remove the back of the dryer. If necessary, also remove the cabinet top. Step 2: Disconnect the leads and remove the screws that hold the duct in position. Then lift the entire heater unit out of the dryer.Step 3: Remove the screws that hold the heating element in the duct. Step 4: Slip the new heating element into the heating duct the same way the old one came out. Be careful not to damage the resistance coils. Replace the screws that hold the heating element in the duct, reconnect the leads, and screw the unit back into position.
now see whether it is ok..............
Take the top panel off by slideing a putty knife about 2 inches in at the front and releasing the tabs. remove screws from top of front panel after top removed. also remove 2 screws from inside of front panel on both sides about 4 inches down screwing back into front panel. pull front off and slip belt through opening. Feed belt around drum and put tension on the idler spring release onto belt. reassemble unit.