The wires on the old honey well are not coded, and i do not know where to connect them. Out of the wall i have a red, white, green, blue, yellow. on the new digital mount it is coded like this..
do you know what color goes with which code
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Re: i do not know where the wires color coded connect
If there is a jumper across Rh and Rc then leave it, if not add a jumper and hook the red wire to one of them. Hook the white wire to the W/B terminal, the yellow wire to the Y/O terminal, and the green wire to the G terminal. If the A/C does not come on with ti this way then hook the yellow to the Y1 terminal instead of the Y/O, I'm not exactly sure which one it will be but it will be one of those. The blue wire you should not need to hookup if there is no C terminal on your t-stat. Just wire nut it off and let it there. This should get you up and going!!
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Your apartment is wired for two lines but you are using only one of the two. Your phone jack has red and green terminals for one line and yellow and black terminals for the other (old color codes). The four wires coming in to your apartment are actually two lines: orange/white and white/orange plus blue/white and white/blue (new color codes). One of those lines is active. Connect the orange/white wire to the red terminal and the white/orange wire to the green terminal. Plug in your phone and listen for a dial tone. If no tone, disconnect the first line and connect the second pair of wires. Listen again. DO NOT CONNECT ANY WIRES TOGETHER. Just follow the steps above. If you still don't get results, the phone company may not have activated your connection
As you have realized, screw color is the key. 1) Black hot wire connects to dark colored screws. Both dark screws are connected together with brass plate, so hot wire only needs to connect to one of the dark screws.
2) Wire going to Load (light,fan, motor) connects to brass colored screw.
3) White neutral wire connects to silver colored screw.
4) Lets look at problem as if new wiring device is replacing old on-off switch that has two wires. So old on-off switch has two wires >> one is black hot wire, and other is wire going to load. Separate wires, turn on power and test each wire to bare ground wire. Tester lights up on hot wire. This wire goes on dark screw. If old on-off switch had another wire connected with the hot wire, that wire also goes on the dark screw. The other wire from old switch is the Load wire, and it connects to brass colored screw.
Now you need a neutral wire. In back of box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. These are neutrals. To confirm that these wires are neutrals >> turn on power and test hot wire to other wires in box. Tester lights up on neutral. Neutral wire connects to silver screw, and this will complete the circuit for any electric device plugged into receptacle. If box does not have neutral wires as described above, you can violate code and connect bare ground to silver screw >>> but do NOT do this if your new plug is going to be used regularly. You can use bare ground temporarily until additional wiring is made available.
If I understand correctly, you are replacing a switch that has a black and red wire? And your new switch has 2 black wires + green wire
The green is color-code for ground, and it always connects to bare ground wire. The switch wires are not color-coded (both are black) so they can connect to either of the two wires that came off old switch. If switch does not operate, they try reversing the two black wires.
As a general rule, the wires inside your box are color-coded. The color-code information says: The black is the Hot from breaker box. This wire carries electricity from the breaker to the switch. The red wire goes to Load (fan, light, motor). This wire carries electricity to the Load when you turn ON the switch.
Review old switches: Two old switches > each has 2 wires Old switch 1 > Red and White Old switch 2 > Black and White The same white wire connects to both switches, so effectively they count as 1 wire This means you have 3 wires ... 1 White, 1 Red, 1 Black Each switch controls a separate load (light, fan, motor)
New Leviton double-rocker switch: -Leviton has 2 Brass-colored screws on one side, and these screws are connected together by a brass plate >> your Hot wire will connect to brass screw -Leviton has 2 Silver-colored screws on other side, and neither of these screws are connected in any way >> the wires going to each load will connect on a different screw on this side of switch.
Hot wire: Each box in your house has exactly 1 hot wire that is connected back to breaker box. This is true for all boxes (excluding boxes that have a 3-way & 4-way switches). We need to identify Hot wire.
-By code the Hot wire is black for identification purposes ... but your box sounds like maybe the Hot wire is White. -If your Hot wire is white, that is NOT an immediate safety issue ... it will not cause a fire or malfunction ... it is a code violation ... because code requires things be uniform so next electrician knows what previous guy did. So some day, electrician working outside grabs wrong color wire, and wow. I say this so you know.
Identify Hot wire: -Pull 3 wires up so they can be tested -Turn on power -Use ordinary tester, or old lamp with plug cut off and wires stripped back -Tape tester lead to sticks so hands are away from voltage -Power is on. Don't stand in water or touch metal pipes, and you're fine. -You have 3 wires in box + ground wire -Test all 3 wires to bare ground wire >> when tester lights up, that is Hot wire ... testing is complete
Connect wires to Leviton double-rocker: -Power is OFF. -You have 3 wires - 1 White, 1 Black, 1 Red >> one is Hot wire, the other two wires go to load -Hot wire connects to Brass-colored screws on new Leviton. -Brass colored screws are connected together by a brass plate so the Hot does not need to connect to both brass screws. -The other two wires connect to Silver screws on other side of new Leviton switch -One wire goes to each silver screw -Connect bare ground wire to green screw. -Push wires back into box. Use eraser end of pencil if needed. -Make sure ground wire is back and away from screws on switch -That's it.
Generally, the way I put an aftermarket cd-player in, is to use a new 'harness adapter' that connects to the old harness and has all of the wires color coded and labeled for easy installation of a new radio using wire nuts. I wouldn't try to cut into the existing harness, without knowing what was what.
What's the 'little plug thing' off of the grey wire?
what you need is to buy a wiring adapter for your car.it only cost about 15 bucks and plugs right in to your original plugs that were connected to your factory radio.the great thing about this adapter is that you dont hava to cut your original plug off just in case if you ever want to reinstall your original back.also the wires that go to your new headunit are color coded to match the exact colors that you connect to your stereo.you can't mess your connection up because all you have to do is connect each wire to the right color,tape them up,connect your stereo and you have music with all of your speakers working like they should and without any headaches.i hope this info helps.take care and good luck, manny
Stereo dealers have wire harness adapters for almost every make and model of car. It will come with a connector both with color coded pigtails that are usually prestripped. The package will described which wires go where and their color codes. The deck you bought should have a pigtail with color coded wires and they'll match up to the ones on the harness adapter for your car. After connecting them all properly, you can take your deck with the attached pigtail and plug adapter and plug it directly into your car stereo plug where your old radio was connected...don't forget the anntenna lead as well... Not to difficult...email if you get stuck... KEN
Wires for thermostat control circuits are normally color coded. Check for proper connections at the furnace and connect the same colored wires that you find at the furnace to the like lettered terminals on the new thermostat. R to R, W to W , Y to Y , ans G to G. R is for power to the thermostat, W is for heating, Y is for cooling and G is for furnace fan operation.