Question about Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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Dryer runs doesn't dry , my guess it is the heating element, but how do I change it out?

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  • Kenmore Master
  • 7,482 Answers

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.

Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Remove the back of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistor.
Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST. This could cause a fire, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
http://www.partselect.com/
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/index.aspx
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
Good Luck,
Hope this helps

Posted on Nov 14, 2009

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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buddymcl777
  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: just quit drying clothes

If it does not dry them all then the element is a good guess or the thermostat.

If it dries them but not all the way check that the moisture sensor is not turned down too far.

The following should help you.

How to Repair Heating Elements A dryer sometimes won't heat or heats too slowly because of a variety of reasons. By following the guidelines below, you can inspect the heating elements on a gas or electric dryer to pinpoint the source of the problem.

Troubleshooting the Gas Heater

In a gas dryer, heat is provided by a gas heater that is controlled by an air shutter. The gas heater is generally the source of no-heat or drying problems. You can often correct such problems by adjusting the air shutter on the gas burner, which is located along the bottom of the dryer.

To adjust the shutter, take out the screws and remove the panel that covers the gas flame. Turn on the dryer so the flame is burning. If the flame has a deep blue color and you hear air whistling around the burner, the air/gas mixture is receiving too much air. If the flame has a yellow tip, the mixture is not receiving enough air. Turn the thumbscrew or loosen the two screws slightly to increase or decrease the flow of air to the burner. Keep turning until the flame is a light blue color, without any yellow, and the whistling stops.

Gas dryers use an electric ignition device rather than a pilot light to light the gas heater: An element becomes hot and glows like the filament in a lightbulb. Electric ignition systems are always sealed; you can't adjust or repair them. If an electric ignition device fails, call a professional service person for replacement.
how-to-repair-a-dryer-2.jpg
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
In a gas dryer, heat is provided by a gas heater, controlled by an air shutter.
Electric dryers have self-contained electric heating elements.

Servicing the Electric Heating Elements

Electric heating elements, found in electric dryers, are self-contained units located in the back of the dryer. A defective heating element is frequently the source of no-heat or drying problems. Remove the back service panel to gain access to the elements.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher than 20 ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.

The heater may also malfunction because it's grounded. To test for this, set the VOM to the RX1 scale and remove the leads to the heater. Clip one probe of the VOM to a heater terminal and touch the other probe to the heater housing. The meter needle should jump to a fairly high reading. If the needle flicks back and forth at a low reading, the heater is probably grounded and should be replaced. Here's how to replace the heater:

Step 1: Remove the back of the dryer. If necessary, also remove the cabinet top.

Step 2: Disconnect the leads and remove the screws that hold the duct in position. Then lift the entire heater unit out of the dryer.

Step 3: Remove the screws that hold the heating element in the duct.

Step 4: Slip the new heating element into the heating duct the same way the old one came out. Be careful not to damage the resistance coils. Replace the screws that hold the heating element in the duct, reconnect the leads, and screw the unit back into position.

Servicing the Fan

The most common dryer fan problem is lint clogging the air passages through the heater and through the dryer drum. To clear a clogged air passage, remove the back service panel of the dryer and back out the screws holding the air duct in place. Then reach into the duct and remove all the lint and dirt possible. Reassemble the parts.

Also inspect the fan for a loose screw connection where the motor shaft is set on the dryer's drum. Remove the back service panel, tighten the screw, and replace the panel.

Posted on May 09, 2009

  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile Harmony DPGT750EC Electric Dryer not heating up

Check the air flow from the vent-if there is no air or very weak air flow, it is the blower motor. It is not getting up to speed or not spinning at all. Try this:
Press "Home"
Press "Help"
Simultaneously press and hold down BOTH
"My Cycles" and "Back"
After a few seconds the dryer will enter service mode and report any problems.
Pertains to GE Profile HarmonyDPGT750EC/GC

Posted on Aug 07, 2009

hektor1961
  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: GE DRYER HEATING ELEMENT

Yes, the whole drum needs to be removed:
Before you go trough this make sure you know for sure your elements need replacement by checking for continuity at both element terminals.
Make sure you do the same with your high limit thermostat on housing.
How to remove the drum?:
Disconnect the power source to your dryer before you begin to remove the drum. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel.
Pull your dryer out from the wall. Behind it, on the bottom, you will find a lower panel that will give you access to the unit's belt tensioner (also known as an idler pulley arm). Remove the screws holding this panel in place, and then remove the panel itself. Reach inside and release the belt tension by removing the belt from the motor pinion.
Older GE dryer models have a small drum bearing inspection plate in the center of the back of the dryer. This drum bearing inspection plate provides access to the dryer's circlip (also known as an e-ring). This clip holds the rear drum shaft in place. Newer models do not have this circlip or the drum bearing inspection plate.
If yours is an older GE model with an inspection plate, remove the plate now. It will be held in place with a single screw. With the plate removed, you will be able to see the drum support shaft and the e-ring (circlip) holding the shaft in place. Use a small screwdriver to remove the e-ring. You may also want to use a magnet to keep the circlip from falling into the dryer. You will also find several metal and nylon shims between the bearing and the e-ring, inside the bearing, and between the bearing and the drum. Take careful note of how they come off so that you will be able to put them back on again in the right order.
Now remove the front panel of the dryer. There are a couple of different ways this is accomplished. Whichever method you use is dependent upon your model. Some older models have two spring catch clips under the cabinet top, one on the left side, and one on the right side of the front. Use a putty knife, or some other flat and thin object to wedge in under the cabinet top. Release both spring catches and lift the cabinet top off the dryer. In some newer models, there will be screws joining the cabinet front panel to the cabinet top. You will have to open the door in order to find these screws. Once they are found, remove them and then slide the cabinet top forward and lift it off the unit.
Next, there are two screws located in the bottom of the front panel, one in each corner. Loosen these, but do not remove them just yet. Locate and remove the two screws at the top inside of the dryer's front panel. Again, there is one screw in each corner. Proceed to remove the other two screws you have just loosened. Disconnect the door switch wires and then lift the front panel off your dryer. With the front panel removed, lift the drum and slide it out of the dryer.
NOTE: In some models, you will have to remove the dryer drum glides before you can remove the drum. Also, now that the interior of your dryer is completely exposed, it might be a good time to vacuum out all of the dust and lint that has built up in there.

Posted on Aug 17, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore dryer model 96281100 runs but don't dry(no heat)

If the Thermal Fuse were blown, the dryer would not run at all. If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) so I can provide you with better service. I hope you find this information is helpful.

Posted on Feb 27, 2010

  • 45 Answers

SOURCE: lg dryer dle5977w heating element dryer

Yes the heating element is out.

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

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For an electric dryer that runs but doesn’t heat, follow this repair roadmap:
Flip the circuit breaker off and then back on. Electric dryers run on a two-pole, 240v breaker. A common problem is for one of the legs to break which cuts the 240v that the elements need to heat up but it still supplies the 120v for the motor. The result is that the dryer runs but doesn’t heat.
If the breaker checks out, then it’s time to do some surgery. Unplug the dryer and open it up.
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Measure the resistance of the heating element with your ohm meter. Normal readings are in the neighborhood of 30 ohms.
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For an electric dryer that runs but doesn’t heat, follow this repair roadmap:
Flip the circuit breaker off and then back on. Electric dryers run on a two-pole, 240v breaker. A common problem is for one of the legs to break which cuts the 240v that the elements need to heat up but it still supplies the 120v for the motor. The result is that the dryer runs but doesn’t heat.
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Measure the resistance of the heating element with your ohm meter. Normal readings are in the neighborhood of 30 ohms.
In rare cases, the centrifugal switch in the motor can fail which breaks the power circuit for the heating elements. If this is the case, then the entire motor must be replaced since the centrifugal switch is built into the motor.

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