I can get the faceplate to light and display properly by sliding it around a bit, but bumps and such make it go out--at least half the time. this unit does not use a ribbon cable, instead there is a socket style connection with flexible contacts that the faceplate's contacts press against. I've checked continuity between the socket and the circuit board and have received a reading from all 15 contacts. The faceplate, as far as I can tell, seats properly. I seem to be at a loss on this one but will perservere. Thank you for any help you can give, Ben
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The Nightwatch feature is actually AC feed. The wire harness runs from the faceplate to a box. That box is a DC to AC converter. Replacing the bulb in the meter should have no bearing on the NW feature. They do frequently go bad and in such a case the entire faceplate has to be replaced. Often times the faceplate will have a peeling or a bit of black color on the backside of it when the NW feature goes bad. If you have a watt meter you can diagnose some of the parts around the NW unit to see if that be the case. If you do find you need a new NW faceplate a piece of advice, try to find someone who has a junk/parts radio for sale that the NW still works in. Often time $30-$40 will get you the radio because the NW faceplate itself cost around &80 and are hard to find.
Locate the small plastic tab on the top of your Samsung phone, located in the groove between the faceplate the main phone body. This tab is very tiny, only about one-sixteenth of an inch wide.
Press on the plastic tab with your fingernail.
Continue holding down the plastic piece while sliding the faceplate off the top of the phone. The faceplate only slides off from the top, so don't try to force it in a different direction.
Release the plastic tab.
Line up the new faceplate with the top portion of your phone then slide it downward until it latches into place. You'll typically hear a soft click when the faceplate is secure. When properly placed, the new faceplate should not be able to wiggle or slide unless you press down the plastic tab once again
The faceplate and head unit is is attached via a flat ribbon cable. (Caution only continue if you have some courage). If you open the faceplate you will see that the ribbon cable is seated in too a flat connector on the PCB (Printed Circuit Board). This connector has a locking mechanism on it that when locked presses the contacts of the cable to the connector. Ensure that the cable is seated properly and that the latch or the lock is in the locked position.
Assuming that the tension lessons when the unit is closed so it draws away from the connector and when the unit is open it pulls tension creating a contact. If you see no signs of mishap on this end of the connector try the other end.
Hope this helps.
Note that the product is not an item they keep in stock, so it may take 1-2 weeks or more before you receive them. Be patient.
Here are the steps to replace the bulbs. You will need a small (#1) Phillips screwdriver and a soldering iron (low heat). A very small flat blade screwdriver (1/8") will also be helpful.
1) Remove the faceplate from the radio and bring it to a well-lit work table.
2) Remove the four Phillips screws on the back on the faceplate.
3) Carefully separate the back half of the faceplate cover from the front half. There are three locking tabs along the top, and three locking tabs along the bottom. I used the small flat blade screwdriver to separate the two halves.
4) Once the back half of the faceplate has been removed, re-install two of the Phillips screws to hold the circuit board in place (one screw on each end). You don't need to screw them down tightly; just screw them in until you begin to feel them stop. These screws will keep the circuit board from separating from the front faceplate and causing the buttons to fall out!
5) Locate the two bulbs. They are labeled PL 901 and PL 902 (may also be labeled PL 1 and PL 2). Carefully unsolder the bulbs and remove them from the circuit board. You may want to do one at a time.
6) Each bulb has a colored cover to change the color of the light (I jokingly refer to them as 'bulb condoms'). Remove the covers and carefully slide them in place on the new bulbs. You may want to slightly dampen the bulbs to aid in sliding the covers on. Be sure to slide them all the way down.
7) Solder the new bulbs in place. They are not polarity sensitive.
8) Trim off the excess wires.
9) If you installed the two screws in Step 4, remove them.
10) Carefully re-attach the rear faceplate cover to the front faceplate cover, making sure that all six locking tabs snap in place.
11) Put the four Phillips screws in the rear faceplate and carefully tighten them.
That's it! Now, put the faceplate back on the radio, turn it on, and enjoy your lighted display!
I have the same deck and a very similar problem. Mine was stuck in the out position and would beep and move a little but there was no lights or music. I called Alpine and they told me that sometimes the inner sleeve around the deck will pinch the unit a little. I took my unit out of the dash and sure enough the plastic face plate came loose and moved about 1/32 of an inch when I slide it back in place and turned the power back on it worked perfectly. Hope this helps.
Detach the faceplate and look at the electrical contacts on the back of it for damage/dirt - you can spray it with electrical contact cleaner. Do the same to the contacts on the head unit - it sounds to me like one or more of them are a bit loose or otherwise not working properly.
Your display lights are burnt out. This is a common problem. It is covered under warranty. Send it to Sony for service.
Anyway, under the Sony faceplate there are two small, different colored leds which control the color. The light is aparently transfered through pieces of clear plastic (best example I can think of is the piece of plastic over the led in a household smoke alram)to most of the buttons and the backlighting. If your display has burnt out you may just be able to swap the leds for new ones. As for the intermittent green could it just be a faulty solder on the board.