Question about Kenmore 65924 Electric Dryer
Not likely ... if the "pig tail" has 3 prongs that plug into the 220 then the extra wire is for the newer 4 prong standard that the industry has gone to. If the dryer is getting power at all this is not the issue.
take the back off after disconnecting your power course ( of course) and check your heating element... see if its clogged up. clean it all out, clear any loose debris and set it aside securely so that it wont accidentally move or shock you or cause a fire then turn it so you can see the exposed element.
Plug it back in and run the dryer.... if the element works then perhaps it was a dirty sensor or something ( there are a couple of sensors you will see that are installed in the side wall of the heating element, there is also a thermostat). If the element fails to heat, unplug the dryer from the power source and check the wires going into the element and its sensors, thermostat... if any of them look burnt or corroded near the female coupler ( wire will look black and toasty around the outside insulation closest to the connector on the sensor or w/e). Buy a new coupler and some heavy grade electrical tape and some wire strippers. YOU HAVE TO BUY HEAVY GAUGE FEMALE COUPLERS AND NOT THE THIS CAR STEREO TYPE AND YOU MUST USE HIGH GRADE ELECTRICAL TAPE CERTIFIED FOR 220!!... unplug the wire and remove the old coupler with wire cutters and strip back the insulation and inch or so to the bare wire and inspect the copper for any corrosion. once you find a good section twist it a bit and place it in the neck of the new coupler then use your stripping tool' front teeth to crimp the coupler onto the bare wire. make sure you have enough slack in the wire to connect it back to the sensor because they dont give you that much wire to play with and I would hate for you to have to replace the whole wire if you didn't have to. Next, liberally apply the electrical tape starting at the neck of the coupler and working your way down the length of the bare wire. You only need to use as much tape make it as thick as the rubber/plastic wire insulation that is already on the wire. Make sure you put tension on the tape as you apply it to ensure god coverage and adhesion.
Reconnect the wire(s) and make sure the element is secure and no lose debris is anywhere near any moving parts or electrical wires or exposed heating coils, then plug the pug tail bag into the 220 and start the dryer... if the element still does not work after the repair you should use a voltage tester on the sensors, thermostats and the element it self... then sensors are fairly reasonable and common sense you have a Kenmore but the elements vary greatly... a new heating element can cost $14 to $45+ dollars U.S.
Dont feel bad after doing the wire repair if it doesn't work because its worth your time. If the wire repair DOES work you are only out about 6 bucks like I said. But you just have to trouble shoot these things...
If you plan on keeping the dryer I would also suggest going ahead and replacing the belt tension pulley found under the dryer tub usually affixed to either the side or front panel or the dryer... it only costs about 7 to 15 dollars but if you have any age at all on that dryer those bearings in the pulley usually and commonly go bad making a high pitched metal sound as the dryer turns... may as well replace it and the belt while you are in there. 2 and a half hours of work if its your first time doing all of this work combines... just take your time and download a manual and print it out if you need to.
repair guys make a good living fixing very simple stuff lol... but its a pain.
I am not a professional, just a family man with limited financial resources and lots of trial and error... I have saved lots of money spending a Saturday or Sunday taking a crash course in appliance repair lol.
Posted on Nov 14, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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