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Both rear brakes drag constantly. I have replaced the master cylinder, both calipers, and adjusted the power booster push rod. I'm out of ideas

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  • webbcv63 Nov 14, 2009

    the cables are disconnected

  • webbcv63 Nov 14, 2009

    where is the proportioning valve?

  • Dale Cobb May 11, 2010

    on your car, I believe you may even have two proportioning valves. They should be under the rear of the car connected to the linkage. They probably need to be taken apart and cleaned, if they're very rusted, may even have to be replaced. Then the linkage will have to be adjusted. The valves can build up sediment that will restrict movement and sometimes even lock in one position. The two proportioning valves are cross fed to work with the anti-locks depending on the year of your car. It may also be one valve with two plungers, one for each caliper (right & left). The spools need to be cleaned and linkage adjusted. Depending on your level of mechanical ability, you should be able to do this yourself.

  • Dale Cobb May 11, 2010

    you may have a bad or plugged proportioning valve. this valve equalized the pressure each brake receives while braking.

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  • Master
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Adjust the emergency brakes cables.

Posted on Nov 14, 2009

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2 Answers

What do I do if my brakes keep applying themselves after I replaced the brake booster?


going to have to check the whole system --was this reason booster was replaced --recheck installation is brake rod properly adjusted -vacuum line and valve working --is master cylinder performing properly no seals damaged or blown ---are the lines in good shape --the abs controller functioning --are the calipers performing correctly not sticking or jamming --are the rubber hoses good sometimes the hoses deteriorate internally and not let fluid return --if rear drums are they adjusted correctly

Oct 01, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1986 5.0 brake problems...replaced brake booster twice and master cylinder once....now there is no power to the brakes...the brakes are stiff while the care is off....but when the car is on the brake pedal...


Did you check and adjust the push rod that comes out of the booster, and in turn pushes the rod in the master cylinder??
If its too long, the piston in the master cylinder won't move back far enough to pull brake fluid in.
If it's too short, it won't contact the piston at all.

It doesn't move as much as you might think.
If instructions came with the new booster, they may address this, and how to adjust it.

Aug 29, 2011 | 1986 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

Install power brake booster on 1988 ford ranger


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION NOTE: Make sure that the booster rubber reaction disc is properly installed if the master cylinder push rod is removed or accidentally pulled out. A dislodged disc may cause excessive pedal travel and extreme operation sensitivity. The disc is black compared to the silver colored valve plunger that will be exposed after the push rod and front seal is removed. The booster unit is serviced as an assembly and must be replaced if the reaction disc cannot be properly installed and aligned, or if it cannot be located within the unit itself.

  1. Disconnect the stop lamp switch wiring to prevent running the battery down.
  2. Support the master cylinder from the underside with a prop.
  3. Remove the master cylinder-to-booster retaining nuts.
  4. Loosen the clamp that secures the manifold vacuum hose to the booster check valve, and remove the hose. Remove the booster check valve.
  5. Pull the master cylinder off the booster and leave it supported by the prop, far enough away to allow removal of the booster assembly.
  6. From inside the cab on vehicles equipped with push rod mounted stop lamp switch, remove the retaining pin and slide the stop lamp switch, push rod, spacers and bushing off the brake pedal arm.
  7. From the engine compartment remove the bolts that attach the booster to the dash panel. To install:
  8. Mount the booster assembly on the engine side of the dash panel by sliding the bracket mounting bolts and valve operating rod in through the holes in the dash panel. NOTE: Make certain that the booster push rod is positioned on the correct side of the master cylinder to install onto the push pin prior to tightening the booster assembly to the dash.
  9. From inside the cab, install the booster mounting bracket-to-dash panel retaining nuts.
  10. Position the master cylinder on the booster assembly, install the retaining nuts, and remove the prop from underneath the master cylinder.
  11. Install the booster check valve. Connect the manifold vacuum hose to the booster check valve and secure with the clamp.
  12. From inside the cab on vehicles equipped with push rod mounted stop lamp switch, install the bushing and position the switch on the end of the push rod. Then install the switch and rod on the pedal arm, along with spacers on each side, and secure with the retaining pin.
  13. Connect the stop lamp switch wiring.
  14. Start the engine and check brake operation.
Fig. 1: Check the booster pushrod adjustment using a gauge with the shown dimensions

tecnovative_78.gif
Fig. 2: Exploded view of the typical power brake booster tecnovative_79.gif Fig. 3: Booster vacuum hose connections - 2.3L & 2.9L

tecnovative_80.gif
Fig. 4: Booster vacuum hose connections for the 4.0L

tecnovative_81.gif

Feb 03, 2011 | 1988 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

1992 MALLARD SPORT RV ON OSKOSH CHASSIS - Dodge 360 Front brakes come on by themselves, bleed them, problem continues sometimes in 2 blocks, sometimes in 5-100 miles. Replaced front calipers, pads and...


That sounds to me like a problem with the power brake booster unit or the master cylinder, the wrong master cylinder could be installed, and this could happen if the plunger rod from the vacuum booster unit is too long for the opening on the rear of the master cylinder, that is why any time that a master cylinder is replaced to be certain that the depth of the plunger valve in the rear of the master cylinder is the same as the original part that was removed. Also the brake booster itself could be malfunctioning and activating the brakes with just the engine vacuum.

Jun 07, 2010 | Dodge Ram Pickup 3500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to take off brake booster


Basically remove fluid from master cylinder wtih siringe.
Carefully remove brake lines with the proper wrench.
Remove master cylinder.
Once the master is removed you can see the bolts holding the booster on remove them and remove the booster. Installiation is the reverse.
Be careful of the push rod. Do not touch the adjuster nut on it until you have installed the new booster and mastercylinder and feel the need for adjustment of the rod. The only time I would touch it is if after bleeding you feel as if the brakes were dragging or pedal travel was extensive.
I strongly recommed you get a shop manual for this procedure.

Mar 15, 2010 | Toyota Corolla Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Front brakes dragging


First of all you will need to raise the wheels off the ground. Check both sides to see if they are both holding. Here is a list of what can cause the hanging in order of probablility;

1) Caliper or Caliper hose. (If the caliper is not free it won't release the pressure from the pad. Always replace the hose with the caliper because the hose may look good, but can collapse internally holding the pressure.

2) Master cylinder. Not likely but possible.

3) ABS is engaging. This can be caused by a short, it is rare, but it does happen. The short is telling the system that the wheel needs to be applied.

Aug 28, 2009 | 1997 Oldsmobile Bravada

2 Answers

Replaced the brake booster how do you adjust for


Possibly the Proportioning valve. its where the lines go after the master. it has a bleeder screw of some sort on it. The pins inside wear out and stick causing uneven pressure. Replace or rebuild it if that be the case. Also chect the master for fluid leaks at the end of the piston where it connects to the booster push rod. If its leaking rebuild or replace it. 

Aug 09, 2009 | 1994 Honda Accord

2 Answers

Brake Master Cylinder Push Rod Clearance


No Adjustment.Rod is made into booster,there's a short rod between master cyclinder and booster but not adjustable!!

May 10, 2009 | 1999 Saturn SL

1 Answer

2002 tahoe breaks lock up during driving


i would check front and rear brakes if rears are drum brakes i would inspect springs and hardware making sure everthing is conected and in place also make sure they are adjusted properly in the front and if rear disc i would make sure to grease caliper slides these allow caliper to move and its important that all moving brake parts are free push caliper pistons in alittle to see if they are sized or not booster is ok and most of the time when master goes it will leak where it meets booster and you will have a low brake pedal or no brakes

Mar 31, 2009 | 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

No brakes 94 Nissan pickup


Hi

You sound like you are having fun !...............Not !

Brake Clamp, off all the brake hoses, and see if pedal returns ?

What have you done to the rear brakes, is the adjustment correct ?

I suspect your problem may be in the master cylinder area.?

Possibly the little rod behind the master cylinder ?

When you bled it, did the brake fluid pump out merrily ?

Let me know your thoughts !

John

Jan 18, 2009 | 1997 Honda Accord

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