Question about Dell UltraSharp 1905FP 19" LCD Monitor
Yman1949, Your 1905FP unit is not working as it was designed to do! Here is something you can relate your problem to. The white light needed to see what is on your lcd panel is produced by "cold-cathode-fluorescent-lamps" (2) that require 600-1200vac to start and sustain the fluorescent light output. If the DC source (switch-mode-power-supply) or the CCFL's electronic ballast circuit (inverter) fails you will have a black SCREEN to look at. However, your problem is just a little different, yet still a common one that can be dealt with in the same manner as any lcd with a faulty SMPS or INVERTER circuit. I highly suspect that over time (3yrs) this unit has developed a (1, maybe 2) "thermally stressed" solder joint(s) in either of the two circuits, and have now turned thermally intermittant. Once that occurs, the gases in the air we breath start to play a major role in making the problem WORSE!! They now invade the void in the thermally FRACTURED solder joint, and begin to OXIDIZE the metal (tin,lead,silver) causing more resistance in the surrounding area, thus taking your monitor a longer period of time to turn on than before. If the monitor were to have warm air force fed thru the rear ventilation slots prior to turning on the unit, to warm it up from being off all night, you might prove out this therory. This unit might be fixed quite easily with just reheating a "frosty" looking solder joint on a printed circuit board. Finding it is another thing! I use an old WWII surplus inspection microscope to find them when a magnifying glass can't cut it!! Well, yman1949 let me know what you find out, lmistyrel
@aim.com because I'm curious. You can do additional comment when you have time, after visiting YOUTUBE to watch some video clips of "LCD monitor disassembly" and "LCD monitor repair"!!! The longer ones are better but none have purchased any CLOSE-UP lenses to show any real close-ups required to SEE the PROBLEM of HAIRLINE thermal fractures of power transistors and inverter "step-up transformers" on the suspect boards. You may also visit a site run by another tech on fixya. www.ccl-la.com/badcaps.htm who also knows about the common failure modes of the crappy far-east junk monitors we import into the USA. Pay particular attention to pictures of failed "electrolytic filter capacitors that have "swollen/domed" looking tops that mayor may not be leaking stuff out the top or bottom!!! Good luck and I hope to see some stuff added to the above request. I'm 12fixlouie aka louie12fix
Posted on Nov 15, 2009
Try taking the Monitor to factory settings. Check for Monitor power options in the control panel. Check for your video card, it may be that Video card is delaying the Video output and its nothing wrong with the Monitor.
Posted on Nov 15, 2009
This is a common problem with this model after a few years of use. The problem is caused by a failure of the filter capacitors on the power supply board. Here is a picture of the power supply board with the problem capacitors circled in yellow and below the picture is a link to a repair guide for the 1905FP and 1907FP monitors, the repair guide has full video instructions and parts list.
I hope this helps,
Posted on Sep 24, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It's most likely a couple of the eletrolytic capacitors on the power supply board. This type of cap can go bad over time, and that would lead to the symptoms worsening over time like yours has. It's mostly likely a couple of 10V, 100uF caps in my experience. They should be easy to identify: they will be the ones with the top bulging upwards. Replace those and you should be good to go! If there aren't any bulging caps, just replace all the 100uf caps. (there should be no more than 5)
If you attempt this yourself though be carefull: any caps that haven't gone bad can hold a charge even when the monitor is powered off. Depending on the capacitor of the cap, accidentally contacting the leads on a charged cap can be anywhere from painfull to dangerous! A preventative measure is using an insulated handle screwdriver, short both leads of the cap together on the backside of the board to drain the cap.
Posted on Dec 07, 2009
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