Question about LG WM-1485FHD Front Load Washer

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Bearing stuck on spider, direct drive LG washing machine 1485FHD

While disassembling my WM1485FHD to replace the bearings & seal, the larger inner bearing came away with the spider when I removed the inner drum from the outer.

All the guides I've seen assume that both bearings remain in the housing attached to the outer drum, where knocking them out is then a relatively trivial matter.

I've tried rocking the heated bearing, acting against the spider, but I've not succeeded in moving the thing at all yet. This is probably due to the poor access for the tools I have and fact that the seal (hard to remove completely due to the metallic parts) gets in the way and absorbs the bulk of the force.

Short of getting a set of pullers to remove the bearing, has anyone come across this before, or have any suggestions?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: bad bearings on front loading lg washer 1832cw

Sorry, but you are not so lucky. LG should not even offer those parts, as it takes special hydraulic presses to install some of that. For anyone but the manufacturer them self you must replace the back half of the outer drum (I believe it is a 3045ER0008C in your case) which contains the installed seal and bearing, plus I'd recommend replacing the spider asm 4434ER0002A, as the shaft may be a bit worn where it contacted the seal and bearing, and you don't really want to go through all that work (at least 2 hours) only to have to do it again. A FixYa rating would be appreciated. Thanks.

Posted on Nov 13, 2008

stradeteox
  • 88 Answers

SOURCE: replace bearing

You can try a puller but typically it is recommended to replace the entire rear outer tub half (which comes with the bearings already pressed into it). You will also need the tub seal that goes between the front and rear tub halves. Hope this helps.

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: I'M TRYING TO REPLACE THE DRUM BEARING ON AN LG WASHING MACHINE

Try this website, they have parts, and a tab you can click on to see your dryer in parts.
Good Luck,
I hope this helps.

http://www.repairclinic.com/LG-Dryer-Parts

Posted on Nov 12, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: suspect drum bearings

Solution 3 just helped enormously when replacing the bearings on my WM-1485FHD - cheers! I would say though that having a 10mm wall-drive socket & spanner is essential for getting the spider free from the drum. My inner bearing was seized solid on the shaft meaning I had no choice but to replace the spider aswell. The cause of my woe was the fact that the bolt that holds the drum assembly together had come loose, this allowed play in the shaft and lead to the water passing the seal. I now plan to check this semi-regularly as it saves a *lot* of hassle.

Posted on Nov 22, 2009

  • 489 Answers

SOURCE: LG front loader washer had

Order the replacement drum assembly. It's a warranty part and LG will ship it to you. Call them at 18002430000

Posted on Jun 16, 2011

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http://www.yourspares.co.uk/parts/hotpoint/washing-machines/widl146/parts/ys75567/bearing-kit-HPTC00203002.aspx
However.. this is not a task the average mechanic will be able to accomplish. It involves complete disassembly of the cabinet, the removal of the outer tub front cover and finally removal of the inner tub.
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Not as simple as it seems. Definately a technique acquired from lots of stripping. There are times when the spider has a broken rivit internally holding one arm onto the rotating drum. If so, everythind has to be opened to enable you to remove inner drum. If not, a rubber hammer and a pulley. Remove appropriate screws proceed to pull assembly off.

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WHEN SPINING MAKING A LOAD NOISE


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Sep 27, 2009 | LG Washing Machines

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I recently replaced my bearings and seal for about $60. I could have bought the bearing cheaper online but I was in a hurry. If you do a search online there are several blogs about replacing these bearings. Here is a link for a service manual for $ 18 http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=659075&PPStack=1 You pretty much have to disassemble the washer but it is not really that difficult depending on your mechanical experience. The manual should lay it all out for you. There are 2 notes on these frigidare washers: Sometimes the spider arms on the inner drum break and you will have to buy the complete inner drum assembly. I have heard they are warranted for 25 years, but they most likely will not warranty them if the owner does the work. Also, Frigidare does not list the bearings seperately, but you can buy the bearings from a bearing supply house, online or in your town. The bearing numbers are on the side of the old bearings when you remove them.
NOTE- The bearings that came out of mine were 6306-2Z and 6307-2Z (shielded) I replaced mine with 6306-2RS and 6307-2RS (sealed). The significance is that the shielded bearings offer minimal protection from water where the sealed bearings are built to seal out water/contaminants if you new seal ever fails. The seal I used was a CR15939 rubber coated seal.
If you need any other information, let me know
Hope this helps

Jan 17, 2009 | Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer

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How to change a bearing on front loader washing machine?


To change the bearing(s) and/or seal on a Simpson 45S100C 5.5kg Front loading washing machine:
----------------------------
1) Disconnect from the power, water etc. and find your self some space;
2) Remove the lid (two screws at back of machine) and the back panel. I also took off the concrete weight on top to give myself some more room and less weight to move;
3) Remove the fan belt;
4) Unscrew the bolt on the end of the drive shaft. This holds the pulley in place;
5) The pulley is pushed on to a V-bushing. It may be very hard to get off. I found the easiest way was to put a large screwdriver behind the pulley hub and the 'spider' bracket behind. Then use leverage to pop it off. The V-bushing should then slide off the shaft;
6) Remove the three bolts that hold the ends of the spider to the drum. I found these very hard to get moving and they are also awkwardly placed. Use a socket set and you may need a bit of rust-remover/degreaser (WD-40 in Australia);
7) Remove the three bolts holding the central part of the spider to the drum;
8) Tap the end of the drive shaft with a hammer while pulling on the spider. The whole spider and the bearings should slide off the shaft;
9) The spider holds two bearings (one next to the drum and one next to the pulley). I’d recommend replacing both. In my case and apparently in most cases it is the bearing closest to the drum that gets damaged, usually due to water leaking through the drive-shaft seal. The two bearings are different sizes 6205 and 6206. When ordering replacements, I’d recommend rubber sealed ‘RS’ bearings. There is also a shaft seal that sits between the larger bearing and the tub. The seal comes from Simpson ($25). The bearing can be bought from any bearing supply company and are about half the cost of the ‘official’ bearings, and probably better quality. I paid $16 for the 6205 and $20 for the 6206;
10) Knock out the old bearings. The correct way to do this is with bearing pullers etc, but I used a long steel rod (one of the transport locking rods that new machine’s come with) and a hammer (not even rubber). First knock out the large bearing and the drive shaft seal by inserting the rod through from the other bearing side and hit firmly while alternating the position of the force around the case of the bearing. I propped the spider against a brick to ensure the bearing and seal could pop out freely. Now turn around and repeat for the other bearing;
11) Clean up the spider and shaft, ensuring you remove any rust and debris;
12) Tap the new bearings into place. Again I used a hammer and firm tapping around the ring of the bearing;
13) Tap in the new drive shaft seal;
14) Reassemble.

Jul 15, 2008 | Washing Machines

9 Answers

Suspect drum bearings


LG Direct Drive bearing replacement The following guide is written to help you assess if replacing the bearings is a job you can undertake and complete. This is not written to be specific to any particular direct drive model but it will help in all cases.
Must do's Before commencing work on an electrical appliance:
1) Unplug the appliance from the wall socket, ensure the appliance on/off switch is in the off position.
2) Turn off the inlet water at the isolation valves and disconnect the inlet hoses from the appliance.
3) Clear a space and plan where you are going to put items you remove from the appliance.
4) Have pen and paper handy for making notes, a digital camera is ideal for taking a picture of wiring connections for future reference (**PHOTO**)
Strip down 1) Remove the worktop by undoing 2 screws at the rear, slide backwards and lift off.
2) FROM THE BACK.....Remove the back panel (4 screws) giving access to the rear of the tub unit. Disconnect the wiring to the motor, thermostat and heater, disconnect earth wires, (**PHOTO**). The drum pulley, which is the ROTOR of the direct drive system has a single bolt to undo. Slacken this bolt a turn or two, DO not remove completely. Gently tap the bolt with a soft faced hammer or drift, this will assist in the removal of the Rotor. Remove the bolt and remove the rotor, careful as it has a series of magnets around its inner circumference. The stator of the direct drive system is now in front of you, there are 6 bolts holding it in place. Remove these and very carefully remove the stator without damaging it, its very expensive, look after it. Depending on your model there could be a spacer between the stator and the tub unit, if so remove this also.
3) FROM THE FRONT.....Open the filter door (left side of kick plate) if there is a small drain hose, remove stopper and drain off any water in there. There is 1 screw to remove which is at the side of the filter, then slide the kick plate sideways should release the plinth from the cabinet. Open the door, the seal clamp band that secures the door gasket to the cabinet should be removed. If the door seal has a further hose attached, remove it.
4) Read all of this paragraph, there are 2 versions.....Remove 3 screws holding the lower edge of the front panel to the cabinet. Remove the soap drawer, remove 2 screws in the control panel that secure the soap box, depending on model there could be a third in the lower right hand corner, if there is, remove it. If there isn't read on further.. Carefully slide the front panel downwards about 20mm and it will disengage from the cabinet, carefully look behind it and disconnect the door lock wiring to allow complete removal. If there was not a third screw (lower right hand corner of the control panel) then the control panel will have to be removed. From the top remove the clip retaining the hose that goes into the top of the tub unit, remove the clip holding the large hose on the left, slide the soap box backwards slightly and hang over the back of the cabinet, all the hoses still connected. To remove the control panel look under the top frame and release the two lugs whilst easing the panel away from the cabinet. disconnect the wiring and remove away completely.
5) From the bottom remove the sump hose from the tub, the screw that secures the pressure bottle to the tub. Remove the suspension pins from the top position of the legs and push the legs clear of the tub unit. The tub unit will now be hanging from the top springs. Using strong wire or rope, loop the hook of the spring, lift clear of the cabinet and lower the tub unit to the floor. Repeat this on the other spring which then allows the tub unit to be lifted through the front of the cabinet.
6) Place the tub unit door seal up, remove the screws that secure tub front 1/2 to the rear 1/2. This allows the inner drum to be removed, if its tight use soft faced hammer, DO NOT damage the drum shaft.
Inspect the drum shaft collar, the collar is located at the base of the shaft and is the surface that the oil seal mates to. Look for indents or circular ruts where the previous seal has worn the collar away
6a70_2.jpg if damaged you will need a new spider unit. Do not clean up using abrasive cloth, try the green pan scrubber from the kitchen instead. If damaged and you don't replace it the bearing replacement will fail prematurely as the oil seal fails to keep the wash water away.
There are several different kits, comprising of 2 bearings and 1 oil seal. To obtain the correct kit you will need the model number of your appliance, eg WM1480FHD or WM1485FHD or WM16225FD
all use bearing kit 1 available here other kits are available for other models including belt drives and washer dryers
The bearings can now be removed, the seats cleaned and made ready for the new bearings and water seal. A light cover of grease can be smeared on the inner edge of the seal.
7) There is a tub seal which fits in the recess between the front and rear 1/2's of the tub unit, it is adviseable to renew that seal before rebuild is commenced.
8) Rebuild is a reversal of the above, at every step double check electrical and hose connections and before you refit the cabinet front.
Hope you find this guide useful, some paragraphs can be applied to the belt drives also.

Nov 18, 2007 | LG WM-1485FHD Front Load Washer

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