Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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Coil frosting i have a side beside ge and ive replaced the motherboard and the temp sensor and the heat element and its still frosting up the coils what am i doing wrong

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  • GE Master
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Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board ( you already know , since you changed it ) . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10055 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp , when to cycle off , associated with the fan speed also .

Posted on Nov 15, 2009

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  • GE Master
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Are the coils clean? then touch the top of the compressor and if it's overly warm to hot the unit could be low on refrigerant/freon

Posted on Nov 14, 2009

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The termination thermostat did yall replace it? I was just thinking you say yall replaced the sensor? The sensor would report back to the control board what it was reading temp wise in the freezer but it would not have anythang to do with defrost heater and termination thermostat. All it would do is relay back the results of the defrost function. Let's review the defrost operation of a GE new fangled ice box.

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Side by Side GE Refrigerator freezer will not defrost which allows frost/ice to build up. I have cleaned all the areas behind the unit as well as under the unit. After I manuely defrost the freezer it...


The defrost circuit has failed in your fridge. Typical failure is with the defrost heating element. To troubleshoot, you need to remove the remove the contents of your freezer section and remove the freezer back panel to access the evaporator coil. You will need a hair dryer to melt the ice on coil. The heating element is attached to the coil. Use a meter to confirm that the element is bad. Hope this helps you.

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I am also getting massive frost build up on the freezer side


depending on the model, 1-5 years. 5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged 5. defrost cycle not functioning properly if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. there defrost cycle starts with the timer. at a certain time of day for a specific time, the timer turns the compressor off and turns on the heater element located at the bottom of the evaporator coil. this stays on until the coil temp sensor reaches a certain temperature to let the timer know that the coils are defrosted and turns off the power to the element. the defrosted water drains to the condensate pan. if the timer is bad, it will never go into defrost, or never get out of it. if the element is bad, the coils will never defrost. if the temp sensor is bad, it?ll go into defrost, but it will either tell the timer that it?s always frozen or already defrosted, resulting in the element never turning on (stays frosted) or never turning off (eventually burning out the element). defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

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1 Answer

I have a GE TFX28PB with an FF error light.


FF probably stands for "Frost Free". Yes. Your defrost circuit must have a temp sensor to tell it when the defrost is working. And for your fridge...it isnt.

The warm fridge/barely cold freezer are both common symptoms of extreme frosting of the cooling coils.

You need to manually defrost this unit and replace the defrost element and/or the controller board/power supply. You can buy them pretty cheaply online. Replacement is a lot easier if you just shut off the fridge and let it come to room temp before removing the coil cover.

Go to the GE website and get an online diagram of your fridge so you can see where the parts all reside. If you timer is mechanical it should have a way to manually trigger it to confirm the heater element works. IC based boards need special commands to go manual.....but you should be able to get this info from GE.

Good luck and be careful.

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Cleaned the coils but freezer not freezing and inside not getting cold what is wrong


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1 Answer

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Something has gone bad in the defrost circuit.(Heating element was notorious for this) but could be a timer or thermostat. Frost buildup will cause inefficient cooling as will dirty condenser coils.
Eric

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2 Answers

Fridge and Freezer are Warm Ice is still being made


Hi - I just had the same problem on a 48 Monogram 1996 model.
The guys at the factory told my local service center that it was the main logic board ($200 for parts) and they replaced it, but that wasn't it.
It was the evaporator sensor. i don't claim to understand it all, but I think that the sensor is responsible for telling a heating element to turn on and defrost. If it does not do it's job, then frost builds up (You can feel the frost if you feel up in the freezer, up hight and in the front)) The frost keeps the cold air from getting to the fridge. Eventually the logic unit will freak out because ti is trying to keep the fridge cold, but the fridge send back that it is hot.
The repair guy may not want to replace the sensor because it is like an hour and half to get back in there. And it is a tight fit.

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