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Near-new tumble dryer has no power. Fuse, supply and connections all OK. Not in "pause mode". Maybe safety cutouts have operated due to kinked hose? How to reset them?

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The thermal cut-outs are not resettable. You can by-pass them to check the operation but you still need to replace the bad cut-out.

Posted on Jan 10, 2008

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My tumble dryer is not heating up, the drum is still turning. I have cleaned all of the filters and emptied the water.

Have you checked the resistance of the heaters? What about the timer and thermostat? Have you checked it? There is also a safety bimetallic cutout. Have you checked this?

Mar 08, 2015 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer won't turn on

turn the breaker on and off.If the dryer is electrical it should be a double breaker (2 switches connected with a small bar across)
Unplug the dryer and plug in after 10 seconds - might reset the electronics
dryer has thermal cutouts for safety so leave it unplugged for 1 hour see if that helps. If it starts and quits again calling service is best solution. We are talking lots of voltage here and fire is not an option
There are internal fuses as well If they blow you definitely have a problem
Todays dryers are more complex and they do need somebody qualified
to service them safely
good luck

Feb 06, 2012 | LG DLEX2901V Dryer

1 Answer

Hotpoint tdl30p thermal cutout required-no heater element working but heater element is fine when cutout is temporarily bridged-need part nr of cutout

Usually, there are 2 or 3 thremal cutouts in these machines (Side by side).

They should be changed together. I'm not sure if THT1001 is a hotpoint part number.

If you're in the UK, then go look at: where you will get the pair for £8.95

My searches get drowned by UK entries because that's where I am!) If you're in the US, just google "hotpoint tumble thermal cutout" and you'll find loads (Note that proces vary hugely from $10 a pair to about $25!)

Jun 30, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

My Fisher paykel dryer does not heat

Thermostat Cutout – Manual Reset (Electrical)
Type SPST 30 Amps/240 Volts AC
Trip Temperature 212°F (100°C)
Diagnostic Mode
Entering the Diagnostic Mode
(a) Turn the power supply to the dryer on.
(b) Press and hold the Auto Dry down button, then press the Power
The dryer is now in level 0 of the diagnostic mode. After initial entry into the
diagnostic mode, the Start/Pause button operates the dryer as normal. Press
the Auto Dry up or down buttons to scroll through the fault levels.
There are several levels of diagnostics, most of which are used in
development and production. These levels may bring on various LEDs, but
the level of use for the service technician is that of the last fault.
Last Fault
To enter the last fault diagnostics, enter the diagnostic mode as described
above, then press the Auto Dry up button three times. The last fault will be
displayed on the drying progress LEDs
Conductivity Contact Impedance Check
To enter the conductivity contact impedance check, enter the diagnostic mode
as described above, then press the Auto Dry up button five times. In this
mode, touching damp clothes or fingers across the conductivity contacts will
cause the LED display to change. If the contacts, or the harness to them,
have gone open circuit, no change will occur in the LED display. This is a
useful method of checking the integrity of the sensor circuits.
To exit the diagnostic mode, press any cycle button.
Entering the Data Download Mode
(a) Turn the power supply to the dryer on.
(b) Press and hold the Auto Dry down button, then press the Power
button. This enters the diagnostic mode.
(c) Press the Regular button.
Encoded data is transmitted serially out the red Auto LED, and is be captured
by an optical download pen attached to a PC where “Smart Tool” software
interprets the data to aid servicing.
To exit, press the Regular button.
Entering the Showroom Mode
(a) Turn the power supply to the dryer on.
(b) Press and hold the Air Dry button, then press the Power button.
The LEDs will flash in a random sequence.
To exit, turn off the power supply to the dryer at the wall.
Tell me what sort of faults codes you can come up with and I will tell you what it means but in the meantime reset the limit and clean out the lint problem, open the stopped up vent. That dryer has to breath or that safety will kick out again. I have the manual

Sep 05, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No power to dryer, checked fuse and power outlet tey are OK?

First, use a voltmeter to confirm that you have 240 volts to the outer two terminals where the cord connects onto the dryer, and 120 volts from each of the outer terminals to the center terminal. If that checks out OK, look for a broken belt. (a broken belt opens a switch to prevent the motor from running) If that is OK, look for a safety thermostat, about the size of a dime with two wires on it, usually near the top of the heating element. If no continuity there, replace it and try to improve the vent to prevent future problems with it. Newer dryers have auto reset safety thermos, but older ones didn't and they acted like a fuse and needed to be replaced if they tripped. Next time you post a problem, please list the brand and model number. Thanks.

Oct 26, 2008 | Dryers

2 Answers

Kenmore clothes dryer model number 110.86880800: drum turns but no heat

hi Electric heating elements, found in electric dryers, are self-contained units located in the back of the dryer. A defective heating element is frequently the source of no-heat or drying problems. Remove the back service panel to gain access to the elements.
The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher than 20 ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.e the heater:

Step 1: Remove the back of the dryer. If necessary, also remove the cabinet top.

Step 2: Disconnect the leads and remove the screws that hold the duct in position. Then lift the entire heater unit out of the dryer.

Step 3: Remove the screws that hold the heating element in the duct.

Step 4: Slip the new heating element into the heating duct the same way the old one came out. Be careful not to damage the resistance coils. Replace the screws that hold the heating element in the duct, reconnect the leads, and screw the unit back into position

Sep 13, 2008 | Dryers

1 Answer

T700 Dryer Won't heat

not turning off, is caused by a small stepper motor attached to the back of the timer, that actually moves the timer (if a mechanical knob, my memory for obscure (sorry) models isnt perfect) they fail and are replaceable, separately to the timer, or the timer can be replaced with a rebuilt one, at approx the same cost as buying a stepper motor,

No heat is caused by the failure of a thermal cutout(thermal fuse overtemp cutout or any of a dozen other names) a small device like this 5850e1d.jpg or this 4947033.jpg screwed on the ducting between the fan housing and the exhaust, with wires to the terminals.
when you stopped the unit while it was very hot, heat built up enough that the thermal cutout melted. test with ohmmeter or bulb and battery, no conduct -replace

There are only a few cutouts common to most dryer models the local parts guy will have one to fit, even if marked with a different brand name,
generic compatible timer available at local parts guy
saving a 100mile drive

Sep 09, 2008 | Asko T701 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My tumble dryer works ok but theres no heat been told i need a new thermostat but cant find one with my model number

Non-Specific answer - no dryer model given
The thermostat is likely not at fault,
there is on the exhaust duct of most dryers a thermal protector, thermal cutout, thermal fuse (and a half dozen other names for the same thing)
If the air temperature becomes too hot due to blocked exhaust ducts, lint in the fan, lint screen not emptied or someone opened the door in the middle of the cycle then closed it again. the device fails to protect the much more expensive heater coil and thermostat.
Trace the exhaust duct from the fan housing for a device that looks like this 07b92b9.jpg or this fd3277a.jpg with wires to the terminals.
Test with an ohmmeter or bulb and battery, conducts ok no conduct replace.
take the dud one to the local parts store,
there are very few thermal cutouts, common to many dryers, they will be in stock. and cost very little.
While the dryer is apart, is a good time to clear lint from exhaust hood, ducting, fan, fan housing, to prevent recurrence

Sep 08, 2008 | Dryers

1 Answer

CIC60 01 tumble dryer only works if on/off button is held in

is the new on/off switch new or second hand if its new get it exchange cause these switchs have a spring in them with 2 channel cutouts in them once depressed when it starts to come back up it automatically goes into another channel which keeps it on faulty switch thats all it can be if secondhand again take it back cause its faulty this is the only thing it can be they are simply made so they dont mess up try doing it when its not on the washer love peter

Nov 16, 2007 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer not heating up

themal cutouts are just thermostats if u have put power through the casing then it will have blown both stats more than likely u will find these at the back under the heater surround guard

Aug 27, 2007 | Whirlpool LEQ8611L Electric Dryer

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