My lomo will not advance the film after taking a shot
My lomo will not advance the film after the picture is taken. It is not jammed- it seems that the spool to which you attach the film and to which it winds to as you advance the film, will not pull the film forward. It will spin but not move the film. Any thoughts.
Re: My lomo will not advance the film after taking a shot
I fixed this a couple of ways with my own LCA.
One is to stick a piece of paper in between the 2 parts of the tape-up spool (the internal and external parts) to make them a tighter fit.
Also, I often fold the leader of the film back (very close to it's end), and push it inbetween the 2 parts of the take up spool, making sure one sprocket is securely placed into the small tooth/hook on the spool. So, the film is folded around the tooth and towards the back, on the inside of the spool.
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Could be that when the load builds up there is friction to jam the film. You must not take chance with the shot film and so try to click with the cap on the rewound portion and if the film is not advancing then it is possible that the camera must be checked with a dummy film to confirm on why the jamming takes place.It can be also due to failure of the loading mechanism
If you are using 120 film (medium format) you only need to advance the film as far as possible. Then remove the film from the camera and wrap the excess paper around the roll and seal.
When you finish all the pictures on the roll of 35mm film you will need to rewind the film completely before exposing it to light. You can do this by taking the camera in a pitch dark room, removing the film and turning the knob on the top of the film roll until the film has been completely wound back into the the roll.
The magnets that control the shutter are the likely suspect. Dirt and debris can cause them not to hold properly. Hence, it fires the shutter when you advance the film. It is something you can repair yourself. ............or. you can also try....
i'm not an expert on the AE-1. It is a camera I've never had any desire to own. But on most older slr camera the rewind knob will turn when the film is advanced. But only after the slack has been taken out of the film still in the canister. Since you've already taken a few shot the film shot be very secure on the take up spool. To check that it is, slowly crank the film rewind crank clockwise. After a few turns the film should become tight in the canister, and you will feel the tension. If this happens then the film was loaded properly. If after quite a few turns you still feel nothing, then the film was not properly inserted into the take up spoll. If the film was not loaded correctly the film leader will go inside the canister as you crank. But that is not a problem. Any photo lab can pull the leader back out. Just make sure they know what happened.
If your film was TOTALLY blank then it's been bleached due to a processing error. By totally blank, I mean that there are no frame numbers or other film markings on your blank film. Otherwise, you simply have an unexposed film.
First, operate the camera with the camera back open, hold the camera up to a bright light and operate the camera as you look into the back of the lens. If you see a brief bit of light coming through as you operate the shutter then the shutter is admitting light into the camera and so you should have got some kind of an image unless you failed to correctly load the film (very common).
Unfortunately, there's no way to tell unless you try another roll of film. Once the film is loaded, turn the rewind crank gently to take up slack film and take a few pictures; each time you advance the film the rewind crank should turn a little. If it doesn't then the film has not been correctly loaded as the film leader has not engaged onto the take-up spool. If so, open the camera and re-engage the film. If it clearly has engaged, then the take-up spool is failing to rotate when the film is advanced: try taking a few shots and winding on the film with the back open. If the film is not advancing then you have a faulty Lomo. This is extremely common as it is a plastic toy camera with atrocious build quality and materials and is the FishEye is only designed for paltry ten rolls of film lifespan.
A final check for film which has not advanced through the camera is if the rewind is extremely short when the film has finished.
First, are you absolutely sure that you haven't just reached the end of the film roll?
There are no repair manuals for this model. It's designed to last for about 12 rolls of film before it's worn out like other Lomo's in their "toy camera" range.
It's very cheaply designed and constructed and was never intended to be repaired, so if your camera is still under warranty (regardless of how many rolls of film you've shot) then make a claim. The plastic gears inside are like those on all Lomo toy cameras: awful. They may as well have just made them from cheese...
If the gears are not stripped you can try brute force by slapping the camera down onto a hard surface a few times to try and unjam the mechanism, although it risks making the fault worse. But as the camera isn't working what do you have to lose? The same applies to trying to dismantle the camera to find the fault, but you'll have to work out how to do so for yourself. Most current Lomos are simply clipped together with a minimum of screws.
If you're not covered by the warranty and cannot repair yours, then you'll need to consider whether to invest another £40 on a camera which really shouldn't be selling for more than £10 maximum.
Check that you haven't accidentally left the camera set to multiple exposure mode. This is set using the button next to the film advance wheel (marked ME) and is only cancelled when the next photo is taken.
If that doesn't fix it, then your camera is broken and will either need a repair or exchange. Unfortunately it's a VERY common fault with this model (all LOMO's are very poorly made) and unless you can get a free repair under warranty or an exchange/refund then you'll have to carefully take it apart and try to fix it yourself. It's not exactly complicated inside, but it's also not designed to be repaired...
If you successfully repair it, then never use the multiple exposure button again: it's almost designed to fail :-(
I had a similar problem with another brand of this type of camera. I would click the shutter and hear it open but it would not go through the series of four lens exposures unless I manually turned the film advance wheel . I think it may be because the motor isn't strong enough to draw the film across and trigger the shots. cheap plastic, ya know. I never got the film developed but im interested to see if it got anything at all.
well i get whats the problem,,, the film is jaming your camera you realy need to pull the film out the only way to do this is to life the center crank handel and turn it and hope it strips the little frame drive holes in the film first before the camera strips?
the problem is caused by the film jamming in the case if you have fully wound it on that is???whate ever that film has got to come out first to get your camera working again ,,,,good luck
Pulling the string doesn't take the picture, it advances the film. Press the button on top of the camera, you'll hear the shutters go, and then pull the string. Just make sure the film is taut when you load it, and that you're not yanking on the advance string too hard.