Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

My GE Profile side by side PSC25PSTA freezer is not cold at the top the ice cubes start melting but freezer is cold on the bottom part.I put freezer in the auto defrost mode, that seamed to work better for about half a day, then it was warm up top again.

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  • 1584 Nov 14, 2009

    The evap. coil is iced up, the fridge will defrost when put into self test defrost mode 1 - 4, When i put the fridge in the diagnostic mode 1 -1 the fan test i can hear the two fans in the fresh food compartment run for 10 seconds each but the evap. fan does not come on. It does run at a slow speed when unit is put into defrost mode. Should the evap. fan come on in the fan test? Does the fan have different speeds?

  • 1584 Nov 14, 2009

    The evap. coil is iced up, the fridge will defrost when put into self test defrost mode 1 - 4, When i put the fridge in the diagnostic mode 1 -1 the fan test i can hear the two fans in the fresh food compartment run for 10 seconds each but the evap. fan does not come on. It does run at a slow speed when unit is put into defrost mode. Should the evap. fan come on in the fan test? Does the fan have different speeds?

  • 1584 Nov 14, 2009

    I have cleaned the condenser coil, defrosted the evaporator, all fans are working. I have 13.4 volts at pins #3 #8 on J2 connector. When i run diagnostic test 1-1 to run the fans should the evap. fan run because it does not.

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2 Answers

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Hi,

There might be many reasons. Check the rear of the Freezer. Do you see any Ice formation there?

If yes, take a blower and melt it. It would fix the problem. Make sure all the fans are working.Next step would be to clean the coils at the back of the refrigerator with the help of the vacuum. I am positive, it would fix the issue.

If problem persists, then we need to test some components.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on Nov 14, 2009

  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Nov 14, 2009

    Thanks for your response!!


    yes, it should run. Check the below Guide :-

    http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance...

    You need to check all the components mentioned here to fix this.

    Let me know, if needed further assistance.

    Hope i helped you.

    Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

    Note - Do accept the solution, if 100% satisfied from my service!!

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  • Master
  • 1,462 Answers

Hi,

Here is the solution for your issue:

A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

  • Evaporator coil
  • Condensor
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coil:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
  • The defrost timer
  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
  • The defrost heater
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condensor: Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.


Please leave me comment, if you need further assistance
Thanks for using FixYa!
Rnj VINODKUMAR

Posted on Nov 14, 2009

  • Vinod Kumar
    Vinod Kumar Nov 14, 2009

    Yes the evaporator fan should come up when you put it in the test mode..



    Since you have ice build up in the coil, the colling is poor, try claning the fan..



    The fan doesnt operate at different speed it operates at single speed..

  • Vinod Kumar
    Vinod Kumar Nov 14, 2009

    Yes the evaporator fan should come up when you put it in the test mode..

    Since you have ice build up in the coil, the colling is poor, try claning the fan..

    The fan doesnt operate at different speed it operates at single speed



    This is the solution for your issue



    Please accept this solution, if you find this as useful...

    Thanks

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GE GSS25KGSA.... the freezer is no longer freezing regardless of temperature setting. It gets cold but no freezing. There used to be more noise during cycles, but that has stopped also.


The fan that circulates air in the freezer compartment is frozen & not circulating air - resulting in a freezer compartment that is cool but not cold. The reason is that the “heater & bracket” that warms & defrosts the evaporator coil & the fan above it has died & w/no defrosting, the coil & the fan load up with frost & ice & stop working.

Temporary Solution:
1) Unplug the frig.

2) Take all the food & shelves out of the freezer. Put it ALL in one cardboard box; this will keep it from defrosting while you get the freezer working.
3) Take out the ice maker storage bin (the thing that's full of ice cubes) & dump the ice cubes. (if you leave them in the freezer, they will melt & refreeze & make a disaster).
4) There is a metal panel below the lights & it should have frost & ice built on it.
5) Get two (not one) hair driers, set them on high heat & melt all the frost & ice & keep on melting & defrosting for about 10 minutes.
4) Plug the frig back in.
5) The freezer fan should be turning.

6) Put the shelf & food back in & close the door.
7) Expect this problem to reoccur in one to four months...


Solution:
1) Get a “heater & bracket” GE part number WR51X10055, about $30 w/shipping on eBay. This is for a GSS25KGSA GE side by side (the last two letters WW, BB, & CC are colors). If you have a different GE side by side, the correct part number can easily be found at www.searspartsdirect.com. Nice drawings.
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3) Take all the food & shelves out of the freezer. Put it ALL in one cardboard box; this will keep it from defrosting while you get the freezer working.
4) Take out the ice maker storage bin (the thing that's full of ice cubes) & dump the ice cubes.
5) Take out the light cover. One Philips screw on top & two press-to-release plastic things on the bottom.
6) Unscrew the light bulbs.
7) Take out the metal panel below the lights. Four ¼” screws. It is held in by two tabs at the top, so swing the bottom out & pull it down. Be careful not to bend it.
8) Get two (not one) hair driers, set them on high hot & melt all the frost & ice on the evaporator coil. Do NOT touch it.
9) Remove the “Heater & Bracket” by unscrewing the two Phillips screws and then unplugging the red & blue wires.
10) Install the new “Heater & Bracket” by plugging in the red & blue wires & replacing the two screws. Be careful not to get it backwards when plugging the wires; only goes one way.

11) Put the back panel back in & secure it with the 4 ¼” screws.
12) Reinstall the lights & cover.

13) Plug the frig back in.
14) Put the shelves & food back in & close the door.
15) Expect this problem to reoccur every 3-4 years; great designs fail after the warranty is up, and keep the repairmen & parts people employed …

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