Question about Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer
I have a Kenmore top loading washer model # 110.23912100. Originally the washer wasn't going into a spin cycle and would not get all the water out. I replaced the lid switch, but now it won't get all the water out unless I put it into a 2nd rinse. It will fill up with water and just sit there and not agitate. Then it will drain and go into spin cycle and rinse. Why isn't the water being drain on the first rinse and the agitator not working? During the agitator cycle there is complete silence.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer.
Also see the Whirlpool (Kenmore) Service Manual for top load, direct drive washers.
The first thing I'd try is using a different cycle. If the washer works as it should, the problem points to the timer.
I'd also check to make sure that when replacing the switch, the connections to the timer haven't come loose.
Since you've replaced the Lid Switch, the motor has power for the drain and spin cycles.
These washers use a reversing motor. The motor turns one way for agitating and reverses for the drain and spin.
Since you cannot hear anything when it is supposed to be agitating, the problem does point to the timer or motor.
Posted on Nov 14, 2009
Testimonial: "that does make sense. I'll try it out on a different cycle. The timer is going through its motions but I'll double check for any loose connections. "
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem initially points the Timer, or the Lid Switch.
Since you've already replaced both, the problem points to the "Neutral Drain Assembly" in the transmission,
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Following is the Whirlpool parts PDF for their commercial version washers although the consumer models use the same transmission parts.
With ours,we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on Nov 10, 2009
Check your lid switch. The symptoms of your washer stopping at the rinse cycle is a commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between these sites, so shop and compare. If you still have questions, please let me know. If the suggestions I have listed do not match your washer symptoms, please post back and elaborate more on what the washer is/is not doing so I can provide you with better assistance. Please include your model number if different from the one listed. I hope this information is helpful to you.
NOTE: "110" is not the model number. This is the prefix on the model number that identifies the manufacturer of your washer. 110 indicates the washer was manufactured by Whirlpool.
Posted on Nov 26, 2009
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
If you look at the section on the agitator, you should see a Plastic bolt that holds the agitators on
Also see the following for how to replace the Agitator Dogs, It has a good description of how to pull the top agitator.
Posted on Jul 07, 2010
OL error means the Motor Controller has sensed an Overload.
The oL code means the motor control board is struggling to power the motor up. If it recurs after removing some clothes - usually this means a new motor control.... or worse - a new bearing.
If it were a problem with the tub floating up, the unit would spin instead of nutate.
Bearing failure in this machine is very common.
I suspect the drive shaft and bearing are the problem. The bearing and shaft are part of the outer tub.
The new outer tub with bearing W10128830 cost approximately $197 dollars.
If you can get access to the shaft it may be an Emory cloth will help smooth things down so that you no longer get the OL code.
This is an ambitious do-it-yourself project... as most appliance repairmen don't understand how this machine operates.
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Posted on Sep 14, 2010
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
There is likely to be a problem with either the lid solenoid/lock or the 'lid closed' sensor requiring a service engineer's attention I suggest. Sorry ;-0(
If this has assisted and/or clarified the situation for you please consider a 4 thumbs up on our rating.
Thanks and good luck!
Posted on Jun 28, 2011
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