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Heat pump goes str8 to heating strips compressor does not run in heat mode pump was manufactured in 03 installed in 07 and has sat dormant till now could it be wired wrong it is a ruud split unit with digital non-programable 2-stage heat and cool t-stat

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I think that you have the right idea. The wiring is probably wrong. If you can trace the low voltage wires to the air handler. make sure that the Y1 wire on the t-stat is going to Y1 on the hair handler and then to the condenser. The Y2 wire should be going to Y2 on the air handler and probably does not continue out to the condenser. The Y2 should be going to the contacor that brings on your backup heat. It seems like Y1 and Y2 are reversed somewhere.

Posted on Nov 14, 2009

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Heat pump compressor wont come on in heat mode, works fine in cool mode, we get heat occaisionally for about 2 min, then the compressor shuts off. it is a fridgedaire window unit.


Try setting the thermostat at a normal heat setting. By raising the temperature too high the unit thinks that the heat pump won't be effective and go into strip heat mode.

Nov 17, 2013 | Frigidaire Energy Star Room Air...

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Thermostat wiring terminals and colors


R - The R terminal is the power for the thermostat. This comes from the transformer usually located in the blower section for split systems but you may find the transformer in the condensing unit. For this reason, it is a good idea to kill the power at the condensing unit and the blower section before changing or working on the wiring at the thermostat. If you have a package unit then the transformer is in the package unit.
Red for the R terminal.

RC - The RC terminal is designated for the power for cooling. Some HVAC systems use two transformers. A transformer for cooling and a transformer for heating. In this case the power from the transformer in the blower section would go to the thermostat terminal. It should be noted that a jumper can be installed between RC and RH for a heating and cooling system equipped with a single transformer.
Red for RC terminal.

RH - The RH terminal is designated for the power for heating. See RC above for an explanation. It should be noted that a jumper can be installed between RC and RH for a heating and cooling system equipped with a single transformer.

Y - This is the terminal for cooling or air conditioning and goes to the compressor relay. Typically a thermostat wire pull is made to the air handler on split systems and then this wire is spliced for the separate wire pull which is made to the condenser. Some manufacturers put a terminal board strip near the control board in the air handler so a splice is not needed.
Yellow for Y Terminal.

Y2 - This is the thermostat terminal for cooling second stage if your system is so equipped. Many systems only have a single compressor but if you have two compressors which should only operate off of one thermostat then you need the Y2 thermostat terminal for second stage cooling.
*The most common color I've seen used for this terminal and wire designation is light blue but this varies and is completely up to the installer what color to use. Most installers use the color coding as noted but be aware that some do not use the thermostat color coding.

W - This is the thermostat terminal for heating. This wire should go directly to the heating source whether it be a gas or oil furnace, electric furnace, or boiler,
White for W Terminal.

W2 - This is the thermostat terminal used for second stage heat. There are gas furnaces with low fire and high fire and some depend on control from a two-stage heating thermostat with a W2 terminal. Heat Pumps use staging for auxiliary heat and need a W2 terminal.
*The most common color I've seen used for this terminal and wire designation is brown but this varies and is completely up to the installer what color to use.

G - This is the thermostat terminal used for the fan relay to energize the indoor blower fan. On a split system the blower fan is in the blower section while with a package unit the blower fan is in the outdoor package unit.

Green for G Terminal.

C - This is the thermostat terminal which originates from the transformer and is necessary to complete the 24 volts power circuit in the thermostat but only if the thermostat consumes electricity for power. Many digital thermostats require 24 volts for power so the common wire is necessary.
C stands for common and there is no universal color used for this terminal although black is the most common color I've seen.

O or B - These thermostat terminals are for heat pumps and the B thermostat terminal is used on for Rheem or Ruud and any manufacturer that energizes the reversing valve in heating mode for the heat pump. Most other manufacturers of heat pumps will utilize the reversing valve for cooling and the O thermostat terminal will be utilized for this purpose. This wire goes to outside heat pump condenser where the reversing valve is located.

Orange for O and Dark Blue for B depending on the installer of the heat pump and the manufacturer. If you have a Trane, Carrier, Goodman, Lennox, Ducane, Heil, Fedders, Amana, Janitrol, or any other manufacturer other than Rheem or Ruud you will be utilizing the orange wire for reversing valve. Rheem and Ruud will usually utilize the blue wire for reversing valve.

E - This thermostat terminal is for heat pumps and stands for Emergency Heating. If for whatever reason the heat pump condenser fails and it is necessary to run the heat there is an option on heat pump thermostats for emergency heating. Basically this simply utilizes the back-up heat source many heat pumps have to heat the home without sending a signal to the condenser to run for heat.

E - There is no universal color used for this thermostat terminal designation but this should be wired directly to the heating relay or the E terminal on a terminal strip board in the air handler or package unit if you have a heat pump package unit.

X or Aux - This thermostat terminal is for back-up on a heat pump and allows for auxiliary heating from the back-up heat source usually located in the air handler.

X or Aux - There is no universal color used for this thermostat terminal designation but this should be wired directly to the heating relay or the Aux terminal on a terminal strip board in the air handler or package unit if you have a heat pump package unit.

S1 & S2 or Outdoor 1 and Outdoor 2 - Some thermostats have this terminal and it used for an outdoor temperature sensor. The wire uses for this should be special shielded wire and completely separate form the other thermostat wires.







on Jun 06, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Had 16 xi Trane heat pump installed 3 years ago. It ran well for the first couple of years. It began to stop heating and would blow cold air only. Have tried both aux heat and reg. heat to run and neither...


That's a complicated system that needs a qualified technician to service it. Lots of people can install them and they run fine, for a few years. Your indoor unit, operating on 2 heat elements, will feel like its blowing cold air even though its heating, just not so well. And not like you are accustomed to. Each element (5kw)=22.7amps, on average. So 3 elements operating should trip a breaker. Its probably been operating on 2 heat element plus the heat pump. And now you have trouble with the heat pump. If you can't TRUST the guys working on your equipment, try someone else. A second opinion. Normally a 3 or 4 ton unit will have 15kw heat installed, heatpump or not. 5 ton, 20kw. If yours is a 3-4ton, cooling, the 100amp(or normally two 60 amp) breaker should have been installed upon equipment change out. If yours is blowing cold all the time, something is wrong with your heatpump. The electric heat inside operates only when the heatpump can't keep up(real cold outside), the heatpump is in defrost(then it's actually in cooling mode), or if you have the tstat in aux/em. heat. Try a local trane dealer? Of a technician with 15-20 yrs under their belt. A trane dealer should have trane tech support also. BIG HELP!!!

Mar 01, 2017 | Haier Energy Star ESA3183 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Heat Pump Blowing Cold


Unless you just installed or had the thermostat installed recently, I would not point at the thermostat as the problem. With what you have described I would suggest have your units serviced as it sounds like a loss of charge, or failed defrost control board. The "Aux" comes on when the unit is using secondary heating (electric heat strips). That occurs when the demand temperature (what you set it to) in Heat mode is more than the current room temperature, usually ~2-4 degrees higher. Also happens in defrost mode. Defrost is a heat pump cycle that melts any build up of ice on the condenser unit (outside unit). That process is simply the unit running in cool mode which will heat up the outside unit to melt any ice. Defrost cycles vary with manufacture but usually you can tell if is in defrost by looking at the outside unit, during defrost the unit will be warm or hot sometimes there is steam and the compressor will be running but not the fan. Defrost only happens on heat pumps in "Heat" mode. Rheem has a 10 yr compressor and parts warranty, so call the installer or Rheem authorized service company.

Nov 11, 2013 | Honeywell RTH7600D Touchscreen 7-Day...

2 Answers

I have a Rheem heat pump/air handler; it draws 2.9amps with only the fan running, 13amps when the heat pump is running and 38amps with the heat strips on. My question is why the unit draws that many amps...


Sounds like it must be about a 2.5- 3 ton system. The 13amps has to be the compressor draw -normal. and 38 on the strips- normal. 2.9 fan -normal.

You may want to check your wiring to see where the outside unit gets its power. Theres nothing inside that can draw 13 amps. That almost has to be the compressor power wire.

Jan 27, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

''EMI'' heat w/ac acts weird.


Hi, what you have here is a ductless heat-pump split system. In the heat mode the compressor will run on a heat pump as it uses a reversing valve to reverse the flow of freon to heat your house. If it gets cold enough, the stat will call for the emergency heat strips to energize to come on for back up. Now, if the unit does not come on or go off when the thermostat calls for either heat or cool to come on and it just does it whenever it wants to, the stat will have to be replaced with a new one. If you plan on doing this your self, I would get the exact same heat-pump stat as you have because they make so many different models that the wiring may be much different and you will be lost when you go to wire it up. The heat - pump has many more control wires on them then the conventional heat/ac unit. So make it easy on your self and get the same one. They are easy to replace. If it is ignoring the settings its the stat. Heat strips and compressor running in the heat position together are normal for a heat- pump.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Mar 17, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

How can we tell if our dometic rooftop air conditioner/furnace has a heat strip or not.


Hi; If You have a heat pump then yes on heat strips. Does Your RV have a gas heater. If You gently remove the cover some times You can see the heat coils in the metal air flow tube...Also does the compressor run in heat mode ,if not then best guess You have heat strip capability...alpharome416

Feb 22, 2010 | Dometic Rooftop RV Air Conditioner

1 Answer

I have a westinghouse window unit and I think it has heat strips for the heat. How do I tell if it is a true heat pump or if it has heat strips and how do I get to the Heat strips in the unit to check.


If it is a heat pump, the compressor will be running both in cool mode and in normal heat mode.

Confirm the current indoor temperature. Turn the thermostat up one degree at a time until it comes on. This will typically be 1 to 4 degrees increase. As soon as it comes on stop increasing the temp.

If the compressor is running, it is a heat pump.

Check the temperature coming our of the vents at that time. You should have 30 to 60 degrees increase from the air temp going into the unit and the conditioned air temp coming out.

Then turn the T-stat up another 10 degrees. If the temp coming out of the vents increases by 20 degrees or more. the strips are on.

The strips operate in three situations.
1) the system is set to emergency heat
2) The heat pump cannot keep up with the demand for heat. (because its too cold outside, the desired temp setting is greater than 4 to 8 degrees above the room temp, or the HP is malfunctioning.)
3) The HP is in defrost mode

You could also take the panels off the unit and look for a reversing valve, but unless you know what you are looking for you will not recognise it.

Oct 12, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Will not heat below 40


2nd stage heat should kick in on auto defrost ,sounds like bad sequencer or relay

Jan 27, 2009 | Intertherm P3RA-036K Air Conditioner

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