Question about Williams 2509612 Ceramic Mid-Size Heater

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The thermostat wire is loose.

After the rain, the pilot went out. I opened the door and saw that the thermostat wire is loose but I don't know where this should be connected. I had someone light the pilot for me but now I can't control it. Is there some kind of picture you can show me as to where the cable goes?

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I don't have a picture, but I can help you if you have a gas valve that has 3 wire connection posts labeled TH, TP and one will have both TH and TP. If so let me know.

Posted on Jan 09, 2008


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Empire dv-25. Pilot lights fine, good blue flame. Burner rail won't light or stay lit - sometimes it starts to catch. Orifice was removed and was clean - no debris. Not sure where to look next? T.Y.

Do you have an electrical meter that measures millivolts?This sounds like a millivolt system. The pilot orfice and pilot burner need to be clean so they are producing a hot flame, hitting the pilot generator to create enough millivoltage to open the main valve coil. If you know how to jumper the thermostat circuit try it, Millivolt systems will give you problems if there are loose connections or to much resistance through a switch. Again, there could be some type of safety switch that is wired into the thermostat circuit to prevent the heater from coming on if it isn't safe. Call a pro if its not obvious

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I have an imperial fryer. Pilot is on but main burners don't ignite. Pilot looks normal & thermostat clicks when turned

Number 5 is your thermopile/pilot generator. It is a pilot generator that does 2 things. It holds open the valve with a safety magnet and it operates the safety valve solenoid whenever the control stat calls for heat. Overtime they get weak and will hold the pilot but not operate the valve solenoid. I would replace that pilot generator.thermopile and party on!

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1 Answer

The pilot is on,, but gets no heat

Well she oughta light off with the green knob turned up all the way.
This valve has a temp control mounted in it. Once the pilot is lit you move the
knob to ON and if it is cold in the room she oughta fire off. If it don't then the valve needs to be replaced. If yours works on 24 volts and you have the knob on the on position and the thermostat is on and the transformer is working then the valve oughta fire off. If it don't then the solenoid is bad and the valve needs replacing. IF you have a pilot generator then your gas valve solenoid work off of voltage being produced by the generator. That type system is very simple. a 2 wire thermostat on the wall makes the circuit and the generator powers the whole she-bang. If the solenoid is open on the valve OR if the thermopile / pilot generator is weak then when the themostat comes on the pilot simply goes out. Let me know you need further assistance.

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Pilot is lit,but heater will not turn on. was working fine yesterday.

this heater runs on 750 milivolts. it is created by the pilot lite. the heat for the flame on the pilot generator makes it all happen. the pilot should be covering the generator 3/8 to 1/2" from the top. the generator is about as big as you small finger. it has the wire going to it next to the pilot gas . a dirty or loose connection will keep it from working also. it connects to the gas valve with a red and white wire.turn your t stat as low as it will go and take a wire,paper clip?, and cross the red to the 3rd screw with out the white wire this should make the burner come on,bypassing the thermostat.if that works clean the wire connection at t stat

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I have a 3 burner pitco gas friolator and dont know how to light the pilot any suggestions

First, never light when the pot is empty, you can fill with water if you have no oil. Open the door, check the thermostat and make sure it is turned off.(The burners will light if thermostat is on) Behind the thermostat you will see the gas valve. Turn knob to off, then to pilot. There is a notch at the pilot position. Now look up in the middle behind the burners and you will see the pilot assembly. Push in on the knob on the gas valve while you hold a long lighter close to the pilot assembly. Once the pilot lights keep holding the pilot knob in for 20 seconds. Now let off the pilot knob. Pilot should stay burning. Now turn the gas valve from pilot to on. Now turn the thermostat to desired temp and the burners will fire off and start heating.

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Try to clean the pilot orfice,ive seen even though the pilot stays lit it doesnt have enough millivolts to energize the gas valve.Did you check the wiring really good?

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1 Answer

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Sounds like one of your limit switches lost it's wire. Look for a disc like device no more bigger then a 50 piece. You will see two wires going to that and if the wire broke take off the insulation and install new plastic sheath and re-attach. Let me know it that is helpful. ken

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GE Model JES1136WK 01

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

The TCOs you need to be concerned usually with have black wires. You can ignore the ones with blue / violet wires in this case.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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