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I'm getting a build up of ice and frost on the back wall of the freezer unit of my Liebherr CS 1350 refrigerator. I turned the unit off and defrosted it 2 months ago and now have the same problem again. The frost build-up stops the icemaker from working. The unit is supposed to be frost-free. It's 3-years-old. thanks for your help! ptintime@gmail.com

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Your defrost heater or defrost thermostat needs to be replaced.

Posted on Nov 14, 2009

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My fridge keep freezing every thing


If it were the freezer area and you had frost on the rear wall of the freezer I would say that your unit has a defrost issue. The freezer is the only area that produces cold there is an evaporator fan that blows the cold air through a diffuser or damper door located in the rear of your refrigerator. If the damper door is not closeing then your refrigerator side of the unit due to the door not being able to close would start to freeze items inside of it. Remove the diffuser door and assure that there is no frost blocking the fins or the door (some have fins that open and close others have a door ) do not have any frost build up or ice build up as well. Also assure that the door is able to open and close. If the door has ice, frost, or you are not able to open and close the door you would replace the diffuser door in the unit. If the door has no ice and opens and closes properly then you would look at the thermostat for the refrigerator which is located usually in the ceiling and is attached to the knob that you would use to make the tempreture on the refrigerator side colder. If you have any further questions message me back. Please also remember when our chat has fully concluded to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation it allows me to continue helping others in similar situations in the future. If you need a schematic of your unit message me back the make and the model number. Thanks again
Rick

Sep 17, 2011 | Liebherr Refrigerators

1 Answer

My 13 y ear old Lieherr in France has Snowy Frost buildup on the back top half of the interior wall, but the temperature in the fridge even at 7 is only 10 degrees C and will not get colder. The freezer...


Hello and Welcome to FixYa!
Since you have quoted that you have already vacuumed the condenser unit from the back and had already removed all dust & lint from the condenser unit so that possibility should be ruled out. The Poor cooling that you are facing could also be (In fact the most common reason) due to the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing/opening the panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer that is exactly the thing you quoted. Such a frost build-up usually shows a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed/designed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (usually a bi-metallic switch) The defrost heater If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. If the problem still persists and the above quoted techniques/tips didn't work,You may need a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem.

Best of Luck,

Please do Rate the solution, if you feel that this helps you,

Concerned.

Aug 10, 2010 | Liebherr European Right Hinge Fully...

1 Answer

Alarm won't stop beeping


Door left open or temp is too warm. most I found is heavy ice build up on freezer evaporator, very easy to tell, pull out one of the drawer and look on the back wall, it should not have any ice on it (a little frost is OK). It may be bad Evaporator sensor, Evaporator fan motor is not running, door evaporator fan reed switch installed upside down,bad connection on defrost heater connector, bad defrost heater element, open heater HI limit switch, open gap on door gasket and compressor never stop running. If no ice build up and compressor is running but temp is rising then it may be sealed system problem. Good Luck.

Mar 01, 2010 | Liebherr Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer builds up frost and ice too quickly.


Either the door gasket is not sealing well or the unit is low in refrigerant.

Sep 24, 2009 | Freezers

1 Answer

The freezer has water and ice leaking in the


Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

Sep 07, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Automatic defrost no longer works


If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow.
You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model

Aug 19, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

The refrigerators accumulate ice


the fridge distrubutes cold by air movement. A overstuffed fridge can have trouble. There is a fan that blows a controlled amount of freezer air over to the food side, altho when this goes you usually have frozen freezer and food too warm. Make sure the air is allowed to move.

Nov 29, 2007 | Liebherr Premium CTP 3153 Top Freezer...

1 Answer

Refrigerator


If the ice build up is only on the back panel of the freezer then you have a defrost problem. Most likely a defrost thermostat or control board/timer. If frost build up is around the walls of the freezer then warm air is getting into the freezer. Most likely cause of this would be gaps in or torn door gasket or door alignment. In some cases the door was left cracked open. If gasket and door alignment is ok remove the frost and see if it comes back.

Oct 05, 2007 | Jenn-Air JBR2088HES Stainless Steel Bottom...

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