Long story, short version. New 16 top line camera system. Monitors in office and apartment in seperate building. All components and wires are new. When running appliances or even turning light switches on and off, there's a direct effect on the security system. The monitors get distorted on 4 of the 16 cameras (although it can effect all 16 and the full screen when isolating single camera. Thr guy has tried filters and other gizmos but he can't isolate the problem. Any suggestions or checklists would be greatly appreciated. THANKS A BUNCH ! [email protected]

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These are the possible issues with the unit, based on the code list and description

Check that the gas is turned on at the water heater and gas meter. Check for obstructions in the flue outlet.
Ensure gas line, meter, and/or regulator is sized properly.
Ensure gas type and pressure is correct.
Bleed all air from gas lines.
Ensure proper Rinnai venting material was installed.
Ensure condensation collar was installed properly.
Ensure vent length is within limits.
Verify dip switches are set properly.
Ensure appliance is properly grounded.
Disconnect keypad.
Disconnect EZConnect™ or MSA controls to isolate the problem.
Check power supply for loose connections.
Check power supply for proper voltage and voltage drops.
Ensure flame rod wire is connected.
Check flame rod for carbon build-up.
Disconnect and re-connect all wiring harnesses on unit and PC board.
Check for DC shorts at components.
Check gas solenoid valves for open or short circuits.
Remove burner plate and inspect burner surface for condensation or debris.

Clean inlet water supply filter.
On new installations ensure hot and cold water lines are not reversed.
Check for bleed over. Isolate unit from building by turning off hot water line to building.
Isolate the circulating system if present. Open your pressure relief valve; if unit fires, there is bleed over in your plumbing.
Ensure you have at least the minimum flow rate required to fire unit.
Ensure turbine spins freely.
Measure the resistance of the water flow control sensor.
Check for DC shorts at components

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This was a rather simple fix. When I was speaking about the NBX V3000, I was talking about our 2U NBX Chassis which holds the line card. When our phone system was installed I wasn't shown the 1U NBX V3000 "Brain". I thought everything was contained in the chassis. Long story, short, I restarted the 1U "Brain" and the system came back up with 5 minutes.

No MS Excel is a part of the MS Office suite and comes seperately from some computers. Some brand new computers may come with a trial of the office suite, but not all computers come with office on it.

TAKE APART TSTAT IF U HAV ALL WIRES SEPERATED AND IT STILL RUNS ITS NOT THE STAT THEN U TAKE APART STAT WIRES AT UNIT IF THAT SOLVES IT THEN UR HOT AND HEAT STAT WIRE ARE SHORTING TOGETHER AND U NEED TO PULL NEW WIRE IF IT STILL RUNS WHEN WIRES ARE PULLED ATN UNET THEN U MIGHT HAV A BAD VALVE HOPE THIS HELPS U

You need a new screen or a new tape led in your camera if you know how to take apart camera do not take apart with out soldeirng iron or soldering equipment and proper wire and wire strippers, and if you have tiny fingers you can do it, start by unscrewing the screws carefully placing them in acontainer and remocing he screen by removing screws very carefully as not to seperate the wires, and order a new screen from a camera shop or the company you bought the camera from.

 there are 3 components in the defrost system that can go bad. timer, defrost thermostat, and defrost heater. since youve already replaced timer that means youve eliminated it as a bad component. the most common defrost system failure is actually the defrost thermostat. moisture will infiltrat into the control and ause it to short out. the way to check it is:

• unload freezer section
• remove shelving
• remove icemaker if applicable
• remove rear access cover
• once coil is exposed look for a round disc shaped peice that is attached to the top of the coil and has 2 wires going to it
• hopefuly the control will still be frozen
• using a multimeter set to ohms sheck for continuity on the 2 wires that go to control
• if the control has continuity then you have a bad heater if no cont then bad defrost sensor
• in alot of cases you will actually see that the control has seperated and come apart and you will not even need a meter.

I hope this helps you out. while you have unit pulled apart and after youv'e diagnosed the problem use a hair dryer to defrost ice build up on the coil. this will get the unit working temporarily until you get a replacement part.  thanks Peyton

did you reset the setting in your xmb on your ps3 from hdmi to a/v cables?

ok, the manifold comes off with eight bolts, four on top and four on the bottom. they are 9/16 head bolts so use a 9/16 short socket for the bottom, you will need a 3/8 extension for the top bolts about six inches long and make sure you remove all vacuum lines, fuel lines and take the exhaust pipe apart. the manifold should pull out after that. i recommend you take the bottom bolts out first as they are the hardest to get to.

sincerly,
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