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Re: On my 106.55244400 refrigerator, does the cord to
If you remove the 3 screws holding the ice maker to the wall , and you do not see a plug at the rear , then unplug the refrig . Remove the ice maker cover ( it just snaps off ) . Where the line connects to on the ice maker , you will see a small square hole with a " flap " which has to be depressed , and the wiring will slide out , after unclipping the black fuse piece , from the mold .
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Unplug refrigerator. Take a moment to examine how the icemaker is positioned in the freezer compartment prior to proceeding (e.g.: water inlet tubing coming into the icemaker, etc.). Remove or loosen (where applicalble) screws holding icemaker. Unplug icemaker's wire harness connection. install new icemaker by reversing the screws harness, etc. Make certain that the new icemaker is in the "on" position. Plug the refrigerator in. Allow approximately 6 to 8 hours (some models take fewer or longer timeframe) for ice production.
Hi andy and wlecome to Fixya. There is usually a semi white plastic line that runs up the back of your refrigerator. Here are some steps you can do to verify that the water valve is actually working
You will need an old power cord or cheap extension cord with 2 female bayonet terminals on it. (Make one if you have to.)
1. Unplug the unit.
2. gain access to the water valve and disconnect the wire terminals 2 ea from the solenoid.
3. Connect the cord you made to the solenoid making sure that the 2 terminal connections will not come off or touch together.
4. Get a bucket and gently pull the plastic line from the bulkhead connector in the upper area of the back of your unit and place it in a bucket.
5. Plug the cord into the wall outlet and HOPE that water flows into the bucket.
If the water does NOT flow then the water valve is clogged and will need cleaned or replaced. Many of these water valves have a hose type inlet connector fitting from the water SOURCE. Before attempting to remove any water lines turn the water source OFF. That fitting can be removed and you can check for a clogged screen.
Just remember to remove your test cord and re-connect the chassis harness to the solenoid when your done. Also put the plastic line on the back of the unit back into the bulkhead connector.
If you have water flow thru the line then the bulkhead connector fitting to the icemaker is froze up and you can thaw that out with a hair dryer (quickly) or a fan (Slower) with the unit unplugged.
This should give you some direction on what to do. Best of luck!
If you are sure that it's coming from the ice maker I believe that you possibly have a leaking water control valve on the side for the ice maker on the rear of refrigerator near floor there is a dual water valve control. Many times when this happens the water will freeze in the fill tube that fills the ice maker in the rear of freezer. You can defrost the frozen water in the fill tube with a hair dryer but that will not stop the problem from coming back. When that happens water tends to at times go everywhere but the ice maker. You can test the water control valve several ways. By unplugging the side to the ice maker and if water continues to flow slowly to the ice maker then the dual water control valve will need replaced, Sea Breeze
Please keep in mind that I am attempting to diagnose this problem without being there and with limited information.
Make sure you water supply to the back of the fridge is on, that someone didn't turn if off for you by mistake. Ok, now. There could be a few different things causing this. First make sure the wire arm shutoff is in the down position. If so, check the inside temp of your freezer, make sure it is zero degrees or below. Now if these all check out good. If I had to guess, I would say that your water valve is bad. I suggest that you test it if you are able to.
I'll try to walk you through how to do it.
You will need what I call a cheater cord. This is a cord that I can plug into the wall on one end and the other end has alligator clips. Now pull fridge out from the wall. Find the water valve where the water supply connects to the back of your fridge. Unplug the wires from the valve and take both water lines off the fridge side of the valve. This will leave only the water line supplying the valve from the house water. Notice when you unplug the wires, there are two sides to the valve. Each having it's on two wire connections. Now with your cheater cord unplugged, clip the alligator clips to one side of the water valves. Then while watching the valve, quickly plug and un-plug the cord. Notice if water came out. Now do the other side of the water valve. Did the water come out. If it came out of only one side, you have a bad valve. If it came out of both sides, then you have a bad part inside your ice maker.
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Samsung Fridge RS2545SH stopped cooling. The fridge section is about 50/55 and freezer is around 45. It wont go below. At one point, there was rumbling rattling sound from the compressor. Icemaker also stopped woprking.
generally its very easy. for your model it looks like the icemaker goes across the rear of the freezer section. if you will look on the left hand wall on the icemaker you will see a philips head screw remove this screw and pull the icemaker towards you and it will come out then unplug the wiring harness (this is probably the hardest part) there are 2 clips that keep the harness connected securley and you sometimes have to use a small blade screw driver to release them. onec icemaker is removed you have to remove the fill cup and the end stop off of the icemaker and reinstall on the new icemaker. one done just reinstall and turn it on. youre done!! BTW the new icemaker mostlikely will not have the green light the old one did so dont think youve got the wrong icemaker.. let me know if you need any further help Thanks Peyton
you p robably have a frozen fill tube for the icemaker. coming inot the rear is a tube for dispensing water into the icemaker. check this for ice if it is frozen you can thaw it out by using a blow dryer to melt theice out. on some models this tube comes thru the back wall of the freezer for cross the freezer icemakers there is a black tube that comes out of the ceiling. if you have any questions please post here and I'll get back to ya thanks Peyton
the fuse for the i/m is actually in the wiring harness that plugs into the icemaker. if the model is correct the icemaker goes across the back of the freezer. when you installed the icemaker on one of the wires (i think red wire) there is a black "pill" looking thing. this is the fuse.
there is 1 screw on the back right hand corner of the icemaker remove this screw then remove the wiring cover that this screw held in place. the icemaker will then slide straight out you will then unplug the icemaker at the wiring harness and be able to completely remove icemaker. thanks for using
Icemaker must be at 28 degrees to make ice. The harness supplying the power should have 120 volts there at all times, and the icemaker itself is the device that switches the power off and on once all requirements are met. Your diagram for the fridge is on the rear service panel, or in a packet on the insisde rear..accordianman