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Where is this Hi-limit switch located on this oven!!!!!!Maytag MER5755QAS

Can someone please tell me where to find the Hi-Limit switch on this oven? We have replaced the element and checked the oven sensor which seems to have power. I really believe it is this switch but I follow the wiring diagram and see nothing!!

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 833 Answers

SOURCE: SMEG CC92MFX5 STAINLESS STEEL SIDE BY SIDE OVEN

Two things sharyn, first check the breakers. It is possible that one of two that control the stove tripped...they are in tandem. Shut them off and back on. If no fix: You'll have to remove and test the element. (if more than one element is involved here...it might be the thermostat) Breakers off, pull the element out and have someone take an ohm meter and test the unit. Still no good? Then it will be the thermostat or relay. Let me know what you find.

Posted on Dec 07, 2007

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Dacor Oven

Depending on your model it is usually at the top behind the "grill" of the oven that is not working. Take out the screws aournd the oven latch (usually for cleaning) and slide out the grill. The limit switch is either over the latch or to the side. If it popped, just put it back with a screw driver. If that is not the issue, then it it could be a bigger issue.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

Maytag317
  • 1136 Answers

SOURCE: maytag electric oven - MER5770AAQ. lower heating element not work

Hi, Unplug the oven and remove the element to test it. Check the element and see if there is continuity. If the element is open, replace it. It can be bad even tho it doesn't appear bad.

I hope this helps you.

Vic

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: high limit switch trips and needs re-set

After grilling or cooking at higher temps leave the oven light on so the cooling fan continues to run for approx 1/4 hour, or whatever setting will keep the fan running...

Posted on Apr 22, 2010

vetteman3002
  • 2299 Answers

SOURCE: I have a maytag mer5755qab

It is possible that when the element blew that the control board blew and is what caused the element to blow the chunk out of it. You might want to check for any voltage coming from the control board.

Posted on Nov 30, 2010

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test with a multi meter on each end of the wire prong connector, place each end of ur meter prong on both 1 and 2 of the connectors, and test for continuity ohms or a close circuit. have ur meter on a low ohms setting as the level of ohms is low. if it shows an open circuit or no continuity, its defective. Infinity is the meter not showing anything like a number 1 and not moving?

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Hello, welcome to FixYa.

It sounds like the hi-limit safety thermostat may be tripped, that is the component that typically trips/activates during a self clean on many wall ovens & ranges.
Unfortunately you'll need to pull the oven from the cabinet to gain access to it.


If you pull/slide the unit away from the wall and unplug it you can replace the hi-limit...you will likely require two people or if you have a couple of "saw horses" or the like to slide it onto.

It will be a non-reset type hi-limit (based on the model number you posted) so needs to be replaced as I mentioned, doing so will get you back up and cooking in no time.

**Unplug or turn off the breaker of the wall oven first of course...safety first**

Once you remove the panel you will need to look for a switch/thermostat which looks like this...


macmarkus_930.jpg

Replacement part number is typically $30-$40US. # 3879224 and available on-line at vendors such as "appliancepartspros.com" "repairclinic.com" or "searspartsdirect,com" to name a few.


Let me know how you make out. Good luck. I'll watch for your reply and if you need anything further I'll be glad to help in any manner I can.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

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This problem only means that you have a bad ERC that needs replacement. You may order the part from Sears, call them at 1-800-252-1698. Just get your model number ready and they'll help you get the new ERC. Once delivered, it goes with the instruction on how you will replace.

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On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
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3.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

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Two things sharyn, first check the breakers. It is possible that one of two that control the stove tripped...they are in tandem. Shut them off and back on. If no fix: You'll have to remove and test the element. (if more than one element is involved here...it might be the thermostat) Breakers off, pull the element out and have someone take an ohm meter and test the unit. Still no good? Then it will be the thermostat or relay. Let me know what you find.

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You are right, it could be a thermostat or a heater problem. You should check that the heater element receive power. In case it receive power,the heater element should be replaced. In case it doesn't receive power, the problem is with the thermostat. In any case, check as well that all wires connected to the thermostat and the heater are in place. Good luck.

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