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Jo: Unplug the saw. Lay the saw on it's side so the chain and bar are up (lay it on 4X4 blocks or something similar so the motor housing doesn't make the saw rock back and forth) Loosen the two 1/2 or 9/16 nuts... don't take them off, just loosen them a turn or two. Look toward the saw where the bar comes out (the front of the housing where the blade comes out). You will see a small screw head. Turn the screw clockwise (as if you were tightening it) As you turn that screw, the chain will tighten. Put on some gloves and pull the chain around the bar (as if the saw was running, but you are the motor). The chain should move with a little resistance. Pinch the chain at the top-middle of the bar and pull the chain up away from the bar. the chain should pull away from the bar no more than 1/16 to 1/8 inch. If you look carefully between the bar and the chain, you'll see the dogs that run in the groove in the outside circumference of the bar. None of the dogs should be fully exposed when you pull up on the chain (in other words, None of the dogs should come completely out of the bar's chain groove when you pull up on the chain. Now, tighten the two nuts on the back of the bar. Snug them down good... if the bar slips on those two nuts, the chain will come off while you are cutting.
It is running lean, they always need to run a little on the rich side free running, once the engine is loaded it will then need the excess fuel, it runs ok without the bar and chain because there is no load, start by replacing the fuel filter in the fuel tank, check the fuel hose up to the carb for signs of fuel leakage, replace if reqired, if the carb has standard adjuster screws, increase the H screw by 1/4 turn out ( anto clockwise ) this will richen the mixture.
If your chain has recently jumped off the bar while running, your chain may have "burs" on the drive links (part of the chain that rides in the bar groove). These burs will make the chain rub the inside of the rails and thus bind the chain in the groove. You can file these off with a flat file if there aren't very many, but you may need to just replace the chain. You can find files, bars, chains & sprockets for your saw at PartsBuggy.com.
Overheating the chain/bar is usually caused by insufficient oil getting to the chain, but can be caused by the chain being too tight to begin with (you should be able to turn the chain by hand), grit in the chain groove, or a poorly sharpened chain. The saw has an oil volume adjustment screw on the lower part of the case near the chain return area. Turning it CCW should increase oil flow. Oil volume can be judged by running the saw tip at speed near some cardboard for a moment--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Chain sharpening condition can be judged by the sawdust residue coming from the cut--if a powder-like material, the teeth are not sharp or are improperly filed. You should not have to bear down excessively on the saw to make it cut quickly. Hope some of this helps!
Set the chain brake to off, then remove the fasteners on the right side cover where the chain drives from. This will release the bar which will slide back toward the engine and allow the chain to be removed. Note the direction of the cutting edge of the teeth. Clean everything including the two small oil passages that run from the large holes in the bar out to the chain groove on each edge of the bar. When refitting a new chain, back off on the chain adjustment screw (CCW) a few turns to allow the cover to fit to the bar properly. Fit the chain over the clutch sprocket, then insert the bar to the engine. Work the chain over the bar, then pull the bar outward to tighten the chain. Install the cover and the fasteners finger tight. Make sure the cover fits the bar properly. Tighten the chain adjuster CW so that the chain pulls up to the lower bar edge, but not so tight that you can't turn the chain by hand. Tighten the cover fasteners, then recheck the chain tension. The lower run of chain should be cutting as the chain moves toward the engine. Check the chain oiling by running the saw at speed with the bar tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil after several moments. Hope this helps!
The humming is the motor trying to turn. Remove the drive end cover from the bar and chain--back off the chain adjustment CCW several turns. If the saw has a chain brake, release it. When the cover is loose, remove the bar and chain, inspect the entire mechanism for any damage--particularly the chain itself. Run the motor without the bar and chain, and check for oil oozing out of the side port in the motor case where the bar fits. To reassemble, fit the bar in place after cleaning the small oil passages in the drive end, then fit chain over the sprocket. Pull the bar outwards to tighten the chain, then fit the cover and fasteners finger tight. Adjust the lower run of chain up to the bar (the lower run of teeth cut toward you), but not so tight that you can turn the chain by hand. Tighten the fasteners and recheck chain tension. Chain saws don't seem to like cutting hedges and other small branch, but tough bushes and the like. Make sure the chain teeth are properly sharpened. Hope this helps!
Remove the bar and chain from the saw. Take these parts to a saw servicing dealer who can match the bar and chain. Be sure to clean the area where the bar mounts. Run the saw for a few moments--the oil port in the side of the case should ooze out oil. Install the bar first, then thread the chain onto the sprocket, then work it over the bar. Pull the bar out until the chain is fairly tight, then fit the cover, but leave the mounting nut(s) finger tight. Turn the chain adjuster until the chain doesn't droop from the bar, but still be able to turn the chain by hand. Tight the mounting nut(s) and recheck tension. Run the saw at full speed with the tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the cardboard. Hope this helps!
Fuel ratio is 40:1 using modern chain saw oil--not any petroleum base oil like boat motor oil. Be sure to premix fuel and oil in it's own container and to shake vigorously just before filling the saw each time. To remove the chain, loosen the chain adjustment screw several turns CCW, release the chain brake, and remove the side nuts that hold the rear chain cover. The cover will just pull off, then the bar can be pulled rearward somewhat and the chain worked off of the bar. Remove the bar by pulling it outward. Clean the entire area where the bar and chain fit to the engine, then clean the bar oil ports that run from the larger holes out to the chain groove on each side of the bar. Start the engine with bar/chain removed--oil should ooze out of the side port where the bar fits to. If ok, and the chain appears to be relatively unworn, refit everything in the reverse order of removal, making sure that the chain teeth cut toward you on the bottom run, and the chain adjustment tang drops into one of the large oil holes when replacing the cover. Tighten the mounting nuts only finger tight, and adjust the chain screw CW until the chain ceases to droop from the lower side of the bar, yet not so tight that it can't be turned by hand. Tighten the mounting nuts firmly and recheck the chain tension. If ok, and the engine runs well, start the machine and hold the bar tip near some cardboard while running at speed for several moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil onto the cardboard. Use common chain/bar oil available from home centers, hardware stores and saw dealers. Make sure the chain is properly file sharpened. Hope this helps!
There are a couple of reason the saw blade will not turn.
- Make sure you have bar and chain oil in saw.
-Make sure oil is running on the saw blade and chain.
-Make sure the clutch is not stuck.
- Make sure the bar sprocket is not frozen.
-The safety kick back guard needs to be re-set.
-Shut off saw. Push and pull guard.
Please let me know what you find.
The fuel filter is in the gas tank. You need a small stiff wire or something small with a hook on it. There is a fuel line that runs to the bottom of the gas tank. The fuel filter is on the bottom of it. You need to pull that fuel line out of the gas tank to change it. Be careful not to damage the fuel line while trying to fish it out of the tank. It's hard to replace. The air filter should just be under the cover for the carburetor.
You need to set the mixtures for the carburetor. There is usually a rubber grommet on the side of the housing near the carburetor. You will find a Low and High adjustment screw. The default setting for the H and L carburetor jet is usually to turn them in all the way till they stop and back them out a turn and a half. You should start the chainsaw and warm it up untill it will run without choking. Make sure that the air filter is cleaned. Start by turning the low adjustment screw out. You will notice that the rpms should start increasing. keep turning it out until the rpms start to drop then turn it back in a quarter of a turn from where it idled at the fastest rpm. At this point you may need to adjust the idle adjustment till the saw idles at a good speed but not fast enough that the chain turns. You may need to readjust the idle speed so the chain doesn't turn during idle. To set the high adjustment screw will require that you run the saw at max RPM. It may be a good idea to get someone to hold the saw so the bar doesn't hit anything while you're doing this. Hold the throttle trigger all the way down and then turn the high adjustment screw in and out until you find maximum rpm. Turn the screw back in a quarter turn. Your saw is now tuned for the elevation you're currently at.
For chain oiler:
Remove the housing that covers that bar and sprocket. There are two plates on each side of the bar that set over the studs.They may be identical or slightly different depending on the saw but at least one of them will have a hole in it for the oiler. If you remove the bar and both plates you will see the oiler hole on the saw housing. This oiler injects oil through the plate and into a small hole in the bar where the chain picks it up and carries it around the saw. If this hole becomes plugged with sawdust it will keep your saw from oiling the bar proplerly. This hole should be cleaned out periodically. It's not a bad idea to remove the whole chain periodically and clean the chain guide all the way around the bar and get any sawdust buildup out so the oil can flow better.
Whether you learn to do it by hand or buy a saw sharpening attachment keeping a sharp chain is #1 in my book for keeping your saw running properly. The more pressure you have to exert to cut makes the saw run hotter, the bar wears out faster, the chain wears out faster and the sprocket wears out fast plus it's just plain harder on you to run the saw. In my timber cutting days I would file my chain every time I filled the saw with gas. Here is a helpful video for sharpening a saw. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkSYov5jcO0