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Replacing stove's heating element switch on GE Oven/Range

How do I remove the control panel from my GE model J HP 56 OVAAD over/under oven and stove combination so I can replace one of the stove's on/off temperature control switches?

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: GE Profile Spectra XL 44 gas oven

If you can smell the gas when you turn on the oven, it may be on a separate igniter that has gone bad. I would check this first. If you are not getting gas to the oven, there is possibly an issue with the supply line.

Posted on Sep 28, 2007

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SOURCE: oven elements dont work / stove top works fine

Repair person also shut the power off before replacing the fuse...

Posted on Dec 20, 2007

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Replaced element, oven is still not heating

You may still have a bad Electronic Range Control (ERC). This is your timer that you mentioned. The oven is controlled by the ERC. There is a separate circuit for the BROIL and BAKE functions. Does the BROIL element still work? Or, are both elements not working? You may want to double check all your connections from the element to the control board as well. Sometimes the wire lugs can oxidize and not make good contact. Check the ERC to see if there any obvious signs of failure. Burned components are common. These boards are considered "non-serviceable" and usually requires replacing. You can attempt component-level troubleshooting if you are savvy with electronics. There's usually a basic block diagram that comes with your appliance mounted somewhere inside the operator console or on the back panel of the range.

The ERC for your range would cost in the neighborhood of about $100 - $140 to replace. Prices will vary between model versions and will also depend on where you get it. It is a very simple repair job if you wish to pursue this yourself. I can give you step-by-step instructions if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.

PS The reason all your surface elements still work is because they are controlled by infinite switches behind the control knobs. There is a separate switch for EACH burner.

Posted on Feb 20, 2008

Techsim
  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: Oven heat

There is a bottom hidden element that is the main element used for baking and cleaning. If its not heating then the element has gone bad and needs replacing. If you have a volt meter then you can confirm this by checking the voltage between the two terminals sticking out of the rear of the range. There should be 240vac across the two. If you have that then you need a new element if you don't then you need a new control board.

Posted on Nov 03, 2008

MNTECH
  • 1543 Answers

SOURCE: My broiler works - but the oven does not - GE Dual Fuel range

Thanks for providing the full model number, which allows us to look up part numbers and see exploded views of your product.
Most likely the bake ignitor is bad (even if it still glows, it may not draw enough amperage to allow the gas safety valve to open). One way you can test this on your model is to swap out the broil ignitor for the bake ignitor, as they are the same part number on your model. (part number WB13T10045) The broiler is normally used much less than the oven, so the part does not fail very often on the broiler. You will have to take the cover off the floor of the oven, then the flame spreader, to reach the burner area. The ignitor is the rectangular part at the back, on the side of the burner. (only two wires to deal with) (By the way, for future reference, your model number ends is SS, as in stainless steel, not a 55)

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

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Ge model jb400d oven will not heat up


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What's the equivalent model no. of GE oven with Model no. GRSL3640ZWW-3


If the elements are not heating ,there are some explanations
the thermostat for the oven is not working ( most probable)
the power to the elements is not switching on--- oven switch or a fuse is blown in the system or power board out side
won't be the power board if the rest of the stove is working
have an electrician check out the system

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I have an electric stovetop and did a self cleaning it would not unlock so i turned off breaker and was able to unlock when i did the baking element was so brittle that it snapped and now all the burn


Ok,... First, and foremost, stop using the self clean. It takes the temperature up to 900 deg F, and creates all sorts of other problems with the lock motor and the walls and the bake/broil elements. Use a Low odor Easy-off spray cleaner to clean your oven from now-on, please.

Now, the bake element needs to be replaced. If you have the model number (found on the body of the Range behind the lower drawer, if you pull it out) I can look-up the manufacturer's suggested part to be replaced. You may also need to replace the broil element, but that usually is the last element to burn-out as most people don't use the broil function of an oven.

You will have to pull the range away from the wall, and unplug it before you attempt to replace any parts. No need to have 240 VAC/30 Amps running through your body. There are several black 1/4" screws that secure the back panel on the oven section to the body (about 6 to 8) and they will have to be removed to pull and replace the wires on the oven bake and/or broil elements. You will also have to go to the oven door (on the front of the range) open it, and remove the two 1/4" screws that secure each element to the body before you can change-out the element(s). The most popular bake elements for GE Ovens are part #WB44K10005 and/or WB44T10010, but there are other Bake elements. Will need the model of your Range to ID the correct element and the cost.

Now as for the rest of the burners on the stovetop not working, they are usually independent from the oven functions, which are wired into the controller in the center of the range control console, but there are a couple of GE models that wired the stove burners into the oven timer/controller. If this is the case, then you may also need to replace the oven timer/controller.

If the stove elements are independent and are only wired to the Infinite switches that control the front left, rear left, front right, rear right burners, than the problem is either with the actual radiant heat burner elements or the infinite switches that independently control each burner. I would still need a model number for the Range to help you more with this.

Hope this is of some help.

Dave

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Order GE range/stove/oven parts today. We ship GE range/stove/oven parts on time or your order is free. Return any GE range/stove/oven part for any reason for one full year. Customer service for GE range/stove/oven parts is available 7 days a week. More than one million parts available. We stock the GE range/stove/oven parts you need for immediate shipment. We have more than 200,000 high-resolution part photos.

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You probably have a bad heating element. Trip the breaker and make sure that all power is removed from the stove/oven. Remove the element, and test it for continuity. If it tests open, obtain a replacement from an appliance parts supply house. If it tests good, you should suspect either a bad switch or thermostat.
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Replaced bake element in JBP90SFSS and now oven not working properly


Sometimes when an element opens, there is significant current to cause the control relays to arc and weld together causing them to act as a closed switch no matter what state the control tells them to be in. This will have to be checked at the control board using a multimeter.

There is significant voltage and current involved in this circuit and testing is best left to a professional.

The back of the range will have to be removed to check the circuit for faults.

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2 Answers

Replaced element, oven is still not heating


You may still have a bad Electronic Range Control (ERC). This is your timer that you mentioned. The oven is controlled by the ERC. There is a separate circuit for the BROIL and BAKE functions. Does the BROIL element still work? Or, are both elements not working? You may want to double check all your connections from the element to the control board as well. Sometimes the wire lugs can oxidize and not make good contact. Check the ERC to see if there any obvious signs of failure. Burned components are common. These boards are considered "non-serviceable" and usually requires replacing. You can attempt component-level troubleshooting if you are savvy with electronics. There's usually a basic block diagram that comes with your appliance mounted somewhere inside the operator console or on the back panel of the range.

The ERC for your range would cost in the neighborhood of about $100 - $140 to replace. Prices will vary between model versions and will also depend on where you get it. It is a very simple repair job if you wish to pursue this yourself. I can give you step-by-step instructions if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.

PS The reason all your surface elements still work is because they are controlled by infinite switches behind the control knobs. There is a separate switch for EACH burner.

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Oven elements dont work / stove top works fine


I just had a repairman fix my Kitchenaid 507KERCYAL0 electric range and oven. The problem was a $4.00 fuse. I didn't see exactly what he did but he accessed the fuse from the rear - had to pull out the range and I think remove a panel. Hopefully this helps and saves you $$. I ended up paying $90 to fix a $4 problem

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