I have bought a house with an Inglis Royal 100 clothes dryer in it. I am not sure which of the 5 temp settings is the high heat. From left to right it goes from yellow to brown to red. I can't find the manual on line - Inglis must be under some other company's umbrella. Any help you can give me would be appreciated. Margaret [email protected]

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Inglis Washer Knobs ' Replacement Parts & Accessories ...

www.partselect.ca > Inglis-Washer-Knobs

Control knob lets you control cycle settings. Remove the knob by pulling it straight off its post. Fixes these symptoms. No Symptoms for this part. Missing: 100 ‎lA48500

Inglis Washer Parts ' Inglis Washer Repair Parts - PartSelect.ca

www.partselect.ca > Inglis-Washer-Parts

The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed. This part includes the grounding wire. Fixes these symptoms Missing: lA48500 ‎control

Inglis Washing Machine Knob, Dial & Button Replacement ...

www.repairclinic.com > Shop-For-Parts > Inglis-Washi...

Start doing it yourself with the confidence that comes with 100+ years of experience. We've got millions of parts, hundreds of brands, and thousands of step-by-step ... Missing: Royal ‎lA48500

Troubleshooting - Inglis Home Appliances

inglis.ca > Customer Care

-; Turn the Cycle Control knob to the right slightly and pull to start. Are the water inlet valve screens clogged? Are both the hot and cold water faucets turned on? Is ...

Washer Manual and knob

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/77205/Inglis-Washer.html?page=10#manual

..

Check that the heating element is working. Then check the exhaust flue of dryer to make sure that it is not clogged. If it is the clothing will stay damp and the room housing the dryer will get hot and muggy.

the first thing to check is the house wiring.if you do not have a volt -ohm meter get one and learn how to use it! if not get someone who can.you could have a bad fuse,breaker thermal fuse on the dryer ,thermostat, timer ,or motor switch, or a bad wirer always check voltage first.check where cord is connected at dryer.3 terminals check from middle to left 120v. middle to right 120v. left to right 240v.if you don't get them dryer is o. k.

What is the model number of your unit?

Ain't no moisture sensor. This is is not an electronic sensing machine. It uses another method to determine dryness. An orange wire connects to the base of the heating element. The timer motor is driven by power from it in auto dry. The timer motor is VERY slow. Slower than most dryer timer motors.As the clothes get dryer the heat is not needed so the element is turned off by the control thermostat which is mounted next to the skinny white fuse on the blower housing. This allows for the turtle like motor on the timer to advance. Once the clothes get to the point of dryness the heater stays off way longer and the timer motor advances on over to the cool down and carry on over to the end of cycle. So the clothes won't always be dry due to factors like lint buildup in the blower housing, venting to outside and so forth. having said that my mom bought a brand new Kenmore dryer and I set it on 55 minutes timed drying. At the end of that them clothes is still damp. I then set it to auto dry high heat and that usually gets em dry. I think the main probo with this dryer is the thermostat ain't set as high as older models to keep the heat at a moderate temp so that the limits won't blow on models in apts and such. Just a theory.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

The way to visually see if the belt has broken or not is to 1) unplug the dryer. 2) Remove the lint screen on the top of the dryer. 3) take the two phillips head screws out where the lint trap is. 4) with a flat head screwdriver pop the top of the dryer up by sliding the driver inbetween the top and front of the dryer and pry upwards a little. 5) You'll now see the drum, if the belt is not around it its broken, and if it's visible try to lift it. If it taught, its good. IF THE BELT IS BROKEN OR LOOSE CONTINUE TO NEXT STEPS 6) on the left and right upper inner sides of the dryer you will find two screws, one on each side, remove these and the front should be easlily remove. 7) once off you'll be able to easily see the motor, the belts idler pulley, and everything else.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Front and real door felts needs to be replaced

there either is a rust mark on the tub or under the agitator oil could be leaking out or metal is rotting where the tranny shaft comes up under the agitator but like you said it's old and parts are starting to rust out and decay

Could be your thermostats or a faulty heating element

Remove the vent from the back of the dryer and see what the temps are. The cycling (or operating) thermostat is on the blower housing and opens more than 100* lower than the 266 you are reading. That, combined with the long dry times indicates an airflow issue. Check your lint screen....fabric sheet and lint can combine to coat and restrict air flow through it. Also check down in the blower housing with the lint screen removed. You'll see lint build up by looking down the slot with a flashlight. If it's restricted, so is the blower wheel and the blower housing. Also make sure the flap, or lovers at the vent hood outside are opening fully. Remove any accumilation of lint from there.

The high limit control is just that........If you cycling thermostat has failed, or does not open because there is no airflow, the limit control opens as a safety. On a normally operating dryer, the high limit control will never open.

The neptune dryer is designed to move more air than a regular dryer due to the higher capacity load it get's from the neptune washer. That is the case with most front load laundry pairs.