Central heating radiator valve fitting

Does the non working radiator get warm at bottom of rad?, or do the pipes leading o it get warm?. If this is the case the rad is probably in need of leeding, to blee a radiator look at the ends of the radiator at the top. Older models will have a square protrusion that you need to turn, newer ones tend to have a slotted screw. Undo this until you hear a hissing sound, this is the air coming out, be careful though as the radiator fills back up with water you will need to be ready to close these down. Note the heating is best on when you do this, and combi boilers will need topping up so that the presure is between 1 and 2 atm. Hope this helps.

I'm assuming your saying you have hot water heat and you're having trouble with the broiler or stoppage in the pipes leading from the boiler to your wall radiators. Every household boiler I've seen has been very old and isn't worth replacing. If you decide to replace it, you will be replacing more than just the boiler. You'll be replacing many copper lines as well. The solution is usually changing to some alternative style heating such as electric baseboard with individual thermostats.

The sprayer should have a threaded fitting on the end of the hose. Unscrew old one from valve, pull hose out the top, feed new hose back down into cabinet and screw in to where old hose was attached.

If valve is dripping, buy garden hose cap and screw onto valve.
Whole valve unscrews counterclockwise.
If valve is plastic, expect it to break off.
If valve is brass, use cheater bar on your pipe wrench.
I don't know that serial number or part number, but drain valves are standard 3/4" pipe thread.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-water-heater-drain-valve.html

Drain valve can be rusted in place and impossible to remove without draining tank and putting water heater on it's side.
Install new water heater so drain valve is accessible, and buy new water heater with brass valve instead of plastic.

If the valve is the round shaped one with two hoses going into it .that is the vacum breaker.Most likely a 3/4" you can get these at plumbing supply try just unscrewing the guts clean with delimer and unscrew the guts from the new one and screw them in.unplumbing the old vacum breaker can be tricky.the plastic fitting some times break.I use a 1/2" wire brush for plumbing to clean the vacum breaker houing.with delimer remember take your time and always back up your plumbing fittins with another wrench as not to put any stress anywhere else.

try bleeding the radiators in the order of downstairs first and then the upstairs and try to bleed them in the order they fill, trapped air can take a while to escape, a good sign on a radiator is the bottoms being warm where the tops( where the air is trapped) stays cooler, a sure sign to which radiator needs bleedin, hope this helps, colin

If you Bled air out, were you able to hear the water take its place? If not and you have a zone valve installed, see if you can manually override the valve to get water flowing again

Sir,
Check out the water dispenser is working good condition or not. also check the value. Also the dual water valve did indeed fix the problem of no water in the icemaker. It was very easy to change out. First unplug the refrigerator, turn off the water to the icemaker and then pull out the refrigerator for easy access. Have a small pan ready to catch the water in the tubes. The water valve on my refrigerator was located at the right rear and was screwed via a bracket to a frame member. Remove the fiber or cardboard cover which is about 4'x1' to get to the valve. It might be a good idea to take a digital picture now of the old water valve showing the orientation of the plastic tubes; when you replace it the tubes should have the same orientation so you have no worry about a kink.
Remove the copper tubing from the valve with a half inch wrench, then unscrew and remove the two plastic tubes. Drain the tubes in the small pan. Mark the tubes (right and left) so you know where they go on the new valve. Unscrew the entire valve from the frame (two screws) and pull the valve out carefully. Remove the two electric plugs from the old water valve and mark them left and right.

The copper tubing goes back in the new valve but do not use the old compression washer. I cut the tubing off about one inch because the old compression washer would not come off. I also used the new half inch copper nut which came in the kit instead of using the original. Slide the copper nut up the copper tube, slide on the compression washer, then slide the copper tubing down inside the fitting on the new water valve. Screw the copper nut securely with a half inch open end wrench. The copper tube probably was secured to the back of the refrigerator with a bracket so remember to put it back into the bracket; this prevents the tube from getting bent when you are moving the refrigerator back and forth.

Next screw the original plastic tubes (left and right) onto the proper fitting of the new water valve. Be careful not to screw them too tightly; do not use a wrench.

Then plug the electrical connections back into the new water valve, left and right. Carefully push everything back inside the bottom of the refrigerator and screw it back to the frame. Take a look at your picture and make sure the tubes are oriented properly. That's it. Turn the water back on the copper feed tube, plug it in, and make sure nothing leaks.

Replace the fiberboard and push the refrigerator back to the wall. If the icemaker does not start immediately, put about 1/2 cup of water in the tray and let it restart the cycle. It will freeze the water, eject the cubes, and then magically water will flow back into the itray.
Thanks Good Luck

Your boiler is overdue for a service.

Combi boilers are unlike regular boilers in that they have quite a few moving parts, it's vital that these are serviced annually if you want the boiler to remain reliable and to avoid expensive failures.

In your case, the diverter valve has most likely failed. Normally, when the heating is on this senses when there's a demand for hot water and temporarily diverts the primary hot water circuit to feed the domestic hot water heat exchanger. When the demand for hot water ceases the primary hot water circuit is diverted back to the central heating heat exchanger. The valve has a number of moving parts including a rubber diaphragm which can wear out and split and moving shafts which can seize.

When the valve fails it can leak and also can divert hot water to the central heating heat exchanger when hot water is used. The reason that only the highest radiators in the system are affected is probably because the failed valve does not necessarily cause the central heating pump to activate and circulate the hot water throughout the system (it does on some boilers though). If hot water is introduced into a cold heating system it will rise via convection to the highest points in the system like an old fashioned gravity circulation system which was unpumped.

Call a heating engineer out as soon as possible; I'm not going to advise how to do the repair yourself as gas appliances MUST be serviced by qualified persons only for reasons of safety. If you're lucky then the valve simply needs cleaning up and a few new diaphragms plus other minor seals and rings. If it's gone too far then the valve and possibly the manifold it's attached to will need to be replaced.

In the UK the part alone typically costs between £100 to £200 depending on whether it's just the valve or the manifold as well. The diaphragm kit typically costs up to around £15 and is routinely fitted when the boiler is annually serviced, and a new valve will already have new diaphragms fitted. For a routine service expect to pay for up to two hours labour (many can be done in one hour), but if the valve/manifold have failed it will be longer as one failure often causes other parts to need further inspection/repair.

I hope that I've helped you today, if so please return the favour by rating my answer.

the problem is the diverter valve unit, source a corgi engineer to fit new one, cost for valve approx 80 quid +fitting

Kindly

Richie