Question about Mountain Shimano Deore Bicycle Shifter/brake Lever Part 100

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The chain momentarily locks up

When the chain is on the middle front cog it gets snagged on to the outside cog and momentarily locks up the chain. How can I resolve this?

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This is usually caused by a front deraleur located too close to the outside perimeter of the outside cog. Without looking at it, I would venture to say that by adjusting the deraleur height a little higher (not much), you might get rid of this problem.

Posted on Nov 25, 2009

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I just cant get used to changing gears,why is there two levers, one on each side of the handle bar.I end up with the chain coming off frequently.


Angie, Have patience. It will come to you. There are two levers, because there are two places where the gears change - in the front (by the pedals) and on the back wheel. You might find it easier to just use one lever. Do this--- have someone help you hold the bike so that the back wheel is off the ground. Turn the pedals on the bike and work one shift lever at a time so that you can see which lever is for the front vs. the rear. If you have three gears in the front (the correct name is chain-rings) then leave the front one so that the chain is on the middle chain ring. If there are two, then select the larger one. Now shift the back one (the gears back there are called cogs). You might have 5,6,7 or even 8 cogs back there. Practice shifting the back cogs to see what is happening. If you find that the chain comes off, even when you leave the front on on the middle chain ring, you need an adjustment. Good luck! Al K

Aug 12, 2011 | Shimano Cycling

1 Answer

I'm new to multi gear bikes..whats the reason for the 6 gear positions on the right and 3 gear positions on the left hand side


Bicycles have two sets of gears (front and back). The 6 position control slides the chain between the 6 sprockets (cogs) on the back. The 3 gears are for the front set of cogs. Between the two sets of sprockets, you get 18 (theoretical) different rates of chain movement per turn of the pedals. In fact some of the settings overlap. (However some of these should not be used. Do not use the settings that pull the chain to the furthest inside of one derailleur and the furthest outside of the other. This diagonal between the biggest and biggest sprockets (or smallest to smallest) puts extra strain on the chain.) The back derailleur is in the lowest gear when on the biggest sprocker. The front low gear is on the smallest cog. The highest gear possible is on the smallest rear cog and the largest front cog.

By planning the shifts in gears, you can maintain the same speed and cadence (rate of pedalling) on different terrains. (For going up a hill, use a lower gear than on flat terrain. However don't go to low or the bike may not balance well.) To shift through a large range of gears, you must be pedalling and then move the rear derailleur control followed by the front derailleur then the back again. (For faster shifts to a low speed, you can shift the front derailleur first but that can stress the system.)

For a guide to using the gears: http://www.southcoastbikes.co.uk/articles.asp?article=Gears .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

May 14, 2011 | Huffy Cycling

1 Answer

My chain occasionally comes loose when I hit a bump. How can I make adjustments to prevent the chain from coming loose. I have a Shimano tourr.ey gear mechanism. If I could obtain the instruction manual...


For the wide range of gearing on a MTB, the rear derailleur has to be able to adjust a large amount. If you shift into the smallest front chainwheel and the smallest cog on the rear (position 1), you'll probably see the chain is very loose and the rear derailleur is pointed back horizontally. Conversely, if in the largest front chainwheel and the largest rear cog, the derailleur will be pointed forward (position 2)
Couple things to do: 1) Avoid the gearing combination of the smallest cogs. Instead, use the middle chain ring and a larger cog (you'll have the same net gear ratio). 2) You can remove a link from the chain. A chain tool is about $10.00. You push the pin out through all but the last plate on two links, bend the chain slightly to pop those 2 links out (2 links = a wide link + a narrow link), then put the chain back together. This is only advisable if in position 2 there is some additional travel for the derailleur and in position 1, the derailleur has no additional travel. 3) Make sure your chainrings aren't bent, straighten (use a open-end wrench and gently pull the chain ring back to flat). This isn't likely b/c you don't indicate the chain falls off while shifting. 4). If the chain falls of the inside, screw in about 1/4 turn the inner limit screw on the front deraillleur. If the chain falls off the outside, screw in about 1/4 to 1/2 turn the outer limit screw on the front derailleur.

Mar 02, 2011 | Shimano XTR Hollowtech II Mountain Bike...

1 Answer

Colnago C50 with 11 speed choras group set. When changing up to the big chain ring ready to decend whilst still in one of the largest 2 or 3 rear sprockets the chain...


Is the chain falling off to the outside? if it is you can adjust the "High " limit screw on front derailleur. There are two screws on top of derailleur usaully marked with a L or a H.Shift rear to small cog and front on large ring. Slowly turn screw marked H till you see front derailleur move in. When it starts to rub on chain back off 1/8 of a turn. Run the rear up and down a cuople of gears making sure nothing rubs and adjust accordingly . Same with the front. That should do it! Also when changing to the big ring up front you should try to be on a middle to small cog on the rear so you don't get into a "cross chain" situation. When running on the small ring you should be on large to middle on the back. Hope that helps you out.

Sep 13, 2010 | Colnago Freeship Ferrari Cx-20 Bicycle...

1 Answer

Trek 6500 Shimano deraileur adjustment issues


Derailleur adjustment takes time to master. Try this out:
First, wash your drive train out really thoroughly and use a degreaser (Simple Green works really well) and a chain brush on the derailleur and chain. Rinse it off and let it dry, then relubricate the chain (and ONLY the chain - never lubricate your derailleur). Now flip your bike onto the bars and saddle so you can crank while you shift manually. Use the middle chainring up front to adjust the rear gears. Okay, shift into your highest gear in the back and then release the derailleur cable. Use this opportunity to make certain your "H" setting is good; the derailleur's jockey wheel should be perfectly aligned over the small cog. Now manually push the derailleur to the lowest gear (while pedaling) and set the "L" so the jockey wheel is immediately outside the last cog. crank back to the high gear. Turn the barrel adjuster for the cable tension to its half-way point (figured by unscrewing it all the way and then counting revolutions as you screw it back in). Pull the cable taut and reattach it. Shift into your middle gear (or if it is an even number of gears, pick one of the two middle gears). Use the barrel adjuster to get the jockey wheel exactly over the correct cog. Pedal and shift through the gears. In each gear, back-pedal to make sure the chain is not skipping. You should be able to free-wheel without problem in every gear on a properly adjusted drive train. If the gears are requiring much adjustment on the barrel adjuster, then you may have a bent derailleur hanger. This can be straightened manually without tools if you have a good eye and patience. If it goe that far, come back and repost "bent derailleur hanger".

i hope this helps
-matthew

Oct 28, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

Problem with chain and gears


Wash, degrease and scrub the chain and derailleurs with a good degreaser (like Simple Green). Dry the chain and relubricate it with an appropriate bike chain lubricant (not oil or WD-40). Shift the derailleurs to the smallest chain ring and cog on the cassette (low front gear, high rear gear) and then loosen the cable at the derailleurs, pull the cables taut and reattach them. If the derailleurs still need adjustment, here is a procedure for it:
Flip the bike over (so you can pedal the bike manually while you shift) and shift the front to the middle chain ring. Shift the rear to the highest gear (small cog). Release the cable from the pinch bolt on the derailleur. Adjust the screw marked "H" on the derailleur until the jockey wheel on the derailleur is aligned perfectly over the small cassette cog. Set the cable adjuster on the derailleur to the middle of its range (find this by screwing it all the way in and then count how many revolutions it makes until it screws out completely. Screw it back in one half of the total revolutions). Reattach the cable and shift to the lowest gear (the biggest cog). Over-shift and hold on the shifter, then adjust the "L" screw on the derailleur until the jockey wheel sits just past the last cog. You have to hold the shifter to do this. Now shift into the middle gear (or one of the two middle gears if the bike has an even number of gears) and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster you previously set to the middle of its range. Adjust it so that the derailleur is sitting perfectly over the appropriate gear. Shift up and down the cassette while pedaling and in every gear, reverse pedal (freewheel) to make sure the chain does not hop. Adjust as necessary until all gears are smooth.
Now the front:
Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.
That should be it, unless there is another mechanical problem causing the missed shifts, like a bent derailleur hanger or damaged teeth on the cassette cogs or a bad derailleur. If it is still problematic, come back for further information.

i hope this helps
-matthew

Oct 26, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

Chain coming off fron gear when coasting or trying to pedal backwards? Local bike repair shop indicated that a bearing maybe shot but that they couldn't replace the front gear unit.


Oh, it is too bad you are in the Bronx. i'd have that fixed right quick. There are probably a pair of culprits at work here. One, your derailleurs no doubt need adjustment. Two, your rear derailleur hanger may be bent. These two can both cause the problem. Start with the rear hanger, because that will be easier to see.
Flip the bike onto the bars and saddle and take a look at your rear derailleur. Is it going straight up and down and is it aiming straight with your frame? If it isn't, you have found your problem. The hanger needs to be straightened. This can be done without any tools if you have a good eye. Hold the derailleur by the body and bend it to make the alignment good with the cassette. If this is NOT the problem (but i really think it is) then here is a walk-through on adjusting your derailleurs and hopefully this will solve it.
Here is how to adjust the rear (first):
-Set your front gear to its middle position.
-Shift the rear into the highest gear.
-Disconnect the derailleur cable.
-Screw the barrel adjuster on the shifter (or down tube if it is a road bike) to fully turned in clockwise.
Screw the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur to its halfway point.
-On the back of the rear derailleur you will see two screws. One will be marked "H" and the other "L". These mean high and low. Adjust high to get your jockey wheel on your derailleur perfectly centered over the smallest cog on the cassette. Manually shift by pushing the derailleur (while cranking the pedals) to the largest cog (1st gear) and set this stop on the derailleur "L" where the jockey wheel is over the cog, but past it where it would be touching the outside of the cog if they were side-by-side.
-Pull the derailleur cable taut and re-tighten it.
Shift the rear to the middle gear and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster to center the jockey wheel directly over the cog it should be.
-Now shift up and down the cassette, cranking as you go and in every gear, back-pedal to make sure there is no problem with the gears hopping. If they do, adjust as necessary with the barrel adjuster.
Here are some tips for the front:
-Shift into low gear on the front and rear derailleurs. Make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it is, adjust the screw marked "L" until the chain just clears the derailleur but does not touch it.
-Pull the derailleur cable taut and re-tighten it.
-Now shift the front into the middle gear and while it is still in the low gear in the back, crank to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it does, adjust the tension of the cable with its barrel adjuster.
-Shift the front into high gear and shift the rear to the highest gear, cranking as you shift. If the chain is not rubbing, you are all set.

Sep 16, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

I'm trying to adjust the shimano gearing on my trek bike and am having a little trouble


Front or rear? What is it doing?
Flip the bike over onto the handlebars and saddle and let us fix it.
Here is how to adjust the rear (first):
-Set your front gear to its middle position.
-Shift the rear into the highest gear.
-Disconnect the derailleur cable.
-Screw the barrel adjuster on the shifter (or down tube if it is a road bike) to fully turned in clockwise.
Screw the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur to its halfway point.
-On the back of the rear derailleur you will see two screws. One will be marked "H" and the other "L". These mean high and low. Adjust high to get your jockey wheel on your derailleur perfectly centered over the smallest cog on the cassette. Manually shift by pushing the derailleur (while cranking the pedals) to the largest cog (1st gear) and set this stop on the derailleur "L" where the jockey wheel is over the cog, but past it where it would be touching the outside of the cog if they were side-by-side.
-Pull the derailleur cable taut and re-tighten it.
Shift the rear to the middle gear and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster to center the jockey wheel directly over the cog it should be.
-Now shift up and down the cassette, cranking as you go and in every gear, back-pedal to make sure there is no problem with the gears hopping. If they do, adjust as necessary with the barrel adjuster.
Here are some tips for the front:
-Shift into low gear on the front and rear derailleurs. Make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it is, adjust the screw marked "L" until the chain just clears the derailleur but does not touch it.
-Pull the derailleur cable taut and re-tighten it.
-Now shift the front into the middle gear and while it is still in the low gear in the back, crank to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it does, adjust the tension of the cable with its barrel adjuster.
-Shift the front into high gear and shift the rear to the highest gear, cranking as you shift. If the chain is not rubbing, you are all set.

Sep 02, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

Shifting problems/Tiagra STI Flightdeck


It sounds like the limit screws on your derailleur body are out of adjustment. They are usually small phillips head screws on the body of the front and rear derailleur that limit the travel of the derailleur body on the rear so that the chain cannot get shifted into the spokes or off the smallest cog into the frame. On the front they prevent the chain from shifting off the inside or outside cogs. There are good articles under front and rear derailleur adjustments at this site:http://www.parktool.com/repair/byregion.asp?catid=53 I hope this helps.

Aug 11, 2009 | Cycling

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